Gravity Aided
Legendary Member
- Location
- Land of Lincoln
The saddle isn't all that high, so I'm guessing comfort on the Maes bars may be an issue. North Road to the rescue!
Puch Alpine bought on ebay.
- Thread starter Brandane
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
BigonaBianchi
Yes I can, Yes I am, Yes I did...Repeat.
- Location
- Iskele TRNC & Mordor UK
some where deep in another hardrive I think I have a pic of me in Normandy at 16 on one of these
OP
OP
Brandane
Legendary Member
- Location
- Costa Clyde
The strip down has been done (apart from stubborn cotter pins preventing crankset and BB removal 
).
The restoration shopping list has been drawn up, and the search for parts begins.
Brakes are beyond repair, so will need new levers and calipers front and rear, plus cables, cable outers, and brake blocks.
5 speed chain and cassette.
Steering head bearings.
Gear cable + outer.
Bar tape.
Tyres x 2.
Bottom bracket.
Short mudguards.
Set of transfers (available on e-bay).
Yellow paint.
Possibly a new crank set depending on what happens with seized cotter pins.
).The restoration shopping list has been drawn up, and the search for parts begins.
Brakes are beyond repair, so will need new levers and calipers front and rear, plus cables, cable outers, and brake blocks.
5 speed chain and cassette.
Steering head bearings.
Gear cable + outer.
Bar tape.
Tyres x 2.
Bottom bracket.
Short mudguards.
Set of transfers (available on e-bay).
Yellow paint.
Possibly a new crank set depending on what happens with seized cotter pins.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
If you are having trouble removing the cotter pins, if you haven't already, get a block of wood and cut a V in it, place under the crank and try again. If you are bashing with the wheels on the ground the tyres will absorb a lot of the energy. When refitting cotter the pin the nut is not supposed to pull the pin up tight so hammer it in all the way before tightening. By the way the five speed block is certainly a freewheel not a cassette.
OP
OP
Brandane
Legendary Member
- Location
- Costa Clyde
Thanks for that, but, errr too late
..... a few swift blows with a hammer and BOTH cotter pins have broken off below the level of where they go into the pedal. If I can find a suitable punch I might be able to get them out; but I have a horrible feeling I might have to end up cutting through the BB axle and junking the whole drivetrain.Can I upgrade it with a modern BB and single speed crankset? I can't see the set-up until I get the old stuff off.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
There's no reason why you can't put a modern BB on with a new crankset. When you get the old axle out it should have the info regarding width etc on it. Might be worth taking the frame et all to your LBS, they should have a special tool for removing stubborn cotter pins.
Gravity Aided
Legendary Member
- Location
- Land of Lincoln
A cotter press, or a small but sturdy clamp, tightened steadily and slowy, may work. On the off side of the clamp, that the pin is being driven toward, put a socket wrench socket bigger than the pin for the pin to drive into, Since you've broken off the pin, to may have to use another bolt to make up for the lost material. This was the only method that took out some cotters from 1974 in my Raleigh Grand Prix . If that doesn't work, warm up the heavy duty electric drill and high carbon bit, and drill out the pin.
Ron-da-Valli
It's a bleedin' miracle!
- Location
- Rorke's Drift
I've seen a Puch Alpine outside Wetherspoons in Rhyl a couple of times. I'll have to catch the owner and see if he'll sell it!
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
Glutton for punishment!
I think Puch used the standard threads so anything should be possible.
Before cutting anything, drill a 1/4" hole through the cotter pins and then try and drive them out. My guess is they'll come out quite easily after the internal pressure has been relieved. Just make sure you drill it straight as the BB axle will snap a drill bit if you catch it.
Before cutting anything, drill a 1/4" hole through the cotter pins and then try and drive them out. My guess is they'll come out quite easily after the internal pressure has been relieved. Just make sure you drill it straight as the BB axle will snap a drill bit if you catch it.
