Rear Wheel Movement side to side

[DSK]

I have a new ProLite wheelset fitted to my Propel. I have covered about 50 miles on these wheels and the bikes been flawless.

2 days ago, whilst parking the bike up, I was changing the gears on it whilst using 1 foot to spin the crank, 1 hand lifting it off the ground by the seat and 1 hand doing the gears. Whilst the rear wheel was spinning it caught the cycle stand with the spokes. The wheel kept turning so it wasn't bad but did flick the bike slightly in my hand.

The next day on the morning ride, the bike wasn't quite as effortless as it usually is and I noticed an occasional click/click during crank rotation. I thought this may be something developing in the drive train and carried on my ride thinking I'll check it when I get home.

A bit of brake rub evidence on the rear rim. When bracing the bike with your body, if you wiggle the rear tyre at the top, it moves left/right. The occasional click/click noise turns out to be the rim contacting the brake pads on one side, depending on which the wheel moves. The spokes and nipples all seem fine. I removed and refitted the wheel to ensure it hadn't moved in the drop outs. But the movement is still there and I know its not the bearings. Any ideas on what could have happened causing the movement?

 

[wafter]

Sounds to me like the only thing it can be is the spokes, although they'd surely have to be pretty sloppy to cause rim movement. Have you actually checked the tightness / uniformity of of all the nipples to be sure?

 

[Levo-Lon]

If the wheel is true it's not buckled
If the tension on the QR is not right it maybe that.
Lateral movement on the wheel would suggest bearing tension.

Is this wheel cone type or pressed bearing?

 

[DSK]

The spoke nipples all appear to be identical. If you tilt the bike upside down, spin the cranks, the wheel looks to spin true.

I have no idea on bearing type but : this is the wheel.

I did remove the QR, checked to ensure it was correctly seated and it was before refitting.

I have had a bearing tension issue on another bike, which, had similar movement but, that was detected through a clicking noise at the hub area when wiggling the back wheel. This one makes no noise at all in the hub area, only when the rim taps the brake pads.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Do you have another skewer to check with?
Maybe the QR? They can cause this.

If ok
Check

Your wheel is Pressed in bearing ,semi sealed type none adjustable.
Bike upside down
Reset the QR and check for movement? Still have play?
See if you can move the wheel side to side holding it top and bottom ,if it moves then it's most likely a bearing issue, as you say the wheel is true and spokes tight.

If you pop the QR caps out you may be able to feel any play in a bearing ,centre race shouldn't have play.

I've had a bearing fail on a superstar hub after first ride, it happens.

New wheels so you will have a warranty claim so don't worry too much

 

[Racing roadkill]

If the spokes are okay, and the freehub bearings are okay, I’d be very wary that the rim isn’t about to fail. In my experience, just before a rim lets go, there’s sometimes a slight bulge in the rim wall, and that clips the brake pads on the way round. If the rim does fail, it’s normally pretty scary, if it happens when you’re riding.

 

[DSK]

Managed to get it in at 11am today with my local specialist.

I will report back on the fix or issue.

 

[fossyant]

I suspect a worn bearing - if new, then a knackered one. Depends on the wheel.

If the wheel is running true:-

Cup and cone bearings - cones loose
Cartridge bearing - preload not tight or 'worn' - i.e. bearing is loose.
Broken axel.

 

[Gunk]

Have you checked the Q/R skewer? They can come loose.

 

[DSK]

Yes, QR was checked as that was my first thought, thinking it may have just slacked just so to cause this.

Just getting the bike rack on the car and getting ready to take it in. I will ask him to double check my QR even thought he's very methodical and checks all aspects rather thank taking someones word for it.

 

[DSK]

Just got back.

The independent bike shop chap advised there's no play in the hub/bearing, that's all good. The spokes seem really good and can't see anything obvious. He advised that a trip to a serious wheel specialist may be what is needed to check the spoke tensions as if one starts to mess about, you can mess it up.

We've backed the brake pads off a touch so at least I can still ride it. I will order a new identical wheelset to easily switch over to, this will enable me to keep cycling without down time.

I will then look at getting the wheel in question checked/sent back.

 

[fossyant]

Maybe the wheel is quite flexy. If the bearings are 'gone/loose' you will feel a 'clunk' through the rim - that's how I noticed my 1 wheel bearing on my MTB was worn, you could just pick up a slight 'knock' as you wiggled the rim.

 

[DSK]

Maybe the wheel is quite flexy. If the bearings are 'gone/loose' you will feel a 'clunk' through the rim - that's how I noticed my 1 wheel bearing on my MTB was worn, you could just pick up a slight 'knock' as you wiggled the rim.

I've had this before with a Fulcrum Racing 5 wheel and that was sorted with a tweak of the bearing and it also made the click from the hub area.

This is different as any noise is just rim/pad contact. Bike upside down, rim spins straight and no play in the hub. Its a solid rim and not flexy, its all Alu and perhaps amongst perhaps some of the best rims I've come across. It a very odd one but I don't know of any wheel specialists in Nottingham. I have emailed Wiggle and see what they say.

A new identical wheelset has been ordered and I will get that on when it arrives, allowing me to seek a wheel specialist or return the one in question without being off the road.

 

[DSK]

New identical wheel-set purchased myself is on and fitted. It does not show the symptoms of the wheel set that has been removed. Bike feels better when out of the saddle.

Faulty wheel set is boxed and ready for return, if there is a refund/replacement. If not, I will take them to a wheel specialist as my LBS believes its probably spokes loosing their tension or, a very odd bearing issue.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I got a set of ProLite A42W, after contacting Giant, who confirmed that that 2017 Giant Propel should be able to handle 19mm internal rim width wheels shod with 25C tyres

20 front, 24 rear, 42mm rim depth
"With the tremendously robust alloy aero rim, lightweight Bracciano hubs with Japanese EZO bearings to roll smooth and fast, you won't find another wheel like it.
" With the Bracciano, . . . Pro-Lite’s patented spoke braces effectively increase the size of the flange for better power transfer, . . . Specially treated Pro-Lite spokes allow high spoke tensions for class-leading Power Transfer."
https://www.hambini.com/technical-support/bearing-technical-information/
(Concise info on seals and also 'categorises' EZO bearings.)