Octalink 1 left crank keeps loosening

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Given the OPs need to carry extreme loads, Octalink anything was probably a non-starter in reality. What sort of BB do cargo bikes use? I'm personally surprised any part of the OPs drive train survives long. Even if he is a pure racing snake, loads up to 80kg on top of that is really beyond all but the toughest of bikes, surely?
Edit: even a cursory search regarding heavy load cycles shows, without exception, square-taper BBs or a modification thereof.
 
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silva

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
it was 23 februari that the step hit me to later on discover the crank was losening again.
I tensioned it again, checked a while, crank stayed fixed. No problem anymore.
Today, at time to leave work, started to rain and thunder. A lot rain, was years ago that I went through such dense rain.
15 km further, I noticed left crank had a narrow power transmission gap, abit like stopping to push with a slack chain. Due to previous experiences, I instantly knew reason. Stopped and indeed, the crank was near falling off.
Coincidence - I say no. Dejavu from my freewheel time, also heavy rain and suddenly could pedal in both directions without resistance (springs too weak due to pallets hampered by wet and more sticky grease.
I'd say that Octalink connection is flawed, way too prone to losening. Water acts as a lubricant, and in this case enough to make it slip, to then further on working itself loose.
I tensioned it again, checked 4 times in the remaining 30 km, and it appeared to stay fixed.
It's a mechanically weird phenomenom, considering there is no any taper in the mount.
 
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silva

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
Ofcourse I will do that but when the bearings are bust, not for the reason having been sold a crap part.

I thought designs declared as a standard didn't have such flaws.
It's a decades old standard, apparently a known problem, yet chosen and sold by dealers, without warning, and even after seeing customer back mentioning the problem, still not a word.

If they don't know they suck as bicycle specialist and if they do they suck in general.
Next time I'll demand specs of parts they gonna chose for a repair, look these up to find out about problems, then ask to do the job.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Of course I will do that but when the bearings are bust, not for the reason having been sold a crap part.
I thought designs declared as a standard didn't have such flaws.
It's a decades old standard, apparently a known problem, yet chosen and sold by dealers, without warning, and even after seeing customer back mentioning the problem, still not a word.
The crank/BB interface has failed: it is "bust".
Please say what authority "declared" Octa1 "a standard".
Are you suggesting that all the various BB "standards" don't have "flaws"?
Octa1 was produced for a while and then superseded by Octa2 (not recommended either but better than Octa1).
I appreciate you need to maintain your image as one who enjoys self-flagellation but also suggest you want a cycle that is not going to fail you. This BB/crank will, repeatedly. And the blamed 'dealer' will not gaf.
 
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silva

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
The start of the cranks losening was the start of the cranks usage subsequent to dealer choice and mount.
Back to dealer with it: didn't say it failed, didn't say it was bust, took a bigger allen key than mine, and tensioned it with it.
And it kept on losening.

The Shimano "autority" designed the Octalink "standard", or system, or whatever semantics.

Did the dealer mount a used bottom bracket on my bike? I don't know. Since he told me that he didn't know delivery time, due to the havoc caused by the lockdowns, I told him to order 2 BB's to have a spare ready in case of a next story, 1 I can't see since it's inside the bike, the other sits in a new appearing box and appears new.

Whatever it was, fact is that the solution that the dealer chosed, was a big allen key, and I can probably assume he also used the key when mounting the BB.

So "failed", "bust", for that to be the case, the crank shouldn't have started losening weeks from its mount onwards, and it did.

