My impulse-purchased turkey :(

[wafter]

Since cycling remains pretty much the only thing I find interesting or rewarding (yet I can't get out on the bike much currently) I've been self-indulgently clinging to the idea of a future "neo-retro" steel road bike build; researching the intricacies of marrying an old steel frame to a modern groupset and keeping an eye on the market for suitable candidate.

Long story short after a few beers I ended up arranging to look at something that looked like a good bet. I had a good list of points to check on the day but thanks to various factors really didn't pay nearly enough attention, got stiffed and ended up buying a rotter. Spoiler: amongst other things the frame is cracked

This isn't going into projects as I'm not even sure if I'll do anything with it and it might just get written off / punted on.

So here it is; presented for the entertainment of CC; and hopefully some advice as to how to proceed once the sniggering has died down...

On paper the bike looked good:
- Evidently the work of a small / custom frame builder
- Fitted STIs and 9-speed groupset, so correct rear axle spacing to take a current 11sp setup
- Forks with an internal crown (looks nicer and apparently something usually found on higher-end bikes)
- Reasonable spec components..

In practice the bike looks less good (some of which I spotted on the day, some I only discovered when getting it home - I'm sure it has more to give):
- Cracked seatpost tube
- Seized seatpost
- Generally very tatty frame / general condition
- Won't shift the full range of gears on the back (think this is just an adjustment problem)
- Play in front hub bearings

The frame is apparently a "Mick Gray"; a name I've not heard of before and there's scant info on the net about the guy. The seat tube is 57cm c-c, the top tube 58cm c-c so it's pretty stretched compared to what I'm used to (for reference my Routier has a 58.5-ish cm seat tube and 57.5cm top tube); especially given my short torso..

As it stands, according to my shonky bathroom scales the bike weighs around 10.2kg - which I think is pretty reasonable for an oldish steel frame with a mid-range groupset.

The bike has a full 105 5500 (I think) 2x9 groupset , which is a bit tatty but (rear shifting notwithstanding) all appears to work pretty well. Apparently this groupset was available from 1999 - 2006 IIRC, and given how complete it is would guess that it was original-fitment when this bike was new.

On top of the frame's already "generous" reach, the bike is fitted with a silly 125mm-ish stem. I think I'd need one of around 70mm to bring the reach to the bars closer to what I'm used to..

The headset is also 105. There's a braze-on front pump mount; although no corresponding rear mount; which I guess was probably removed when the bike was re-painted in the past. The lugs don't appear to be anything to elaborate - anyone recognise them?

The fork with its internal crown and recessed brake nut. Tyre clearance is huge. Cable guides are mis-matched..

The front wheel is a "Rolf Vector Pro" with a disconcertingly small amount (14) of aero-profile spokes with internal nipples. These seem to have been quite high-end wheels at one stage; with the rears having a bit of a rep for fragility - probably why the one on this bike doesn't match the front.

Pedals are LOOK Spds, which seem a bit posh (if tatty). The larger sprocket on the crankset is 53-tooth; couldn't be bothered to count the smaller one but I'd guess it's either a 42 or 39.

Compelling evidence that it's been re-sprayed; apparently Mick Gray has / had some association with API - so this would support the idea that the frame's what the stickers say it is..

More detailing of the bottom bracket shell and slightly unusual chainstay bridge...

The incorrectly-routed cables on the underside and pretty atrocious, wear-and-corrosion-courting integral cable guides.. there's no serial no. that I can see; note the single "S" stamped on the shell - given its positioning it'd not surprise me if there was some more letting under the filth..

...

 

[wafter]

...

The seatpost tube lug and seized post. I've bled a load of paraffin down into the gap, got it too hot to touch with a propane torch, had a 12mm bar through the tube trying to twist it free and smacked the top of the tube downwards with a hammer and wooden block - so far it refuses to move. Any ideas as to how to get the bloody thing out much gratefully received!

The crack in the seat post tube lug - extending downwards at about 7 O'clock I did check around most of the high-stress areas for cracks, but really should have paid more attention, totally forgot to check here and the crack only became apparant after cleaning off some of the filth..

The (again, fairly distinctive) brake bridge; which looks the same as those on other Mick Gray frames I've seen on the net and supports the idea that the frame is what it says..

The rear 105 caliper and assorted battle damage. While evidently not the same as the front, the rear wheel still appears a bit swanky from its spoke-count (24) however these are round with external nipples so evidently not as "special" as the one at the other end. Surprisingly both wheels run true and braking is good.

An odd and slightly concerning abrasion on the seatstay and caliper - stuggling to fathom how this might have happened and a little concerned about the depth of the damage on the frame..

The underside of the tatty Selle Italia saddle; dating it to 1997.

That's as deep as I've gone currently; feeling very much dejected at the magnitude of my folly. That said I didn't pay life-changing amounts of money for it so (damage to my ego aside) it wouldn't be the absolute end of the world if it's beyond redemption.

So, what do we reckon - is it too far gone? Is it possible / economically viable to repair or replace the cracked lug at the seatpost? Should I just write it off / break it for spares / punt it on (with full disclosure of course)..?

Really I feel sorry for the bike and think it's pretty good looking so would like to get it going if possible... that said I'm not going to throw silly amounts of good money after bad just to make myself feel better for buying such a turd.. and that of course assuming that it's geometry would even suit me if I did sort it out..

 

[ColinJ]

There must be a frame builder somewhere near you who could sort out any cracks? Whether it is worth doing is up to you.

