Rear wheel swap.

[T4tomo]

a photo or two paints a thousand words

 

[Ajax Bay]

I bought a 15 year old bike which had been ridden a fair way already, and rode an end to end on it, but couldn't understand why I had tyre/mudguards closeness/occasional interference. The wheels were the originals. I eventually realised (after over 10,000k) that the rear wheel was off centre by about 4mm. With 25s tyres it didn't matter but fitting 28s brought the issue into sharper focus.

 

[IanSmithCSE]

Good morning,

If the wheel fits between the rear dropouts but is not central (you can tell this immediately by looking at the distance between the rim and each chainstay) then the wheel needs truing. Unscrew one side of spoke nipples one turn each and then screw the other side's set up one complete turn (per nipple). Repeat till central.

I have a bike with asymmetrical chainstays and the wheel was setup with this mind.

The non drive side is further off an imaginary line drawn backwards from the centre of the bottom bracket than the drive side by close on 10mm.

I would be surprised if the Decathlon bike is the same, but maybe it is, or maybe the bike where the wheel came from has an offset.



Bye

Ian

 

[Ajax Bay]

But, @IanSmithCSE the wheel is centered equally between the inside of each of the chainstays up by the chainstay bridge, surely. As you say "maybe the bike where the wheel came from has an offset" but those frames are few and far between.

 

[rockyroller]

fwiw - had a shop replace my rear wheel last year. wow what an improvement! not only do I "feel" faster, I've clocked myself a solid 1mph faster on average & have reached 29mph on a section that I've only been able to reach 27mph on