My first vintage bicycle

[Mad Doug Biker]

Can I ask, you are talking about moving rust/corrosion, but how can you do it without actually scratching the surface in the process??

Thanks.

Please, this is obviously a really stupid question, but please don't ignore me, how do you go about doing it without damaging the surface or at least in the most gentlest way possible? Exactly what do you apply, etc etc?

I just thought given the context of this thread, more people than just myself might be interested in the answer.

 

[tyred]

Please, this is obviously a really stupid question, but please don't ignore me, how do you go about doing it without damaging the surface or at least in the most gentlest way possible? Exactly what do you apply, etc etc?

I just thought given the context of this thread, more people than just myself might be interested in the answer.

Localised application of wire wool and elbow grease.

Or the chemical method - http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/rust_remover_gel.jsp

 

[Mad Doug Biker]

Thanks

 

[porteous]

I've been cleaning down the Claude Butler Saphire I got from biggs with some Muck Off and..... erm.... the very untechnical method of knocking the caked on grott and oil off with a small chisel* (I was VERY careful not to scratch the paint work etc, although the paint needs to be seen too anyway). All that cleaning has worked wonders on several parts such as the chainring which is actually silver once more!!



* - Where I was working was right next to where the tools are kept in the garage, and I seem to be quite bad at just using the first useful thing which comes to hand, often using it for something it was never ever intended for.

Don't worry. Last Friday I removed a 64 year old threaded driver from a Sturmey Archer FW hub using a mattock and a 24" stilson wrench. Worked like a dream.

I always clean any new "project bike" using gunk or any good de-greaser, put it all over, scrobble into the awkward corners with a stiff paintbrush then leave a couple of hours and rinse off. You will be surprised how much "rust" it gets off, then use rerally fine wire wool (000 grade is good)

 

[Mad Doug Biker]

Don't worry. Last Friday I removed a 64 year old threaded driver from a Sturmey Archer FW hub using a mattock and a 24" stilson wrench. Worked like a dream.

I always clean any new "project bike" using gunk or any good de-greaser, put it all over, scrobble into the awkward corners with a stiff paintbrush then leave a couple of hours and rinse off. You will be surprised how much "rust" it gets off, then use rerally fine wire wool (000 grade is good)

Thanks, as I said, I was using Muck Off and the frame cleaned up quite well, but I imagine this 'gunk' of which you speak (I don't know it) might be good too!

Anyway, enough of hijacking this thread, good luck with Audrey Keri!!

 

[Keri Spring]

No idea how I missed all these replies. Thanks for all the advice everyone. I've started taking things apart bit by bit and cleaning as I go. I think I do want to stick with the original paintwork, but annoyingly at some point there seems to have been some black paint spilt on it! Will deal with that when I get to it. Spent last night cleaning up the rear brake which I had taken apart and tonight the brake levers get the special treatment. Will get started on the really mucky stuff like the chain and rear hub soon enough :-)

 

[Keri Spring]

I'm happy to be hijacked btw as I'll be picking up the tips everyone else needs too. I've ordered myself some oxalic acid to give a try on some parts as I've read a lot about it.

....as I side not, in case anyone was wondering, don't get rubbing compound in your eye it makes it quite sore! (got overexcited with the dremel last night!)

 

[thegravestoneman]

Keep going, It will be worth the hassle. If you are to use the bike regularly this will keep the rust off the wearing surfaces of the rims, the brakes will work better on the naked steel rather than chrome. I use a green scourer every now and again on my rims but a regular cleaning will keep the rust at bay. If you decide to replace the rims try to avoid Indian parts as I found out the chrome wears out within a fortnight of riding. Search for good used parts rather than re-manufactured new where possible. Look for leather brake pads which will work best unless you do a lot of wet weather riding as they will become drenched.

 

[porteous]

Don't worry. Last Friday I removed a 64 year old threaded driver from a Sturmey Archer FW hub using a mattock and a 24" stilson wrench. Worked like a dream.

I always clean any new "project bike" using gunk or any good de-greaser, put it all over, scrobble into the awkward corners with a stiff paintbrush then leave a couple of hours and rinse off. You will be surprised how much "rust" it gets off, then use really fine wire wool (000 grade is good)

 

[Keri Spring]

easily entertained on a Sunday afternoon...
before and after :-)

 

[smokeysmoo]

easily entertained on a Sunday afternoon...
before and after :-)

I love jobs like that. They cost basically nowt to do and the transformation looks like it's cost ££'s.

I wouldn't be re-using those old brake blocks though

Great job

 

[Keri Spring]

nope, that's why they're missing from the after picture. Have done front and rear brakes and pump clips. Now to start on something bigger or put on some washing... I know which will win!

 

[Kins]

What are you using to clean the nuts and washers?

 

[smokeysmoo]

What are you using to clean the nuts and washers?

Can't speak for the OP but I've used wire wool in the past.

 

[Keri Spring]

yep, fine wire wool. I've got a dremel with very fine attachment for any tough bits and use of a walnet shell tumbler for any bits I want particularly shiny :-)