Modify old bike or buy another?

[cyberknight]

Thats nothing I use 42x21 and I get up Norwood edge easy..... !🦵🤣

i had a bike 52/42 with a 13-19 block , hard man legs !!!

 

[sploo]

I have both double and triple chainset bikes.
My everyday bike Cannondale carbon, has a double 59/34 by11-36.

It's great for everyday riding audax etc. I can get up fleet moss with them.

My winter bike and touring bikes are triples which are great because in the flat you have the middle rings, but with hills or with baggage the small chainring is a blessing!

If you want to try one and your average size we could meet up for a ride?

59/34 is a big jump (or did you mean 50/34)?

I guess these days I'm probably pretty average size (5' 11"). My Allez is a size 58.

Unlike @Jameshow pretty much every bike I have runs a 52/36 double and an 11/28 rear cassette. It's OK on almost every gradient. Mine are medium sized as well.

I'm "gravitationally challenged"; so I wouldn't do too well with a 36T front and 28T rear

Be kind and replace the gear cables and outers. You may not have ridden this bike much, but the cables and outers are 17 years old! The sticky FD downshift symptom is exactly the result of cable friction.

I spent some time checking the gears over with the bike on the turbo trainer, and I noticed that when I shift from the middle to the smallest front chainring (which slackens the gear cable) the front derailleur does move fully across; even though the chain then remains on the middle ring for some time before eventually dropping down. I assume if the cable was sticking then it would prevent the derailleur from moving immediately?

As for wheelset, disregarding the reviews, what's deficient about your wheels? Given you haven't replaced the chain for 5 years, I infer you have cycled less than 1000 miles a year (average <20 a week). The Vision30 wheels are £220. And they go round. They have rather few spokes (not good).
If keeping bike, consider replacing tyres with decent ones (see other threads for interminable discussion on choices) and brake pads: I prefer Koolstop Dura2 Salmon, ?£10 a pair, particularly on the front.
The current Tiagra groupset is 10sp (in 2006 it was Sora 8sp, Tiagra 9sp and 105 10sp). Ignoring your chainset, you have Sora (8sp) and current (modern) Sora 9sp really only differs in the '+1' and the Campagnolo style downshift thumb lever on the STIs (as mentioned upthread).
No road bike likes trying to shift spockets under load nor to shift down to a smaller chain ring. Anticipation is key.
And that has not changed with "modern (or better) groupsets". You can get away with it in the smaller sprockets because it's a climb of only one tooth (so a 10 or 11sp helps there) but in the larger sprockets, which is where you'll be when, on a hill, you might wish to keep the power on and shift up (lower gear), the gaps will always be 2 or 3t (or even more with some 11sp outsized cassette (£50+) eg 11-36t).

So, noting the thread title, modify nothing, change the cables (that's all), and look out for a new and affordable (to you) bike with a sub-compact chainset, 11sp, probably hydraulic disc braked. There's a lot of 2020 and 2021 impulse bought bikes out there so you might find a bargain.

Good set of thoughts; thanks.

I know of nothing that's deficient about the current wheels; just that they were apparently considered a negative of the bike. I suppose lighter wheels would be nice, but I'm riding for health (not competition) so unless there was a big benefit to changing the wheelset I'd stick with what I have.

Unfortunately I've definitely done less than 20 miles per week over the last 5 years. That used to be the norm 20 years ago, but not now.

There's a barely used Allez on Marketplace for £300. Size 54. This is with a trainer and a new looking pair of shoes. You could easily sell them on if they were not for you.
What I would do is see what's available second-hand and also cost up exactly how much it would be to refurbish your bike, then decide what you want to do?

I think my legs would drag on the floor with a 54 unfortunately

The biggest problem I have (in terms of upgrading) is knowing what would be compatible; which I need to understand before I can choose parts. This thread is helping greatly though.

 

[Jameshow]

59/34 is a big jump (or did you mean 50/34)?

I guess these days I'm probably pretty average size (5' 11"). My Allez is a size 58.



I'm "gravitationally challenged"; so I wouldn't do too well with a 36T front and 28T rear



I spent some time checking the gears over with the bike on the turbo trainer, and I noticed that when I shift from the middle to the smallest front chainring (which slackens the gear cable) the front derailleur does move fully across; even though the chain then remains on the middle ring for some time before eventually dropping down. I assume if the cable was sticking then it would prevent the derailleur from moving immediately?


Good set of thoughts; thanks.

I know of nothing that's deficient about the current wheels; just that they were apparently considered a negative of the bike. I suppose lighter wheels would be nice, but I'm riding for health (not competition) so unless there was a big benefit to changing the wheelset I'd stick with what I have.

Unfortunately I've definitely done less than 20 miles per week over the last 5 years. That used to be the norm 20 years ago, but not now.


I think my legs would drag on the floor with a 54 unfortunately

The biggest problem I have (in terms of upgrading) is knowing what would be compatible; which I need to understand before I can choose parts. This thread is helping greatly though.

Sorry typo 50/34.

The closer you get to 1/1 chainring / sprocket the better tbh.

 

[Ajax Bay]

. . . I noticed that when I shift from the middle to the smallest front chainring (which slackens the gear cable) the front derailleur does move fully across; even though the chain then remains on the middle ring for some time before eventually dropping down. I assume if the cable was sticking then it would prevent the derailleur from moving immediately?

