Orbea Gain

[youngoldbloke]

I find the app quite useful, but as I've posted before, lots of problems with it until the recent update. But I don't use a Garmin or any other device on the bike - so the speed, distance, % charge left etc are helpful. The distance covered figure now seems fairly accurate too. I'm using a Motorola Moto E5 with a big battery and have plenty of charge left after a morning's ride. I also find the assistance level figure shown on the screen of help as you no longer need to look at the IWOC button when changing levels.

 

[Scaleyback]

Many thanks NickWi.

 

[Scaleyback]

So far I have predominately ridden in level1 assist and I have now got a good idea of the bikes range (and mine) with the minimum assist,
Yesterday I rode with level2 assist set as my default level and I used level 3 maybe 6 times on any gradients above about 6%. My Garmin has
a barometer so is pretty accurate. What to say but Wow ! at 5' 9" and 70kg I am a decent climber but it has been a few years since I rode
undulating roads at this sort of pace.
Garmin ride details are :-
Distance: 25.65 mi
Time: 1:30:18
Avg Speed: 17.0 mph
Elev Gain: 1,867 ft
Avg HR: 123 bpm
Max HR: 143 bpm

Here is the Assist & Consumption plot from the 'App'

Oh, I forgot the 1st mile I was in level1. No red spikes means no battery drain e.g over the 15.5mph assist level. The 2 big blocks of level3 at 8m and 19m are long climbs of around 2 miles with a max gradient of 14%
I hope I do not sound boastful but for me these climbs on level 3 are not difficult. I still had 57% battery when I got home which surprised me, I thought it would
be a lot less. I used the app this time with no problems, the last ride when the app kept crashing I was using a bluetooth HR monitor,
maybe there was some conflict with the BT connection between the bike and the app ? I'm guessing. I used an ant+ HR monitor this ride.
This bike impresses me more every time I try something new.

 

[Zofo]

Just had my first ride on the Orbea Gain M 30. Over rolling hills covered 48 miles with 4000ft climbing before battery finally gave out-average speed 15.4mph.
Initial thoughts are impressed with the ride quality. First time I’ve ridden with tubeless tires, set the pressure at the recommended 72 psi for 28 mm. I’ve gone for the blue/red frame, however be warned if you are considering this the colour is actually a Day-glo orange – I am seriously considering getting the frame re-sprayed fairly soon!
I rode mainly in level one & two – my only criticism it’s very hard to distinguish between the orange light and the red light in strong sunlight so can be a bit confusing what level I was in. I like the fact that the motor doesn’t dominate the ride, it can be like riding with a tail wind or much more of a kick when going uphill depending on how hard you pedal.
Will report back with further updates on subsequent rides .

 

[Scaleyback]

Hi Zofo,
M30, basically the same bike as my D30 but with a carbon frame I believe. ?
Yes, I agree about the orange and red lights in sunshine. I have quickly learned to always know what assist level I'm in plus how to move through the assist levels without looking down. 48 mile with 4,000 ft of climbing seems pretty decent. I have 'adjusted' my 3 assist levels down to 80%. I guess this will give longer battery range ? although not the reason I have done this, I like to work hard !
My tyres are 35c front and 38c rear and I ride about 60 psi. I am happy to lose a little potential speed for this very comfortable ride. I don't think the carbon
frames allow such wide tyres do they ?
I used to live in Leicestershire (Hinckley way) until I moved north in 2010. Leicestershire, pretty flat mostly I always used to think, where are your hills ?
Keep us informed, always interested to hear other folks ride experiences.
Roy

 

[Zofo]

Hi Roy,

Yes my M30 is full carbon frame, fitted with 105 group set, hydraulic discs and tubeless tyres. Interested to hear you have adjusted your level three down to 80% – how have you managed to do that? I’m on the East Leicestershire border close to Rutland and Northamptonshire where there are a lot of short sharp climbs around 8 to 12% -it’s amazing how quickly the vertical ascent stacks up on a three hour ride. I bought the Gain to continue riding as I have a problem with my blood pressure which goes too high when I’m exercising-in fact my doctor advised me to stop cycling altogether, which clearly I’m not doing!

I found the technique for riding with the Gain on rolling hills is somewhat different to my regular bike where I’m used to really pushing at the bottom of a climb to take as much free speed with me whereas now I realised the sooner the bike gets to 15.5 mph the sooner the motor will kick in. So now I’m coasting up into a climb instead -trying to keep my heart rate under 130bpm.

Interested to hear your thoughts as well.