OP
OP
Brandane
Legendary Member
- Location
- Costa Clyde
A bit of hack-sawing did the job! (Thanks for suggestions, but I decided to junk the original crankset and BB in favour of new items anyway):
Almost 40 years has dried out the grease on the BB:
I am now left with this:
The frame is in not bad condition; this is the worst bit of rust:
The steering head cups look fine after a clean up (they will be getting new bearings):
I am thinking along the lines of hand painting it with Hammerite smooth yellow. Haven't decided yet as to whether it is worth buying the replacement transfers (£20) or just mask the existing ones when painting. They do look a bit tatty:
I don't want this bike to be a magnet for any bike thieves, so would rather sacrifice some of the originality for practicality. I would rather have it mechanically sound and running well, than looking good.
Let the re-build commence!
Almost 40 years has dried out the grease on the BB:
I am now left with this:
The frame is in not bad condition; this is the worst bit of rust:
The steering head cups look fine after a clean up (they will be getting new bearings):
I am thinking along the lines of hand painting it with Hammerite smooth yellow. Haven't decided yet as to whether it is worth buying the replacement transfers (£20) or just mask the existing ones when painting. They do look a bit tatty:
I don't want this bike to be a magnet for any bike thieves, so would rather sacrifice some of the originality for practicality. I would rather have it mechanically sound and running well, than looking good.
Let the re-build commence!
Cycleops wise advice came too late, and so will this be. But other readers may be interested for when they are confronted with the same problem. First, soak the cotter pin with WD40 and leave for a few days. Then unscrew the retaining bolt just a bit so that there is only a small gap between it and the crank. Now you can wack the pin and bolt together, easier to hit. When the bolt is down to the crank again, unscrew it another couple of turns and repeat, etc etc. Surprisingly, this doesn't bugger the thread up, in fact it protects it from the hammer. Make sure the cranks are held in the correct relationship (180 degrees apart) throughout the process, or the flat on the axle will turn against the cotter pin.
OP
OP
Brandane
Legendary Member
- Location
- Costa Clyde
Can anyone advise me as to what size of BB I need to buy? The BB measures 68mm width, 36mm diameter. I will be using a single speed chainring in combination with the standard 5 speed freewheel. I have been told the BB required will depend on the chain-line; but is there a standard chain-line for the above set-up? Presumably I want the chain to be running straight in line with the chainring when the chain is on the 3rd sprocket of the freewheel.
The renovation is coming on nicely. The frame has been hand painted with yellow smooth Hammerite, which is quite close to the original colour. I have got a set of new decals ready to go on, then I will give it a coat of spray-on clear lacquer.
The only items I still need to find are the BB, tyres, brake calipers, and brake levers. I have my eye on some suitable items on e-bay.
The renovation is coming on nicely. The frame has been hand painted with yellow smooth Hammerite, which is quite close to the original colour. I have got a set of new decals ready to go on, then I will give it a coat of spray-on clear lacquer.
The only items I still need to find are the BB, tyres, brake calipers, and brake levers. I have my eye on some suitable items on e-bay.
That's a tricky one to work out but at I guess I would try 110 - 112mm.
Ideally you want the chainring to line up with the middle (3rd) sprocket on the block. You could work out the chainline from the centre of the bike to the middle sprocket using the wheel and then try and calculate what width bb you need.
You should be able to find a little adjustment in the hub anyway, it will require swapping spacers/washers around on the axle and re-dishing the wheel. I've even seen blocks screwed on with a spacer on the inside, presumably to correct chain line or possibly move the low gear away from the spokes.
Ideally you want the chainring to line up with the middle (3rd) sprocket on the block. You could work out the chainline from the centre of the bike to the middle sprocket using the wheel and then try and calculate what width bb you need.
You should be able to find a little adjustment in the hub anyway, it will require swapping spacers/washers around on the axle and re-dishing the wheel. I've even seen blocks screwed on with a spacer on the inside, presumably to correct chain line or possibly move the low gear away from the spokes.
RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
Before anything else make sure you know what standard the bb shell is (by examining the cups removed e.g.). If you are unlucky (which might well be the case) it can be French (see the Bottom Bracket Threading section here).
If the rear dropout distance is 120mm (which is likely if it was 5/10 speed originally) then the rear chainline must be very close to 43mm, which is close enough to all current "road" chainset/bb front chainline. There is little point in making front and rear chainlines identical for a bike with derailleur.
What/which single chainset do you have in mind?
