Pedal stuck fast on

[Slioch]

Does that pedal have an allen bolt on the other side of the crank?
If so, allen key + long length of suitable tubing + brute force

 

[plastic_cyclist]

Does that pedal have an allen bolt on the other side of the crank?
If so, allen key + long length of suitable tubing + brute force

Yes, but its not exactly a flush hex shape, given Ive hacked away at the hole somewhat, the allen key just slips out.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Most likely to succeed with shock action: spanner which fits the flats securely, facing to the rear of the bike, horizontalish, block of wood under the bottom bracket, and hit the spanner end hard with a heavy object/mallet. Easier with a moment's (within 2m) help (to ensure spanner stays on).

 

[plastic_cyclist]

SUCCESS!!!
Good old kettle water !!
Poured over the bolt, left for 2 mins and then Bingo! 👍 can’t believe that, it wasn’t going anywhere before that.

👏 thanks for all the replies you guys.

 

[Globalti]

For future reference, set the crank forwards with the pedal spanner as closely alongside it as possible, end of the spanner next to the BB, straddle the bike, stand on the spanner and bounce. Never fails. Doing the same upside-down and shocking it with a mallet will work too. And yes, penetrating oil is a waste of time. It doesn't penetrate until you've begun to move the parts.

 

[keithmac]

I'm surprised the kettle water go it hot enough!.

I bought one of these a few years back, don't use it often but it's worth it's weight in gold when you have a seized fastener!.

 

[Pale Rider]

I'm surprised the kettle water go it hot enough!.

Me too.

We used to use what we called an impact driver - you whacked the end to shock the thread and the mechanism gave the fixing a tiny amount of twist at the same time.

I suppose that wouldn't work with a bolt because the impact would only transmit to the area around the hex head.

Should work with an allen fixing.

Don't hear much about them these days, although some come up on google.

Are they still in regular use?

https://www.toolstation.com/impact-driver-bit-set/p90581

 

[keithmac]

Me too.

We used to use what we called an impact driver - you whacked the end to shock the thread and the mechanism gave the fixing a tiny amount of twist at the same time.

I suppose that wouldn't work with a bolt because the impact would only transmit to the area around the hex head.

Should work with an allen fixing.

Don't hear much about them these days, although some come up on google.

Are they still in regular use?

https://www.toolstation.com/impact-driver-bit-set/p90581

I still use the impact driver for stubborn Philips screws where you struggle to get enough purchase on the screw heads.

Allen bolts normally end up with a spline bit hammered in if they have rounded off (customers with soft allen keys normally).

Used the Rothenberger last weekend on my lads crankcases, saved a LOT of work removing a 6mm bolt with heat!.

We have one at work as well, saves lugging the welding bottles out!.

 

[Pale Rider]

Going back to nuts, I have a heavy old splitter which I used a few times when salvaging components from a scrapped car.

Amazon product ASIN B0001K9VPOView: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-55108-3-Piece-Capacity-Splitter/dp/B0001K9VPO

 

[keithmac]

Die grinder and reciprocating saw for me, they are normally hidden in the middle of the bikes!.

Vespa GTS exhaust nuts are prone to corroding and grinding them off is last chance saloon before taking the engine out..

 

[Pale Rider]

Die grinder and reciprocating saw for me, they are normally hidden in the middle of the bikes!.

I think that's why splitters are popular to remove components on scrap cars.

You can often do some mild butchering to gain access which you couldn't do if the vehicle was going to be used again.

 

[keithmac]

I think that's why splitters are popular to remove components on scrap cars.

You can often do some mild butchering to gain access which you couldn't do if the vehicle was going to be used again.

I bought a second hand engine for the GTO, they'd chopped through the oil cooler lines with bolt cutters and cut the driveshafts out with acetylene torch!.

I was a bit miffed with the lines, they are rare to find in good condition and I'd have paid extra if I'd known they were still in good condition!.

 

[figbat]

Just to add - if using the allen key in the end of the pedal spindle, you have to use a left-hand-undo method (ie unscrew it clockwise). I've done loads of pedals and still have to work it through in my mind before going at it!

 

[Ajax Bay]

you have to use a left-hand-undo method (ie unscrew it clockwise).

Depends which pedal!
Point the crank to the rear, fit and point the spanner/hex key to the rear, and apply downwards force: correct every time.

 

[wafter]

Heat is often your friend in these situations as you've found out; I have a small propane torch that runs off a large recycleable cylinder that's very useful for such things.

Another trick I've found to be of potential benefit is to repeatedly heat the thread then bleed in oil around all visible interfaces between the two part; as the assembly cools a vacuum should be formed between the parts and help to draw the nice hot mobile oil into the threads.

I hope they're going back together with lashings of anti-seize grease