My first vintage bicycle

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thegravestoneman

three wheels on my wagon
Well said, think I should chance it? Fell sorry to discard lovely wheels, but it is extremely wet here ... and I did buy the leather backed pads, 2 sets of them. :rolleyes:
Then I came across Sheldon's article on steel rims where he said nobody in this day and age should use them because they are dangerous, so I chickened out.
Baring in mind my max speed is 5mph maybe I worry unduly :laugh:
You are right in that their performance can be outshone by many modern products, it won't be long until any form of rim braking will be a quaint old thing from the past. I have seen rims both steel and alloy worn completely through by the braking action especially when I used to see courier bikes come in. But as I ride antiques (wrecks) and also have recently owned cars with rod brakes too (Austin a35 and a40) I have to preach what I practice. You do tend to ride with a very wary eye and avoid situations completely before you get there. Caution is a very good watch word, and you don't appreciate modern standards without the old to compare it too.
 

stevevw

Guru
Location
Herts
Can I ask, you are talking about moving rust/corrosion, but how can you do it without actually scratching the surface in the process??

Thanks.


P.S. I'm starting to take notes here as I still have my ancient Humber to restore, and the 1967 Claude seems like the ideal project to start off with to learn.

P.P.S. Sorry for hijacking the thread.

Best way is to use a wad of kitchen foil doused in full fat coke. Works really well.
 
OP
OP
Keri Spring

Keri Spring

Regular
Location
Ashford, Kent
today's before and after... not so exciting and I think there's a bit of gleam left to come but this turned out to be a bit more labour intensive than the brakes. And advice on getting to the hub? Toothbrush? Wrapped in wire wool?

rims_zps13663fea.jpg
 

thegravestoneman

three wheels on my wagon
long bit of cloth ( two foot odd) as rough as possible( sack cloth maybe) soaked in plenty of whatever cleaner you are using (to great effect btw) put wheel in frame for support wrap cloth round hub through two of the larger adjacent gaps and pull cloth rigorously back and forth whilst holding frame with feet. If that makes any sense but I know what I mean at least :smile: it may be possible to wrap wire wool in the cloth and twist it round as if wringing it out? to give it some strength. Hubs are always a pain.
 
I did an easy 'rat rod restoration' on my girl's 50's Triumph which included replacing the wheels with a pair of 26 x 1 3/8 red anodized cycle speedway wheels plus whitewall tyres. Its in one of my albums on here i think.
 

Pat "5mph"

A kilogrammicaly challenged woman
Moderator
Location
Glasgow
Job well done Keri!
Are you not going to dismantle the wheel, take the hub out, clean it, put it all back together? ;)
Mind to take a picture of the "innards".
Not like me, had to google pictures of how to reassemble the lot: hope the wheel will not fall apart under me :biggrin:
 
OP
OP
Keri Spring

Keri Spring

Regular
Location
Ashford, Kent
I know I should but I'm a little scared to. I was impressed with myself that I managed to get the brake back together on my own! hmmmmm maybe I'll decide while I'm cleaning the other rim and enlist my husband. Do I have to get new ball bearings? (or are there no bearings in there? I really have no idea!)
 

Pat "5mph"

A kilogrammicaly challenged woman
Moderator
Location
Glasgow
should be bearings in both wheels or you wont get very far! ;)

Mr Sheldon recommends changing them, they aren't expensive if your just buying the balls, be more expensive if your converting to sealed bearings.

I bought mine for my wayfarer off these people, seemed pretty cheap for good quality. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-35mm-1-...cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item1e6e3c924b
Is it not easier to buy the caged bearings? Or do some bikes only take the loose ones?
Seems most of the ones I've dismantled so far had caged bearings in various states of disintegration :laugh:
 
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