Problem installing SKS Full Length Chromoplastic Mudguards

[Distorted Vision]

I've been able to successfully install the front mudguard. But I've encountered a problem with the rear. The mounting part of the bridge / bracket is too short for the mounting hole:

Does anyone have any suggestions to solve this problem?

Many thanks!

 

[ianrauk]

I have exactly the very same problem at the moment.
I last fixed it with a small 2 hole blanking plate but I am having trouble sourcing another the right size.

 

[Distorted Vision]

Could you please post a photo of the blanking plate that you used?

 

[User6179]

Does anyone have any suggestions to solve this problem?

Not got a solution to this problem but once you solve it I would put something between the clamp and mudguard, they tend to vibrate and eat into the guard, just caught mine after a few hundred miles before too much damage was done and put some Velcro on the guard and reapplied the clamp.

 

[ianrauk]

I stupidly threw it away.

But it is similar to this

 

[ianrauk]

@Distorted Vision
OK I think I have sourced new ones.
They come in multipacks so PM me your address and I will send you one once I get them.

 

[Distorted Vision]

I've sent you a PM with my address. But could you please post a link of where you sourced them from?

Many thanks.

 

[ianrauk]

I've sent you a PM with my address. But could you please post a link of where you sourced them from?

Many thanks.

Here

 

[I like Skol]

Not got a solution to this problem but once you solve it I would put something between the clamp and mudguard, they tend to vibrate and eat into the guard, just caught mine after a few hundred miles before too much damage was done and put some Velcro on the guard and reapplied the clamp.

View attachment 446394

Not had this problem on mine even after nearly 20k. Recently transferred the same gaurds to my new bike and they have left a slight imprint/witness mark where the clamp has been moved from but not really wearing into the plastic. Did you pinch the clamp fingers tightly enough to grip the guards when you originally fitted them?

 

[User6179]

Not had this problem on mine even after nearly 20k. Recently transferred the same gaurds to my new bike and they have left a slight imprint/witness mark where the clamp has been moved from but not really wearing into the plastic. Did you pinch the clamp fingers tightly enough to grip the guards when you originally fitted them?

I had it clamped quite good I thought but the edge of the clamp had sawed through the guard at the edge on both sides, been on 5 years now with the Velcro and no more damage, I wondered at the time if it was caused by the horrendous ride quality of my Marathon tour plus pumped to the max!?

 

[rogerzilla]

I find the narrowest P35 mudguards last less than a year, because they crack across their width where the stay brackets are riveted on. The roads around here are not much like a billiard table. Wider guards last longer as they're stiffer and don't shake as much.

 

[MichaelW2]

I would make an L bracket, drilled for two holes into the mudguard.

 

[fossyant]

Hever had an issue with my SKS but the rear brake bridge had a mounting point so you could attach the guard without a bracket. 7 years of daily commutes.

 

[Ajax Bay]

In your last photo (in the OP) not sure why you have used both methods of fastening. One needs EITHER a simple screw (aka bolt) into the chainstay bridge (normal) OR a (double) nut and bolted-on 'hook' which goes over the bridge (usually only if there is no threaded hole tapped into the chainstay bridge). The maker supplies the parts for both solutions and has holes in the guard to match but only one method is required. By the way, I'd replace that hex-headed screw into the chainstay bridge with a flatter headed one (flat or cross-headed) for additional tyre/mud clearance. I also use a 10p sized washer (rarely supplied) inside the mudguard there to spread the load on the guard (you currently have the 'hook' plate there achieving that).

 

[wonderloaf]

In your last photo (in the OP) not sure why you have used both methods of fastening. One needs EITHER a simple screw (aka bolt) into the chainstay bridge (normal) OR a (double) nut and bolted-on 'hook' which goes over the bridge (usually only if there is no threaded hole tapped into the chainstay bridge). The maker supplies the parts for both solutions and has holes in the guard to match but only one method is required. By the way, I'd replace that hex-headed screw into the chainstay bridge with a flatter headed one (flat or cross-headed) for additional tyre/mud clearance. I also use a 10p sized washer (rarely supplied) inside the mudguard there to spread the load on the guard (you currently have the 'hook' plate there achieving that).

On my bike I've done as @Ajax Bay has suggested, just used a screw into the chainstay bridge with a large washer under the head .. in my case I didn't have a washer of the correct size so drilled a hole through a 1p coin (is this a penny washer?) ... I'm too poor to waste a 10p coin! If you can do the same or similar you'll end up with the existing plate with the three holes and the screws as surplus, could you use these to fashion a blanking late to bridge the gap between the mudguard and frame?