I think those pedals are Look Deltas.

 

[fossyant]

TBH, that doesn't look too bad. If you are looking to re-spray it, I'd get the sander out, but also dig away at the crack as it may be paint only.

You could drill out the crack if there is one, and it's unlikely to cause problems if you are using a suitable length seat post.

As for removing a stuck seatpost - LBS or 'The Seatpost Man' if you can't budge it. Won't be cheap.

A 125mm stem is fine, 130mm's on my two vintage road bikes. !!!

The seat stay looks to have been scuffed, could easily happen if the bike is dropped, or badly lent on a wall.

 

[GuyBoden]

I've removed seat posts in the past with caustic soda. If the seatpost is at the correct height, you could just leave it.

caustic soda link:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/what-have-you-fettled-today.87079/page-362#post-4742595

Concerning the crack, the seat post lugs could be cut flush and a modern seatpost clamp used.

The rest of the bike just needs basic maintenance, ie greasing bearings, cleaning frame, anit-rust and new cables etc.

 

[chriswoody]

My first inclination is to say that it looks like it's the paint that's cracked rather than the actual tube, however, there is rust bubbling away on the inside. Personally I'd want to get that post removed and then strip back the paint from the area to really assess wether it is actually cracked or if it's paint only. As Colin mentions, because it's steel, then in all likely hood its repairable. I had a bottom bracket shell replaced in one frame a few years back now, the big question is wether it's worth going down that route for this frame, I'd get that seatpost out though and assess the damage before getting despondent.

On a positive note, you have at the very least picked up a bunch of components, that will be worth something to some one, or even for a project for you.

As for the seat post, I used Plus Gas (Used to be available in Halfords, not sure if it still is), on one reluctant seatpost. I removed the bottom bracket and poured some down the seatpost. It took a week of repeated applications of Plus Gas, plus some wiggling and jiggling to free it, but it did move.

Good Luck and don't get to despondent, many of us have jumped in and let our hearts rule our heads!

 

[fossyant]

Stip the bike of the components and give everything a good clean up. I refurbed my Ribble 653 a year ago. Mind you, it had been mine since new, but a little surface rust and scratches etc. Degreased all the components, polished up, then set about sanding down the frame. Took a few weeks, bit of work each night, but I'll admit, for a spray can job, it looks bloody amazing now in perlescent white.

 

[cyberknight]

im going with everyone else ,it looks like cracked paint but until its stripped you never know

 

[GuyBoden]

Repainting the bike could cost more than the bike is worth.

@biggs682 is the man to ask.

 

[Spiderweb]

Looks rather nice to me, painted by former pro cyclist Andy Palmer.

I have an old bike with a similar but slightly bigger crack in the same place as yours. This happened when my seat post clamp failed (bolt thread) about 25 miles from home, I sat on the saddle after the failure and presume it slightly enlarged the top of the seat tube. I had it checked out and was told it was a crack in the paint and nothing more. The crack has remained the same for 8000+ miles.

If you can sort out the seized seat post then it’ll be a user.
I wouldn’t repaint it, there is something quite charming about older bikes with a few battle scars.
Give the frame a good T Cut and Polish and clean up all components, I’d be happy riding that and not too worried about collecting other scratches and scrapes.

@wafter, can I ask how much you paid?

 

[GilesM]

I think it looks alright, get the seat post out and get it resprayed, would be perfect to continue with your "neo-retro" plan.

I agree with everyone else, I would say it's just the paint that's cracked, but if it is the frame tube, I'm sure it could be repaired, welded or brazed, a frame builder would be able to advise.
I've bought a lot worse stuff after a few beers.

 

[rogerzilla]

Drill a bigger hole to get rid of the crack. Get a bike shop to remove the seatpost, or saw and collapse it out. Seatposts of that era are often mercifully short. Caustic soda also works in 100% of alloy post/steel frame cases, but will damage the paint unless you are very careful.

 

[Cycleops]

Oh dear, what a catalogue of horrors.

I'd say the frame isn't worth bothering about. Getting the post out is going to ruin the finish if using caustic and then there's still the issue of the crack, all of which will necessitate a repaint, it's your call but I'd say not worth the expense/hassle.
Buy a new frame and transfer the parts. That's my take but as. I said it's down to you.
General wear on the parts doesn't look too good either due to the passage of time and wear. Those rims look like they're coming to the end of their life. Sorry.

And there was I thinking this going to be all about buying Christmas fare

 

[Once a Wheeler]

For getting out stuck seatposts and the like I use the Archimedes method ('Give me a point strong enough and a lever long enough and I will move the world.') It has never failed me but could conceivably bust the brazings in the seat cluster, so use your skill and judgement:

• Get a pipe wrench

• If you want to re-use the seat pillar, tape it up with handlebar tape, then cut a strip from a tin can with a pair of tin snips and wrap the strip round the pillar as a protective sleeve.
• Tighten the wrench onto the pillar or sleeve.
• Get a strong helper to hold the bike firmly by the handlebar stem and top-tube.
• Slide a length of gas pipe a metre or more long over the wrench handle.
• Gradually increase the force on the extended wrench until, usually with a disquieting screech or bang, the pillar turns and can be 'screwed' or zig-zagged out: as noted above, unless the brazings bust first, so take care!
• If this does not work, just keep extending the length of the gas pipe until it does.

Good luck.

 

[Cycleops]

Good idea @Once a Wheeler but with a lightweight frame like that it won't take much to bend it.