Nipples (the spoke variety)

[yashicamat]

Having made the effort to get out on my MTB yesterday for the first time this year, I was a bit gutted to discover a spoke popped loose on the front wheel (Alex 'STOUT' rims). Closer inspection shows that the alloy spoke nipple had sheared off. Now, this has me wondering about a few things which I hope somebody might be able to answer please:

1) The fact that one has sheared off (googling suggested checking the spoke protrusion through the nipple - most of them do pass through to the slot on the inside face of the nipple), does this suggest the others are likely to as well? In which case, is it best to get the wheel effectively rebuilt with brass nipples (which are, apparently, better - although my research is based upon subjective web articles so I don't know if this is really the case)

2) I'm due to go touring in Germany in May and will be covering quite some miles on my touring bike . . . which has Alex Adventurer rims . . . with what look like alloy spoke nipples. Maybe I'm being paranoid, but is this likely to be a problem? Obviously there are more spokes on my touring wheels (36 as opposed to 28 I think on the MTB) and the tourer isn't bouncing off big rocks, but it will (and spends most of it's miles) carrying heavy loads. I'd be a bit gutted to ditch the whole wheel as the hubs are Shimano XT and have less than 2000 miles on them . . . although the Spa handbuilt rims are very tempting and I could presumably get them to build the wheels with brass nipples (again, assuming they're more durable).

Any advice/thoughts on these things would be greatly appreciated. :-)

 

[Gerry Attrick]

Generally there are two issues with alloy nipples. One is that salt and crud cause corrosion which seizes the nipples to the spokes very efficiently. That your spokes may be stainless matters not, the corrosion of the alloy is sufficient. The other snag is that when attempting to adjust said nipples, you round off the squares. They can shear off, but I would suggest uneven spoke tension or rim deformation is the fault which initiates the process.

If it were my bike, I would want to check the spokes and nipples very carefully. Take off the tyre, tube and rim tape and apply a drop of penetrating oil every day for a few days. At the end of that time, if I could turn the nipples (ensuring it is not just the spoke twisting with the nipple), then I would just replace the duff nipple, true the wheel and job done. However if there was the slightest hint of seizing, then I would rebuild the wheel.

 

[fossyant]

Fix the current wheel and get on with life.......... simples.

 

[heretic]

Alloy nipples are crap, not to put too fine a point on it. Next time use old fashioned chrome plated brass and oil the threads. The only disadvantage is a weight penalty so small it's barely measurable.

 

[yashicamat]

I've fortunately found a LBS that'll rebuild the wheel for a good price, so chrome brass nipples it is! At that price, I might even get my touring wheels done too before Germany and then I can forget about them for the next 10 years.

Cheers for the replies everyone.

 

[gwhite]

I've fortunately found a LBS that'll rebuild the wheel for a good price, so chrome brass nipples it is! At that price, I might even get my touring wheels done too before Germany and then I can forget about them for the next 10 years.

Cheers for the replies everyone.

It's disgraceful that you've had to go to that expense. Having had to rebuild a wheel after finding that all the alu nipples were frozen, I can sympathise with you. This seems to be a clear case of using materials unfit for purpose, as the result of using this combination of alu and steel is widely known.
To create such a problem for the sake of bling or reduced weight is criminal.

 

[PpPete]

I could be wrong but I thought brass nipples are usually nickel plated, not chrome plated.
Nickel is just as corrosion resistant and sticks a lot better than chrome.

 

[tjsc1]

I prefer the 'other' nipples!!