 

[derrick]

So far I have predominately ridden in level1 assist and I have now got a good idea of the bikes range (and mine) with the minimum assist,
Yesterday I rode with level2 assist set as my default level and I used level 3 maybe 6 times on any gradients above about 6%. My Garmin has
a barometer so is pretty accurate. What to say but Wow ! at 5' 9" and 70kg I am a decent climber but it has been a few years since I rode
undulating roads at this sort of pace.
Garmin ride details are :-
Distance: 25.65 mi
Time: 1:30:18
Avg Speed: 17.0 mph
Elev Gain: 1,867 ft
Avg HR: 123 bpm
Max HR: 143 bpm

Here is the Assist & Consumption plot from the 'App'

View attachment 460431

Oh, I forgot the 1st mile I was in level1. No red spikes means no battery drain e.g over the 15.5mph assist level. The 2 big blocks of level3 at 8m and 19m are long climbs of around 2 miles with a max gradient of 14%
I hope I do not sound boastful but for me these climbs on level 3 are not difficult. I still had 57% battery when I got home which surprised me, I thought it would
be a lot less. I used the app this time with no problems, the last ride when the app kept crashing I was using a bluetooth HR monitor,
maybe there was some conflict with the BT connection between the bike and the app ? I'm guessing. I used an ant+ HR monitor this ride.
This bike impresses me more every time I try something new.

Nothing to boast about you are on an electric bike.

 

[Scaleyback]

Hi Roy,

Yes my M30 is full carbon frame, fitted with 105 group set, hydraulic discs and tubeless tyres. Interested to hear you have adjusted your level three down to 80% – how have you managed to do that? I’m on the East Leicestershire border close to Rutland and Northamptonshire where there are a lot of short sharp climbs around 8 to 12% -it’s amazing how quickly the vertical ascent stacks up on a three hour ride. I bought the Gain to continue riding as I have a problem with my blood pressure which goes too high when I’m exercising-in fact my doctor advised me to stop cycling altogether, which clearly I’m not doing!

I found the technique for riding with the Gain on rolling hills is somewhat different to my regular bike where I’m used to really pushing at the bottom of a climb to take as much free speed with me whereas now I realised the sooner the bike gets to 15.5 mph the sooner the motor will kick in. So now I’m coasting up into a climb instead -trying to keep my heart rate under 130bpm.

Interested to hear your thoughts as well.

Hi again Zofo,
To adjust the assist levels you need the ebikemotion ‘app’ When you are logged in and near to the bike (connects via bluetooth) there is a menu item called ‘engine’ this shows 3 vertical bars (assist levels) tap to choose level, use bottom slider to adjust, then save.
So yes, your M30 has the same groupset & hydraulic discs as my D30.
I tried tubeless tyres recently on a different bike, sorry to say I found it a dreadful ‘faff’ and I couldn’t get the tyres to seal, I gave up.
I do not know that side of Leicestershire very well, sounds like I have avoided some hills ?
Do you ride with a HR monitor ? on many of them you can set an ‘alert’ at a given bpm. Apologies if you know all this.
I guess you meant ‘ the sooner the bike gets to 15.5 mph the sooner the motor will kick out. ?
Glad to hear you are enjoying your Gain.

 

[Zofo]

Hi again Zofo,
To adjust the assist levels you need the ebikemotion ‘app’ When you are logged in and near to the bike (connects via bluetooth) there is a menu item called ‘engine’ this shows 3 vertical bars (assist levels) tap to choose level, use bottom slider to adjust, then save.
So yes, your M30 has the same groupset & hydraulic discs as my D30.
I tried tubeless tyres recently on a different bike, sorry to say I found it a dreadful ‘faff’ and I couldn’t get the tyres to seal, I gave up.
I do not know that side of Leicestershire very well, sounds like I have avoided some hills ?
Do you ride with a HR monitor ? on many of them you can set an ‘alert’ at a given bpm. Apologies if you know all this.
I guess you meant ‘ the sooner the bike gets to 15.5 mph the sooner the motor will kick out. ?
Glad to hear you are enjoying your Gain.

Hi Roy,

Nice to hear back from you.

I wouldn’t have chosen tubeless and somewhat apprehensive about what happens if I have a blow out as I’ve read they are a nightmare to get off/on! I reckon I’ll swop them out for some good old Conti 4000s very soon.
Yep I wasn’t very clear I meant the sooner the bike goes under 15.5 mph the sooner the motor kicks in. I do ride with a HRM and try and keep under 130 bpm.You have missed a lot of hills around Oakham/ Uppingham region —you should give it a try sometime !

 

[Scaleyback]

Hi Roy,

Nice to hear back from you.

I wouldn’t have chosen tubeless and somewhat apprehensive about what happens if I have a blow out as I’ve read they are a nightmare to get off/on! I reckon I’ll swop them out for some good old Conti 4000s very soon.
Yep I wasn’t very clear I meant the sooner the bike goes under 15.5 mph the sooner the motor kicks in. I do ride with a HRM and try and keep under 130 bpm.You have missed a lot of hills around Oakham/ Uppingham region —you should give it a try sometime !

