Please help an enthusiastic newbie with first road bike choice

[BetterLateThanNever93]

Hi, guys!
I want to buy my first road bike - I haven't done any cycling in 10 years, but I'm active in other sports - but with the goal to do around 200-250km every week, so I want to get serious about it right away (let's just say, rediscovering road cycling and watching Pogačar's Giro win made me even more motivated to start). I have a limited budget (as you will see, this price is at the top of that range) and option because of the region I live in. What do you think about these two used bikes?
1. Orbea Orca Race carbon frame 57 cm
-bc basic ROAD 35 aluminum wheel
-Shimano 105 ST-5700 2x10 lever
-Shimano 105 FC-R7000 34-50 172.5 mm gear
-Shimano 105 BR-R7000 brakes
-FSA SL-K SB20 carbon shank
-FSA Gossamer 80 or 100 mm stem
-sa Selle Italia SLR Boost Superflow
-PRO PLT CC carbon handlebar 42 cm
-front derailleur Shimano 105 FD-5700
-Shimano 105 RD-5701 GS rear derailleur
-Shimano CS-HG500 11-32 cassette
-Shimano Ultegra CN-6701 chain
-Continental Grand Prix tyres 700x25
-weight 7.25 kg (Sorry, if the translation is not exactly correct)

• Price: 1100$

2. Cayo Ultegra Mix
- Frame: Cayo P2T Carbon
- Fork: Focus CRF 01 Carbon T4
- Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra
- Front Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra
- Shifter: Shimano Ultegra
- Cassette: Shimano 105
- Crankset: Shimano RS500
- Gear: front: 52/36, rear: 11/28
- Handlebar: Concept EX
- Stem: Concept EX
- Headset: FSA Orbit C33
- Saddle: Concept EX
- Seatpost: Concept EX
- Brake Calipers: Concept R540
- Wheelset: Fulcrum CEX 7.0
- Tires: Michelin
- Price: 850$

 

[biggs682]

Welcome @BetterLateThanNever93
My advice would be to buy a good second hand bike first for a lot less than $1100 to see if you actually enjoy it again .

I would like to think $500 at most will get you something decent?

 

[Chislenko]

Welcome @BetterLateThanNever93
My advice would be to buy a good second hand bike first for a lot less than $1100 to see if you actually enjoy it again .

I would like to think $500 at most will get you something decent?

I think they are second hand as Orbea Carbon Framed bikes are not that cheap and they no longer offer rim brakes or 2 x 10.

I think that is already quite an old bike so as you say price is too much.

 

[BetterLateThanNever93]

Yeah, they are second hand. I'm not sure if I'm in the right here but I thought buying a carbon framed bike would be better for my goals, but even a better looking used one starts from 700 $ here.
The Orbea is 7 years old although the seller said many components have been replaced throughout the years.

 

[Alex321]

The Orbea seems expensive for what it is, but if you have much in the way of hills, the gearing will make it easier than the Focus.

It is quite a difference between 50/34 11-32 and 52/36 11-28.

 

[PedallingNowhereSlowly]

with the goal to do around 200-250km every week

I wouldn't buy either of those as a first bike - way too much money.

I'd pick up a second hand hybrid - there's a good few around and people don't ask such silly money for them. If you are lucky, you could pick one up for $50 that's been used twice and aside from that, not seen day light. They often come with accessories too which make them better value.

It's not going to be as fast a road bike, but it will have more comfortable wide tyres, and a comfortable position. It's also suited to riding in more places than a road bike - parks and light trails etc..

Use that to get your cycling fitness, and perhaps set youself a target. Once reaching say, 1000 or 2000km total distance, buy the road bike. By then, you will have had more time to survey the market, understand the differences between the bikes and perhaps even make a short list of what you want and what you are willing to pay. That way you will get the best deal. The time will even give you a bit more money to save towards it.

When you get on your new (to you) road bike, it will feel amazingly quick after riding the hybrid. And when your road bike breaks and is in the shop (or you are waiting on spares) or even if the weather is a bit pants, you've got the hybrid to fall back on, which will afford you such luxuries as mudguards.

I bought a second hand road bike. I paid a bit too much for it. Not only that, but I hadn't realised how much things had moved on. And I hate cleaning bikes so I didn't use that much because it's rained almost solidly here since late last summer. As a result, I used my old hybrid bike much more than the new road bike I bought. I've now loaned that out that road bike because I bought myself a new road/gravel bike to use year round, as it takes mudguards etc..

I may be, being a bit self-indulgent with this advice but taking a bit more time now will reap it's rewards in the not-so-distant future.

 

[FishFright]

Buy the one you like the look of. Or better try to get a ride on both and see what feels the nicest.

Don't worry too much about the 'ooh that is too much' comments because they appear on every what bike thread regardless of cost.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I'd echo @biggs682 's comment of getting a relatively cheap second hand bike first. Then you'll learn what's important to YOU, what things you like about it and what frustrates you and you'd like to be better. Then once you've figured that out you can get rid of the trial bike and splurge on something fancy that is exactly what you want. This isn't about penny pinching, it's more about making sure you end up with the right bike for you.

That said, the first thing I look at is the gears, and the second bike has really high gearing (52/36 11-28) suited to a super fit racing type, or someone who lives somewhere very flat, or both. So if those things don't describe you, then steer clear or else you'll soon find yourself back on here asking what you need to do to fit lower gears. The second one has a more usual 50/34 11-32 which is more suited to normal people.

