New fangled (for me anyway) Bottom Brackets - Tips Please

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raleighnut

Legendary Member
Looks cross threaded to me too, good job it's only Nylon. :becool:
 
OP
OP
psmiffy
Location
Midlands
It transpires that pre-load caps come in different lengths - It would seem I have the 2015 cranks and a 2016 pre-load cap or vice versa ^_^
 
I'm pretty sure that funny metal thing, the lock spacer should be down not sticking up. Although in truth I took mine off altogether as it was a pain and I was confident my crank wasn't going to come off.
 
Location
Loch side.
The pre-load cap is not seating against the crank face - do I have the wrong length pre-load cap?/ View attachment 136353
Houston. We have a problem.

There is something wrong there. I suspect you have too many spacers in the BB and now the crank spindle is too short. Show a picture of the inside of the crank where the preload cap goes. Shine a torch so there's light for the camera to see. Don't ride this yet.

Just to recap. How wide is the BB and how many spacers and where did you use?


Edit: I just saw your post about caps coming in different lengths. It makes sense that you have the wrong one. Looking at its head, it is too small too. Wrong cap. Assuming all else is right, it is safe to ride the bike but get a new cap (actually called a preload bolt).
 
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OP
OP
psmiffy
Location
Midlands
Assuming all else is right, it is safe to ride the bike

Not really - no wheels, no brakes - actually not much else apart from a bottom bracket - Just come back from my NVLBS - I was told there are 6 different lengths of pre-load cap - hope I have the right one now :tired:

I'm pretty sure that funny metal thing, the lock spacer should be down not sticking up.

yup - but not while you are messing - there to prevent you over-tightening the crank bolts
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Not really - no wheels, no brakes - actually not much else apart from a bottom bracket - Just come back from my NVLBS - I was told there are 6 different lengths of pre-load cap - hope I have the right one now :tired:



yup - but not while you are messing - there to prevent you over-tightening the crank bolts
The tag actually stops the crank arm falling off too by the little tang in it sitting in the machined groove in the through shaft.
 
OP
OP
psmiffy
Location
Midlands
The tag actually stops the crank arm falling off too by the little tang in it sitting in the machined groove in the through shaft.

and that as well ^_^
 

_aD

Do not touch suspicious objects
It's like reading my attempts at "fixing things I don't usually fix". Like that time I went to replace a spoke in the rear wheel and ended up having to take the thing apart, having purchased several new tools. It was nice to clean out and re-grease the cassette, hub et al, but I was expecting a rather simpler job :-D

I'm not alone! Thank the Eddington I'm not alone!
 
OP
OP
psmiffy
Location
Midlands
RIMG0020.JPG


The offending article fully installed - :rolleyes:
 

Bollo

Failed Tech Bro
Location
Winch
The tag actually stops the crank arm falling off too by the little tang in it sitting in the machined groove in the through shaft.
In an attempt for the world record for most OT post ever, I love the word 'tang'.

Glad you got it sorted @psmiffy. Apart from one bike, all mine have been hollowtech and they've been fine to ride and replace. My ride chum had an FSA (SLK I think so not cheap) chainset/BB that was made of the runniest cheese available. It nearly trashed his whole frame when the crank came loose.
 
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