Raleigh Royal (late 1980s) rebuild - advice for beginner

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Big John

Guru
This may or may not help, assuming you haven't already solved it.

What we do at work (bike charity where I'm a volunteer mechanic) is slip a round headed bolt (one you might find in a brake pad) into the spindle end. It just fits loosely i.e. don't thread it in. Then get the inner part of your crank extractor tool virtually screwed all the way out to give you a bit more room. Then screw the outer part of the tool into the crank arm, finger right to start with (for god's sake don't cross thread it!) Then when you're sure it's threaded properly make sure you tighten it as far into the crank arm as it'll go THEN begin to tighten the inner bit until you feel it hitting the lose bolt you put in. Now you're ready to give it some beans, even using a pipe extender on the spanner if necessary. We work on some seriously old, very poorly maintained bikes and I can't think of an occasion when we didn't get at least the cranks off. I'm not great at written instructions, I'm more used to showing folks and they see for themselves how it's done but if you can understand my ramblings it does work. What's critical though is that you don't cross thread anything otherwise you're in proper trouble. Good luck 👍
 

12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
That bike looks pretty good to me. If you haven't thought of this already...
Take off the cables and cable housing and take them to your LBS. Cable housing is a lot cheaper by the foot. With any luck, when you buy the cable and housing they will cut it for free. Don't forget to buy some cable ends and ferrules for the housing.
There are rust treatment products that create a polymercoating that will protect from future rust pretty well.
I would spring for a cartridge bearing bottom bracket. I've had good luck with Shimano UN55 ones but make sure you get the same length as the old one. I have some, still working fine after tens of thousands of miles.
You can buy many things cheaper on Amazon and Ebay, but I've done well by spending a few bucks more at my LBS who happily will fix something they've sold me or give good advice.
Bikes usually use 8, 10, 12 , 13, 14 , and 15 mm wrenches and 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm Allen wrenches. Sets of cone wrenches are very useful for hub rebuilds. I buy 8 oz tins of auto lithium grease and I grease seaposts, handlebar stems, bolts, bottom bracket threads, and anything else except bottom bracket spindles which I use clean but dry. Ball bearings are cheap so I get new when rebuilding hubs and headsets.
Consider taking phone pics as you go along to make reassembly easier.
Lots of rags and little receptacles are good to have around. Keep the parts for one thing in one little jar or tin and the parts for another in a different tin. Strong magnets can help you with removing or replacing ball bearings which bounce like crazy on hard flooring.
Lastly read the old threads in this section of the forum. Whatever problem you encounter has been addressed before.
BTW, rebuilding/restoring old bikes is addictive as you will see when you learn the same guys on here always have a new project or two..7 days without a little bike refurbish makes one week.
 
OP
OP
dmgraham8

dmgraham8

Active Member
Hullo all,

Can anyone suggest a good value crankset that would be in keeping with this age of Raleigh bike?
 

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12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
What is wrong with the existing crank arms? If getting rid of the small chain ring is the probem just take it off. You can examine the inside of the crankarm where it fits over the spindle. If one has been taken on and off a lot, you will see the flat wear part getting very close to the exterior of the crank arm. If not, that's ok. If there are no cracks in the crank arm and the pedal threading is in good shape they can be polished up and be fine.
 
OP
OP
dmgraham8

dmgraham8

Active Member
That bike looks pretty good to me. If you haven't thought of this already...
Take off the cables and cable housing and take them to your LBS. Cable housing is a lot cheaper by the foot. With any luck, when you buy the cable and housing they will cut it for free. Don't forget to buy some cable ends and ferrules for the housing.
There are rust treatment products that create a polymercoating that will protect from future rust pretty well.
I would spring for a cartridge bearing bottom bracket. I've had good luck with Shimano UN55 ones but make sure you get the same length as the old one. I have some, still working fine after tens of thousands of miles.
You can buy many things cheaper on Amazon and Ebay, but I've done well by spending a few bucks more at my LBS who happily will fix something they've sold me or give good advice.
Bikes usually use 8, 10, 12 , 13, 14 , and 15 mm wrenches and 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm Allen wrenches. Sets of cone wrenches are very useful for hub rebuilds. I buy 8 oz tins of auto lithium grease and I grease seaposts, handlebar stems, bolts, bottom bracket threads, and anything else except bottom bracket spindles which I use clean but dry. Ball bearings are cheap so I get new when rebuilding hubs and headsets.
Consider taking phone pics as you go along to make reassembly easier.
Lots of rags and little receptacles are good to have around. Keep the parts for one thing in one little jar or tin and the parts for another in a different tin. Strong magnets can help you with removing or replacing ball bearings which bounce like crazy on hard flooring.
Lastly read the old threads in this section of the forum. Whatever problem you encounter has been addressed before.
BTW, rebuilding/restoring old bikes is addictive as you will see when you learn the same guys on here always have a new project or two..7 days without a little bike refurbish makes one week.
Thanks very much 12boy. Lots of useful tips! I am almost finished with my first ever rebuild and will post some pictures soon. I decided to keep the crankset....
 
OP
OP
dmgraham8

dmgraham8

Active Member
This may or may not help, assuming you haven't already solved it.

What we do at work (bike charity where I'm a volunteer mechanic) is slip a round headed bolt (one you might find in a brake pad) into the spindle end. It just fits loosely i.e. don't thread it in. Then get the inner part of your crank extractor tool virtually screwed all the way out to give you a bit more room. Then screw the outer part of the tool into the crank arm, finger right to start with (for god's sake don't cross thread it!) Then when you're sure it's threaded properly make sure you tighten it as far into the crank arm as it'll go THEN begin to tighten the inner bit until you feel it hitting the lose bolt you put in. Now you're ready to give it some beans, even using a pipe extender on the spanner if necessary. We work on some seriously old, very poorly maintained bikes and I can't think of an occasion when we didn't get at least the cranks off. I'm not great at written instructions, I'm more used to showing folks and they see for themselves how it's done but if you can understand my ramblings it does work. What's critical though is that you don't cross thread anything otherwise you're in proper trouble. Good luck 👍
Thank you Big John!
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Can anyone suggest a good value crankset that would be in keeping with this age of Raleigh bike?
Came here after you gave me the link.
The SR Sakae chainset looks fine to me, and I think 'entry level' is a bit harsh. Yes, it's not Super Record.
Be aware that the BCD of large and middle ring is odd (118mm) and there are few chainrings around (I have this or very similar on a 1981 bike but a double not a triple).
As bb said, SPA Cycles for an aesthetic replacement (if you feel it's needed) - I have one of the XD2s waiting to go on a 'build'.
As far as wheels, key point is that the rear wheel must have 126mm OLN and you can get a 7sp but better go with a 6sp freewheel (obv). A 14-28 6sp will be easy and cheap to buy and the triple inner gives you the low gearing needed.
Rims and hubs must be 'silver'.
 
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Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Rims and hubs must be 'silver'.

I’ve done a couple with modern black rimmed wheels, they look good.

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