As for FD range of movement, unclamp the cable, manually push the FD/cage across to get the chain on middle and, turning the cranks, release. Does the chain drop down to the inner immediately? If no: sticky cables (it's not actually "moving fully across"). If yes: unscrew the L limit screw half a turn and repeat.
The cable should never actually become slack (you say "slackens the cable" above). When aligned with the inner ring (chain on largest rear spocket) there should be max 1mm gap between chain and cage in that configuration.

I've lost track of how old your cables are. Do yourself a quick an easy favour and just change them. And the outers (important).
If you wish to be frugal, change the rear and then use the original rear cable cut shorter for the front (but all new outers).

You can get a 28t ring with a 74mm BCD to replace the 30t inner and that'd give you 7% 'lower'/shorter gear. The chain will let you know if you go inner/small (cross chaining, inadvertently): just shift to middle.

 

[sploo]

As for FD range of movement, unclamp the cable, manually push the FD/cage across to get the chain on middle and, turning the cranks, release. Does the chain drop down to the inner immediately? If no: sticky cables (it's not actually "moving fully across"). If yes: unscrew the L limit screw half a turn and repeat.
The cable should never actually become slack (you say "slackens the cable" above). When aligned with the inner ring (chain on largest rear spocket) there should be max 1mm gap between chain and cage in that configuration.

I've lost track of how old your cables are. Do yourself a quick an easy favour and just change them. And the outers (important).
If you wish to be frugal, change the rear and then use the original rear cable cut shorter for the front (but all new outers).

You can get a 28t ring with a 74mm BCD to replace the 30t inner and that'd give you 7% 'lower'/shorter gear. The chain will let you know if you go inner/small (cross chaining, inadvertently): just shift to middle.

I'll try that (unclamping the cable); thanks.

Cables are all original, so circa 2006.

28T ring; good call - I did exactly that a couple of years ago. The bike was originally 52-42-30T front and 12-25T rear. I changed the cassette to a 11-30T Claris CS-HG50 (so 1:1 ratio in the lowest gear). I later changed the smallest front chainring with a 28T as I was still struggling up the steepest hills. I say steepest... I mean steepest for what I normally ride. I have ridden Norwood Edge... once. I had to stop at the car park to put my lungs back in.

 

[BrumJim]

Upgraded my 2009 Specialised Allez from 2300 (sub Claris?) 8 speed to 105 11 speed a number of years ago due to a failure of the shifters, and didn't regret it. Although I did have a replacement set of wheels ready to be fitted that were compatible with 11 speed hubs.

Wheels have been upgraded as I either wore them out or broke them.

The Allez was a good frame that was dimensionally identical to the carbon equivalent, and had a lifetime guarantee.

No chance of fitting disc brakes. Frame and forks aren't compatible.

Good call? Yes. The new groupset made it feel like a new bike, other than under the bottom where a familiar saddle was of benefit. It has since done a lot more miles without much trouble, other than those caused by the person on top of it.

I have since bought a carbon gravel bike, as the disc brakes make stopping in the wet less heart-stopping, allows me to ride with my son on paths, and gives me a shot at some Cyclo-cross fun should I feel the need. But today, rode into work on my old Specialised Allez, as I often do.

 

[sploo]

I popped into the Specialized store in Harrogate today to get some new gear cables. Although I've not fitted them yet I gave the bike a good clean and gave the front derailleur limit screws some attention. I've certainly got it better; it's not shifting perfectly across all gears, but the middle to smallest chainring shift is a little quicker now (though I only had chance to ride the bike on the turbo trainer).

The biggest mistake I made was hopping on a new Roubaix SL8 Sport 105. And now a want one... but my bank balance doesn't.

It's perfectly good logic to use the old Allez on the turbo trainer (where's it's working OK), and get a new bike specifically for riding on the road, isn't it.

 

[ColinJ]

It's perfectly good logic to use the old Allez on the turbo trainer (where's it's working OK), and get a new bike specifically for riding on the road, isn't it.

Yes!

I have one of my old bikes permanently on my turbo trainer.

 

[Chislenko]

Yes!

I have one of my old bikes permanently on my turbo trainer.

Me too and by coincidence with the OP it is my Allez Sport. I stuck my very old Kysrium wheels on it as brake track (or lack of) doesn't matter on the trainer.

 

[sploo]

Two replies and neither of you are trying to talk me out of buying a new bike. A poor example sensible financial advise gents

 

[Jameshow]

Rubbish bike esp the geometry, the foil shaped tubes, future shock and the only 105 groupset....🤣

Btw if you ever come riding with me I have a policy of you ride mine I ride yours!🤣

Nice bike btw!

 

[DCLane]

@sploo - I'd suggest getting the Allez working, then go riding to see if you enjoy it.

Your Allez would make a useful turbo trainer bike in the summer and winter bike when it's cold and wet outside.

 

[cyberknight]

@sploo - I'd suggest getting the Allez working, then go riding to see if you enjoy it.

Your Allez would make a useful turbo trainer bike in the summer and winter bike when it's cold and wet outside.

indeed N+1
always handy to have a back up bike in case one is in need of repair.

 

[biggs682]

indeed N+1
always handy to have a back up bike in case one is in need of repair.

Utter tosh anybody who calls themselves a cyclist has to have at least n+3 just in case

 

[Aristotle Kristatos]

Utter tosh anybody who calls themselves a cyclist has to have at least n+3 just in case

3-5 is a more sensible idea with spares that enable the construction of at least another bike.🚲😁