Both bikes have rim brakes (Shimano BR-R7000 and concept R540). This is opening a bit of a can of worms but do you really want rim brakes. Discs are getting a lot more popular these days.

 

[kingrollo]

I'd get a low end but decent bike. Perhaps something like a giant contend - blast around on it for 12 months and see how you feel.

Imo you would be unwise to launch into 200km per week - do frequent short rides. Really at this early stage you don't want to spend large amounts .. . there's lots of other stuff you need - lights, shorts, Garmin, HRM, , gloves , shoes , then you will need kit for winter ..

Good luck and welcome whatever you decide.

 

[Jameshow]

I'd get a low end but decent bike. Perhaps something like a giant contend - blast around on it for 12 months and see how you feel.

Imo you would be unwise to launch into 200km per week - do frequent short rides. Really at this early stage you don't want to spend large amounts .. . there's lots of other stuff you need - lights, shorts, Garmin, HRM, , gloves , shoes , then you will need kit for winter ..

Good luck and welcome whatever you decide.

Also spez allez, Cannondale cadd8, Scott speedster, trek domaine al etc.

Good bikes which if brought s/h will sell easily later.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Other things to consider are

Tyre clearance. The first bike above is fitted with 25mm tyres, the other doesn't specify. The trend these days is for fatter (say up to 30 or 32mm) tyres, and a frame with more clearance will enable you to experiment with these and see if you like them. You'd have to do a bit of research to find out what these frames will accept.

Mudguard clearance and fittings. Related to tyre clearance. If you want to ride in winter (or any season in the UK ) then you'll probably want to fit guards (fenders). Is this possible? Again a bit of googling needed.

If you decide you want to experiment with fatter tyres you might decide to experiment with tubeless too (subject of many heated discussions and strong opinions on here) so check out if the rims are tubeless ready.

Frame material. You've gone for two carbon bikes above. Including aluminium frame bikes will give you a wider choice.

These suggestions (fatter tyres, mudguards, tubeless) are all options that you might eventually decide you don't like. But if you go for an all out racy frame with tight clearances you won't have the opportunity to try them, so you'll never know.

Rack fittings. A bike that can take a rack is more flexible in what you can do with it than one that can't. You don't have to fit one.

Lastly ... If buying second hand don't be in a hurry to buy. Let a few tasty looking opportunities go first while you get a feeling for the market.

 

[MichaelW2]

Other things to look for are

Tyre clearance. The first bike above is fitted with 25mm tyres, the other doesn't specify. The trend these days is for fatter (say 32mm) tyres, and a frame with more clearance will enable you to experiment with these and see if you like them. You'd have to do a bit of research to find out what these frames will accept.

Mudguard clearance and fittings. Related to tyre clearance. If you want to ride in winter (or any season in the UK )then you'll probably want to fit guards (fenders). Is this possible? Again a bit of googling needed.

If you decide you want to experiment with fatter tyres you might decide to experiment with tubeless too (subject of many heated discussions and strong opinions on here) so check out if the rims are tubeless ready.

Frame material. You've gone for two carbon bikes above. Including aluminium frame bikes will give you a wider choice.

These suggestions (fatter tyres, mudguards, tubeless) are all options that you might eventually decide you don't like. But if you go for an all out racy frame with tight clearances you won't have the opportunity to try them, so you'll never know.

Rack fittings. A bike that can take a rack is more flexible in what you can do with it than one that can't. You don't have to fit one.

Lastly ... If buying second hand don't be in a hurry to buy. Let a few tasty looking opportunities go first while you get a feeling for the market.

This is the difference between a race bike and a general purpose road bike. The extra tyre clearance and eyelets make it much easier to expand riding beyond fast rides on dry days. Note also the gear ratios and lowest gear. Racers punish themselves to go fast. Riders enjoy their rides at whatever pace they want, and can cope with the steepest terrain they expect to ride.

 

[Dogtrousers]

This is the difference between a race bike and a general purpose road bike. The extra tyre clearance and eyelets make it much easier to expand riding beyond fast rides on dry days. Note also the gear ratios and lowest gear. Racers punish themselves to go fast. Riders enjoy their rides at whatever pace they want, and can cope with the steepest terrain they expect to ride.

... And the more you enjoy your riding the more you'll do. Remember you can always flog yourself for speed on any bike, but you can't necessarily be comfortable on any bike.

 

[Chislenko]

Other things to consider are

Tyre clearance. The first bike above is fitted with 25mm tyres, the other doesn't specify. The trend these days is for fatter (say up to 30 or 32mm) tyres, and a frame with more clearance will enable you to experiment with these and see if you like them. You'd have to do a bit of research to find out what these frames will accept.

You are absolutely spot on re tyres. I have a 2015 Orca which originally came with 23mm tyres. I have now got 25mm on. Anything above that is a definite no and absolutely no chance of fitting mudguards.

The Orca was, and still is, Orbea's "race bike" and is fine for that purpose. Luckily, unlike the OP, I have other bikes for differing rides / weather situations.

If this was to be my only bike I wouldn't buy it quite apart from the fact that it is too much money for it's vintage.

As someone else has suggested you can't really go wrong with an Allez, particularly the Sora 9 speed ones.

 

[cyberknight]

I will just add that no matter the price of the bike and how good the parts are make sure its the right size .