Maintenance: Chain stretch, replace or upgrade

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My winter hack's chain is stretched, clearly at 1.0 using chain measure tool. I really hate the setup on it and find the gear changing clunky despite replacing gear cables and getting the hanger aligned. I'm not sure if this is because the acera equipment is ancient (and crap?), or because of wear from the stretched chain. The cassette and chain ring are not yet ninja starred' but I secretly want to run it all into the ground so I can justify a new ride.

So here is the dilemma, drop more $$$ on a better second hand bike for winter fun, or upgrade the whole drivetrain for winter miles?

Also, what is likely to happen if I continue to run a stretched chain other than accelerated wear on the cassette, chainring and jockies?
 
It'll break eventually, but before that it'll start to slip - all of which could result in pain and injury.

I would have died of shame long before now.
 

boydj

Legendary Member
Location
Paisley
You may already have reached the point where the cassette will need to be replaced if you replace the chain. I'd go for chain, cassette, mech and cable - maybe better quality if you can afford it. That should improve the quality of the shifting.
 

zacklaws

Guru
Location
Beverley
I rode a Raleigh Milk Race for over twenty years, for leisure at first, then as an old hack commuting on it in its latter days and never changed anything on the drive train and it still ran smoothly, till about two years ago I decided to change the chain like I do on all my other bikes and found that everything needed changing so I decided to scrap it and since then, its propped up against the fence and a bit loath to put it in the skip or I may rebuild it
 

mrandmrspoves

Middle aged bald git.
Location
Narfuk
Even the most basic Shimano derailleurs should achieve clean shifts if tuned correctly. The Acera is pretty basic - but I wouldn't describe it as crap. I have in the past ridden bikes equipped with Shimano Tourney Derailleurs - and even they could manage a crisp gear change.
 
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confusedcyclist

confusedcyclist

Veteran
You may already have reached the point where the cassette will need to be replaced if you replace the chain. I'd go for chain, cassette, mech and cable - maybe better quality if you can afford it. That should improve the quality of the shifting.
would the crank/chainring need replacing too?
 
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confusedcyclist

confusedcyclist

Veteran
The bike is heavy, but my main gripe is with it is the poor shifting. I suppose buying a entirely new bike would be a bit of a luxury. I may as well replace the drivechain in January. If I could sort the shifting I suppose it would be a lot more tolerable to ride despite the weight.

Even the most basic Shimano derailleurs should achieve clean shifts if tuned correctly. The Acera is pretty basic - but I wouldn't describe it as crap. I have in the past ridden bikes equipped with Shimano Tourney Derailleurs - and even they could manage a crisp gear change.

I think these components have just had it, its 10 year old bike but hardly used to my knowledge. Took the bike the LBS for the front and rear derailleur adjustment and hanger alignment after sheer frustration with fixing the poor shifting myself. I'm quite surprised they had not pointed out the chain was stretched. I'll think twice before going back there. I've wasted well over £60 on the bike, buying parts, taking to the LBS, changing cables etc hence my desire to run it in to the ground and have an excuse to replace it! :biggrin:
 
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I've wasted well over £60 on the bike
'Wasted' money on a bike? Just not possible. It's never wasted on a bike.

Try government minister language instead if it makes you feel better
I've invested well over £60 on the bike
 
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confusedcyclist

confusedcyclist

Veteran
It's wasted when it rides like crap and your chain still slips when pulling away at the lights ! :smile:

Worked out I can replace the entire drivetrain minus the chain ring if I can get away with it for as little as investing another £44. Just to need to work out if the cassette mounts to a freehub or is the old style screw on (forget the name).
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
It'll break eventually, but before that it'll start to slip - all of which could result in pain and injury.

I would have died of shame long before now.

Nearly lost a bollock 2 winters ago when my chain slipped because the chain and chainring were well worn, (I had a SRAM Red groupset ready to go on in the Spring so delayed changing anything...). In the process of nearly smashing my testicles, I ended up in the oncoming lane, with a gash in my calf from the chainring, snapping one cleat in half from tearing my foot out of the pedal and then wearing out both cleats skidding my feet along the ground as I brought the bike, which was bucking and bolting, with me sat on the top tube, to a halt!

Just put a new chain on it!
 
It's wasted when it rides like crap and your chain still slips when pulling away at the lights ! :smile:

Worked out I can replace the entire drivetrain minus the chain ring if I can get away with it for as little as investing another £44. Just to need to work out if the cassette mounts to a freehub or is the old style screw on (forget the name).
I ignored a jumping chain for several months, or just put it into a gear that wasn't jumping (worn cassette) until the chain broke pulling away from some lights and I had to push the bike home. Never had to change the chainring but I rarely shift off it to middle ring (mtb setup) and don't think I've ever used the inner ring.
Cassette is s stupid easy diy job if you have the spanner for it.
 

sreten

Well-Known Member
Location
Brighton, UK
Hi,

Replace the chain. If you don't you'll ruin the rear cassette and eventually the front,
meanwhile have rubbish rear gear changing, and eventually slipping on the rear
whilst your pointlessly ruining the front.

What is 1 on your chain measuring tool ?

rgds, sreten.
 
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