Problem installing SKS Full Length Chromoplastic Mudguards

[Crankarm]

The way you have secured the Secu clip means you cannot easily get the mudguard off the bike without removing the rear wheel. If you secure the Secu clip on the other side of the bridge i.e. on the rear side of the bridge then you can easily slide the mudguard in and out without having to remove the wheel should you need to do so. All you have to do is undo all the fixing points - at the front, the mount for the stays on each drop out and the bolt holding the secure clip on the bridge and it will slide out backwards around the rear wheel. The way you have it you cannot do this as the secure clip is mounted on the front side of the bridge preventing the mudguard sliding back wards or indeed forward beyond the bridge. I doubt whether there is sufficient space between the bridge and the tyre for the Secu clip to pass underneath whilst still attached to the mudguard without removing the wheel. However, maybe your frame does not have the option of mounting the Secu clip on the rear side of the bridge as it does not have a hole going all the way through the rear bridge as most bikes do enabling you to do this. It's difficult to tell from your pics.

Also I would not use a Phillips head screw to secure the lower front of the mudguard to the chain stay bridge but instead a bolt with an Allen key head either flat pan or shallow cap head. The reason being is you WILL have to take the wheel out to undo it. If you instead use a short Allen key M5 bolt with a spring or serrated washer to stop it vibrating loose (do NOT use Threadloc), it is far easier to slip a small Allen key or spanner in between the tyre and mudguard to reach a bolt without removing the wheel. In any case you should remove all bolts and other fittings from your bike frame periodically, clean, refit or replace using anti-seize paste or grease. Bolts can seize in place or break such as rack mounting bolts if they have become bent due to over loading. The are in most cases only M5 bolts. Mudguard bolts won't break but they can seize and break in the frame if they can't be got out easily, so use anti-seize paste or grease which is good bike maintenance.

Just trying to help you by making it easier for you to maintain your bike and to avoid problems in the future.

 

[Distorted Vision]

I'm confused. This is a SKS Secu clip:

I think you you be referring to the chainstay bridge clip. Yes you're right the hole does not go all the way through the bridge on the Giant Roam 0.

 

[Crankarm]

I'm confused. This is a SKS Secu clip:

View attachment 448216

I think you you be referring to the chainstay bridge clip. Yes you're right the hole does not go all the way through the bridge on the Giant Roam 0.

Yes I am referring to the thin metal clamp that you bend around the mudguard to secure it to the bridge. I always thought this was the Secu clip didn't use it's name at first until you did as I forgot. Sorry for this confusion. SKS refer to it in your instructions in image B as the sliding bridge. But definitely not the black plastic clips you have shown above. These are for mounting the stays of the front mudguard to the fork. You mount them to the fork and the mudguard stays press in and out of the them if you want to remove the front mudguard without undoing the bolts on the fork itself. These fittings would remain place on the fork.

So if your Giant Roam frame doesn't have a hole that goes ALL the way through the rear seat stay bridge then you have done as best you can on this one. If it did go all the way through then as I say you could have turned the clip around and mounted it on the rear side. If you do a lot of miles on your bike in all weathers then I would apply some anti seize paste to the bolt threads before you screw them into the frame as without moisture will get in and cause them to corrode in place unless they are stainless steel which they can still do in an aluminium frame. Using anti seize paste or grease is just good practice. Mudguards, fittings and fixings do take a lot of punishment from water, grime and salt so you want to keep them in as good a condition as possible. SKS mudguards are the best on the market. I have used them on all my bikes for many years. Make sure you put the plastic caps on the ends of the stainless steel stays if you can cut them even if you have smoothed them as they can still be sharp and cut in the ankle or shin areas .......

Looks like you are now good to go. No more crud soaked back whilst cycling in the rain.

 

[Distorted Vision]

 

[Ajax Bay]

@Distorted Vision that looks like a cracking job.

you cannot easily get the mudguard off the bike without removing the rear wheel.

Also I would not use a Phillips head screw to secure the lower front of the mudguard to the chain stay bridge but instead a bolt with an Allen key head either flat pan or shallow cap head. The reason being is you WILL have to take the wheel out to undo it. If you instead use a short Allen key M5 bolt with a spring or serrated washer to stop it vibrating loose (do NOT use Threadloc), it is far easier to slip a small Allen key or spanner in between the tyre and mudguard to reach a bolt without removing the wheel.

What is the fetish with wanting to remove a rear mudguard without removing the wheel? Are you looking for a 'special' challenge?
A Phillips head screw is fine securing the guard to the chainstay bridge, and with the wheel out is easy to access. A hex keyed screw would do too, but you're trying to minimise the depth of the fastening (and therefore distance to the tyre. And I would use thread lock on the screws securing the guard to the frame. Once the mudguards are fitted you want the screws to stay tight. What would be the reason for "NOT us[ing] Threadlock"?

 

[alecstilleyedye]

i keep the rear guards from moving by cable tieing the stays to the rack. no completely tight, just enough to stop rattles...