I keep reading where 'tubeless' is the way to go to avoid punctures, however they (the poster/reviewer) then usually refers to 'pinch punctures'
Now I understand pinch punctures are far more likely on offroad riding MTB trails etc where you are far more likely to hit a sharp edge/rock and
the inner tube gets pinched on the rim.
I have used sealant (Stans NoTubes) in all my bikes inner tubes for a couple of years now. Only possible with a tube that has a central removable valve core
(Schwalbe tubes do) Then get a 100ml plastic syringe https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-100-150mL-Plastic-Reusable-Syringe-PZor-Measuring-Nutrient-Sterile-Tube-BXN/323217403277?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=fe402ca49d91485e83951a1d25e7c517&pid=100677&rk=2&rkt=30&sd=253310085780&itm=323217403277&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598
and you can introduce the required amount of sealant directly into the tube.
I have used this sealant in 25/28/35/38c tubes. I have only had a couple of punctures but both times after losing air from the tyres the sealant has plugged the hole and it's just a matter of putting more air in the tyres and your cycling again. Of course it's not foolproof, if the hole/split in the tyre is too big the
sealant cannot seal it. 'Weight weenies' will not like this fix ? they will be horrified at the thought of carrying a few grams of extra weight in their tubes.

 

[Zofo]

Having now ridden approx 200 miles on my M30, thought I’d note some observations for those who are contemplating pressing the button on one:

1. The bike really comes into its own on rolling terrain where my average speed is typically around 15-16 mph so a good percentage of the ride is spent at under 15.5 mph and there are plenty of longish climbs to go at. On flatter rides with average road speed 16.5 mph+ I’ve found there is little advantage to be had as for most of the ride I’m moving at over the cut off limit for the motor so the extra weight -13kg -means I’m putting in significantly more effort than would be required on my regular road bike. This is very apparent when on a group club ride and the pace is being pushed.

2. The motor seems to me to be more effective when spinning at a reasonably high cadence up climbs -eg 80 +rpm. I’ve no real way to prove this but I get the impression it is more laboured if grinding away at 65-75 rpm.

3 Battery range is between 45-60 miles depending on terrain -as above. I’ve thought it would be a real improvement if somehow the battery could be charged by the freewheel and/or braking effect as some hybrid cars are.

4 The bike is very cumbersome to ride up any significant gradient without assist at all -once the red light starts blinking fast I have approx 500 ft climbing left .

 

[Storck]

Having now ridden approx 200 miles on my M30, thought I’d note some observations for those who are contemplating pressing the button on one:

1. The bike really comes into its own on rolling terrain where my average speed is typically around 15-16 mph so a good percentage of the ride is spent at under 15.5 mph and there are plenty of longish climbs to go at. On flatter rides with average road speed 16.5 mph+ I’ve found there is little advantage to be had as for most of the ride I’m moving at over the cut off limit for the motor so the extra weight -13kg -means I’m putting in significantly more effort than would be required on my regular road bike. This is very apparent when on a group club ride and the pace is being pushed.

2. The motor seems to me to be more effective when spinning at a reasonably high cadence up climbs -eg 80 +rpm. I’ve no real way to prove this but I get the impression it is more laboured if grinding away at 65-75 rpm.

3 Battery range is between 45-60 miles depending on terrain -as above. I’ve thought it would be a real improvement if somehow the battery could be charged by the freewheel and/or braking effect as some hybrid cars are.

4 The bike is very cumbersome to ride up any significant gradient without assist at all -once the red light starts blinking fast I have approx 500 ft climbing left .

Yes, sweet spot is around 75rpm. This week riding in eco mode only, I covered I29 miles, on one charge, average speed of 14.9mph over four rides. I have still 4% of charge left, all done on rolling roads. Every ride was done with a strong easterly blowing. Riding predominantly North to South, I always had a side wind. Gotta say, I'm delighted with this battery performance.

 

[Zofo]

Yes, sweet spot is around 75rpm. This week riding in eco mode only, I covered I29 miles, on one charge, average speed of 14.9mph over four rides. I have still 4% of charge left, all done on rolling roads. Every ride was done with a strong easterly blowing. Riding predominantly North to South, I always had a side wind. Gotta say, I'm delighted with this battery performance.

129 miles on one charge-must have been some following wind ! Seriously tho how have you done that on rolling terrain ?You must have spent most of your rides above 15.5 mph for the battery to last that long.

 

[Scaleyback]

129 miles on one charge-must have been some following wind ! Seriously tho how have you done that on rolling terrain ?You must have spent most of your rides above 15.5 mph for the battery to last that long.

I agree, that seems very good battery range. Of course "all done on rolling roads " is very open to interpretation. I would be interested in seeing the accurate
elevation gain over the ride. I would also say " average speed of 14.9mph over four rides " seems to disprove Zofo's comment " You must have spent most of your rides above 15.5 mph for the battery to last that long "

 

[Storck]

Good Friday ride. 35.6 miles, avg 14.79 mph, battery consumption 48.20 watts. Yes I can ride above 16mph for long periods. However avg speed suggests I must be riding on edge of assist zone going "in n out" I have noticed? I now ride a couple of gears higher, especially on hills. Can't show you elevation, on the app like with the cadence readings are all over the place. But what remains is, the bike is sat in snooker room with flashing red, app indicating 4% charge remaining, total miles covered 129 at avg speed 14.9 mph. The Mio computer I use on my handlebars disagrees only very slightly with the app figures. Will keep you posted for future ride info?