So as I said in previous post, since I paid for the thing, I will use it till it REALLY "fails", which is, worn, damage by usage, those reasons are acceptable.
In meantime I found a couple 3 times longer allen keys, and I keep one next to my money so I that I don't have to search around in my luggage in the rain and or dark. :P

Talking about rain...
The problem once again manifestated, clearly triggered by water (it rained so much that I had to go through 15 cm water here and there, and some traces of a brown substance were seen around the cranks mount, no rust, some viscous stuff, a grease.
So yesterday I got the thought to wrap some water protection around the bottom bracket there.
Gonna wait till a period dry weather, as to give it time to dry out completely, then do it.
Maybe that stops the losenings, at least those due to rain, not those due to staring down guyes on steps hitting me. :P

I don't risk that much, since I'm aware of the problem, which was not the case the first time, causing me to keep on pedaling until the crank just hung down.
As soon as I feel something unusual, I stop and check. As long I'm not forced to do that all the time, it's acceptable. So far it was days, to then having months no problem.
Look at this last case, that step guy story was 23 feb 2023 (this topic), 10 weeks no problem, then riding through water, problem back.
Maybe humidity/water was the dominant reason all the time, it could explain the apparently sudden reoccurrences without a clear reason such as the step guy accident.
Worth a try then, no?

IF such water protection does make the problem vanish, then it proves too. And it's proof that doesn't need years, just months.
I will inform here, dying threads don't kill problems, solutions do.
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
The problem is that, whether you grasp it or not, your BB and its crankset is finished. Cut your losses and install a new Shimano square-taper setup. That will be the end of the problem, and is the correct setup for the loads you carry.

Methinks your post will be ***lalalalanotlisteninglalala***
 
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silva

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
The problem is that, whether you grasp it or not, your BB and its crankset is finished. Cut your losses and install a new Shimano square-taper setup. That will be the end of the problem, and is the correct setup for the loads you carry.
Of course not.

The contrary - I cut my losses by NOT spending extra by keep using this part for the time it should have been usable.
The first Octalink BB failed within a year - alot play on the axle.
The replacement failed within weeks - left crank losening.

And the loads I carry sit on my wheel axle not on my bottom bracket so don't suggest my usage ot the bike is a cause.

This Octalink 1 replaced the square taper BB it originally was.
The reason I wanted to try a splines BB was my 10+ years good experience on a previous singlespeed bike that had a Hollowtech 2 BB. The bearings lasted long and the chain tension stayed steady over its run.
But the dealer said that HT2 didn't fit the bike, instead he offered Octalink 1.
It didn't solve the chain tension variation.
All it did was delivering a single year bearings life.
During which the left crank never losened.
And then, the current, it does.
He probably sold me a crap one he had left in stock for years.
Also suggested by the contradiction - dealer said he had in recent years no idea if part would be available and when delivered - the havoc the lockdowns made, yet, less than a week later a mail that my bike was ready.

It's not a matter of grasping you, it's a matter of refusal to reward crap dealers with orders that shouldn't have been.

SO, I continue check & retension, what I did since the month it was mounted.
We're a year after bottom bracked finished.
There is a gas furnage here that a dealer declared as unrepairable / finished. That was in the seventies. My mother asked a handyman a second opinion and the furnage worked until mother left. That was 2 years ago.
Go figure.

The only thing that matters for me, is to avoid a sudden and catastrophic failure, as in, the crank comes lose, and can't be remounted, leaving me stuck along the road.
As far as it looks like now, if I take care to check enough times, and recognize fast enough a pending losening, that shouldn't occur, no?
As also said, I'll see if I can shield the cranks entry into the bottom bracket from rain / water.
Because after many months no losening, it restarted shortly after a very heavy rain with roads blank.
Could be coincidence, but water acts abit as a lubricant so it is possible. The reason I digged freewheel and went to fixed was also that. Heavy rain and all of sudden freewheeling forward too. That's a stuck along the road.


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But the load carried needs power to move it, and that power is transmitted by your faulty crankset...
If the splines were to fail catastrophically, you might well be looking at a serious dental bill as well as a new crankset.
 

classic33

Leg End Member
But the load carried needs power to move it, and that power is transmitted by your faulty crankset...
If the splines were to fail catastrophically, you might well be looking at a serious dental bill as well as a new crankset.
I've tried telling him that, but were told that he'd know before it failed. Thus allowing him to stop beforehand and tighten up.
 
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