Recommend a good commuting bike?

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I'm new to this forum so "Hello" and if I make any mistakes asking questions/with language and formats then please be patient. I'll learn.

Have just started cycling to work (1st week) after a looonngg absence from cycling (about 10 years). I'm currently using a Saracen AWOL 04 which, as I'm discovering, is OK for those family rides but next to useless for commuting. I'm pedalling like hell on the flat and topping out at around 18-19mph.

Can anyone recommend a bike to change to? Budget would be around £300-400. I've had a quick look around and my instincts are to go for a hard tail bike with front suspension. Given that my leg muscles are seriously out of shape I want something I can grow into and cruise at a reasonable high speed once I'm back in condition (minus beer gut!!). My route is about 8 miles each way, comprising main roads with some country lanes. Oh, I also use the train for the middle part of the commute (in case that's a factor).

Cheers, in advance, for the advice.
Dave
 
Don't bother with suspension for road riding, it only soaks up your power and adds weight. Wider tyres tend to take the sting out of any pumps\holes anyway.

Many people are very happy with the Carrera Subway models as genuinely robust and capable commuter bikes in your budget, depending on the mileage ridden. But then if you have already done the distance on your Saracen, then the Subway will feel like the proverbial speed machine on the roads! :biggrin:
 
OP
OP
SquareDaff

SquareDaff

Über Member
Have looked at the Carrera Subway, Scott Sub 40 and also the Claud Butler Explorer 400. All look like good bikes - similar spec. I'm out of date knowledge wise - so are there any components I should avoid like the plague? Also has anyone any experience of the cycle to work scheme. We run it from time to time at my company (just missed the last offering!). Does it really save you money? I'm a little sceptical!!
 

HJ

Cycling in Scotland
Location
Auld Reekie
For commuting, just about any bike which will take a rack and mudguards will do, I would recommend the you fit slick tyres and buy a good lock as well...
 

chewy

Well-Known Member
Location
Devon
I have just bought a Subway 2....really chuffed with it too, though I did look at a Scott sub too.
 

steveo03

New Member
Many people are very happy with the Carrera Subway models as genuinely robust and capable commuter bikes in your budget, depending on the mileage ridden.

I bought a Subway too. I was apprehensive about Halfords as my work forced us to use them for the Cycle to Work Scheme. They didn't let me down in being useless (another story) but when I finally did get the bike it has turned out great. I got a Pannier rack and some Ortlieb panniers and it is all good :smile:

6 Months in - still fine. Disk brakes have bedded in nicely and gear change and components is still smooth. Would have loved another make, but this has done fine- maybe shop around for a decent Halfords shop though ;)
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
The subway is good and so is the virtuosso if you want a "racing " bike that can take mudguards and rack.

The subway is a good value tough commuter,after you have added mudguards and panniers (if you want them) the only thing you need to change asap is the tyres, i would recommend scwable city jets 26x1.5 at around £12 each.

The virtuosso is a "entry" level road bike with gear shifters by the brake levers and a "compact"chain set with a nice range of gears for commuting and reasonably fast enough to get a good turn of speed out of.



I have both and for the money they are great bikes !I use the subway for the nastier weather as its older and the roady in the nicer weather.

Just a note, halfords C2W can order in pretty much any other brand if you ring the number on the contract/voucher i have been led to believe .
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
Go for a 'Hard Tail'. A bike with a rigid rear end.
The compression of the rear spring absorbs energy.

Mythbuster. Front suspension does NOT absorb energy. Ridden correctly, the front end of the bike should lift when pressure is applied to the pedal.
The rider's mass is resting on the bike and for this instance, can be assumed 'part of it'. To make the front shox compress when a pedal stroke happens, a force from OFF the bike must be applied.

The rear shock and spring compress because the tightening of the chain produces a bending moment in the chainstays.

Think of a drag bike. Rigid rear end, shox forks. If the front forks sunk away any power, they would be dumped tomorrow.

Compare you on your bike with a drag bike. When you pedal hard, there is a resultant force in the rear tyre trying to rotate the whole bike around the rear axle ( as per a wheelstand ).
 

ACS

Legendary Member
+ 1 for Specialized Sirrus. Picked up an 06 Sport 2 years back for £120 done 20 mile a day on it 4 days a week ever since. Replaced some worn componets, chain, cassette, tyres and brake blocks. Would have another no problem
 

g00se

Veteran
Location
Norwich
The rider's mass is resting on the bike and for this instance, can be assumed 'part of it'. To make the front shox compress when a pedal stroke happens, a force from OFF the bike must be applied.

I must be cycling wrong then :smile:

I borrowed my other-half's bike today to take the little one to the nursery - it's a hard-tail.

At one steep point, I got out of the saddle to grind up the hill - and while I was peddling out of the saddle, the bike was bouncing in time to the cadence.

Also, if the rider's mass is assumed to be part of the bike, then wouldn't bunny-hops be impossible (certainly the push through the bars to compress the fork)?

Finally, if this is true - what is the point of front-shock lockouts?
 

Wobblers

Euthermic
Location
Minkowski Space
Go for a 'Hard Tail'. A bike with a rigid rear end.
The compression of the rear spring absorbs energy.

Mythbuster. Front suspension does NOT absorb energy. Ridden correctly, the front end of the bike should lift when pressure is applied to the pedal.
The rider's mass is resting on the bike and for this instance, can be assumed 'part of it'. To make the front shox compress when a pedal stroke happens, a force from OFF the bike must be applied.

The rear shock and spring compress because the tightening of the chain produces a bending moment in the chainstays.

Think of a drag bike. Rigid rear end, shox forks. If the front forks sunk away any power, they would be dumped tomorrow.

Compare you on your bike with a drag bike. When you pedal hard, there is a resultant force in the rear tyre trying to rotate the whole bike around the rear axle ( as per a wheelstand ).

This isn't true. There is a significant difference in the effort required to pedal my GT Avalanche hard tail with the front suspension locked out or not - it's harder with the suspension active. Suspension systems have a shock absorber which is designed to dissipate energy: without this the bike would bounce around on the springs like a pogo stick and be very difficult to control (think of a car with worn shock absorbers). Some of your effort goes into compressing the suspension which is then absorbed by the shock absorber - you don't get it back so it takes more energy to propel your bike.

For road commuting, I'd avoid any bike with suspension.

There's been a lot of good suggestions for commuting bikes. It's a very good idea to make sure your commuting bike can take mudguards - you'll thank them whenever the roads are wet! - and a rack for panniers (which are much more comfortable for carrying luggage than a back pack). Here's another suggestion: get a tourer bike. These already come with mudguards and rack fitted, are faster than hybrids and are designed to carry heavy loads if you have to carry lots of stuff (or the weekly shopping!). A decent second hand Dawes Galaxy or Claude Butler Dalesman would come within your budget.
 
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