Pedal stuck fast on

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figbat

Slippery scientist
Depends which pedal!
Point the crank to the rear, fit and point the spanner/hex key to the rear, and apply downwards force: correct every time.
Sorry - yes, I was still working on the OP's drive-side request.
I guess the point is that once you have worked out what the thread is for the crank you are working on, it's the other way around if you use the hex drive on the end of the spindle.
 

T.M.H.N.E.T

Rainbows aren't just for world champions
Location
Northern Ireland
Big allen key in back, whacky whacky with a heavy thing and/or ring spanner over the end for leverage
 
Location
Loch side.
Another trick I've found to be of potential benefit is to repeatedly heat the thread then bleed in oil around all visible interfaces between the two part; as the assembly cools a vacuum should be formed between the parts and help to draw the nice hot mobile oil into the threads.

I don't see the logic. Surely as the lot cools down, voids are closed and any air inside is pushed out.

As I said, potions and lotions don't help.
 

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
I don't see the logic. Surely as the lot cools down, voids are closed and any air inside is pushed out.

As I said, potions and lotions don't help.
My experience would suggest the opposite as heating the assembly with the oil already applied to all the joints results in a steady stream of bubbles from the threaded interface. Also when apart you can usually see that the oil has penetrated the threads to some extent.

Also, rightly or wrongly I'd expect the volume displaced by the air as it's heated to be greater than that of the metal components, if that makes sense.
 
Location
Loch side.
My experience would suggest the opposite as heating the assembly with the oil already applied to all the joints results in a steady stream of bubbles from the threaded interface. Also when apart you can usually see that the oil has penetrated the threads to some extent.

Also, rightly or wrongly I'd expect the volume displaced by the air as it's heated to be greater than that of the metal components, if that makes sense.

It doesn't work as you think it does.

The reason a pedal is stuck so fast is because of friction welding. That means, the threads on the steel pedal are fused to the threads on the aluminium crank. It is caused by fretting, which in turn is caused by the movable joint. A pedal should have had a taper on the end like a wheel nut. Instead it has a square shoulder and this shoulder moves significantly during pedaling. It (rouge and gouging) can be seen when you remove the pedal.

From the fretting, the threads weld. However, they only weld on the pulling side of the thread's "V" The other side essentially doesn't even touch. Fluid may well penetrate here but it won't contribute to loosening because it can't penetrate the welded sections, which are the problem after all.

When the crank is heated, the expansion does two things. It enlarges the hole and it thickens the crank (i.e. lengthen the hole). This breaks the weld.

Millions of liters of useless "penetrant oils" are sprayed on components each and every day, yet very little of it does anything other than to stink the place out and make you feel like you're making a positive contribution to solving the problem.
 
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Mr Celine

Discordian
For future reference, set the crank forwards with the pedal spanner as closely alongside it as possible, end of the spanner next to the BB, straddle the bike, stand on the spanner and bounce. Never fails. Doing the same upside-down and shocking it with a mallet will work too. And yes, penetrating oil is a waste of time. It doesn't penetrate until you've begun to move the parts.
As above, but before standing on the spanner imagine this is you-

1585657730890.png

You are Steve McQueen and you are going to start that bike!
 

anothersam

SMIDSMe
Location
Far East Sussex
IThe reason a pedal is stuck so fast is because of friction welding. That means, the threads on the steel pedal are fused to the threads on the aluminium crank. It is caused by fretting, which in turn is caused by the movable joint. A pedal should have had a taper on the end like a wheel nut. Instead it has a square shoulder and this shoulder moves significantly during pedaling. It (rouge and gouging) can be seen when you remove the pedal.

From the fretting, the threads weld. However, they only weld on the pulling side of the thread's "V" The other side essentially doesn't even touch. Fluid may well penetrate here but it won't contribute to loosening because it can't penetrate the welded sections, which are the problem after all.

When the crank is heated, the expansion does two things. It enlarges the hole and it thickens the crank (i.e. lengthen the hole). This breaks the weld.

Millions of liters of useless "penetrant oils" are sprayed on components each and every day, yet very little of it does anything other than to stink the place out and make you feel like you're making a positive contribution to solving the problem.
That’s actually pretty fascinating – and I’m about the least technical person ever.

The last time I had this problem I also summoned Achimedes

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to inspire this great big bodge of a tool

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which promptly broke. In the end I was forced to buy my way out of it.

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