Jowwers, I've had a good look at the two links you provide. There is NO data in there relating to either puncture protection or rolling resistance.i think there is plenty of independant tests out there that proves conti to be true.........best you go read them, unless you've got your own technical data available to prove otherwise. if the latter is to be true, then maybe you should provide a link to this data, rather than just calling people out as conforming to authority.
i look forward to reading your data and then forming my own opinion based on relevant data provided.
i think i said independant data - not data within the linksJowwers, I've had a good look at the two links you provide. There is NO data in there relating to either puncture protection or rolling resistance.
Puncture protection should be quoted in Joules of energy applied to a given needle/blade dimension required to penetrate a certain thickness of said material.
Rolling resistance is quoted in Newtons of force.
I see lots of fancy graphs and marketing bumph but no data.
As contrary information I supply the following facts:
1)Rolling resistance is a function of tyre compound, casing construction and overall thickness. Thinner is better, silica is better than carbon black. I have already said what casing construction is optimal and what rubber compound is optimal.
2) Puncture resistance (assuming a given spike/blade) is dependent on: a) Material thickness, lubricity of the entry point (water on the road), thickness of the casing plies and compound of the rubber/puncture protection layers. The compound of such a layer must have a high toughness, thus high hysteresis and hence high rolling resistance. By definition it has to absorb energy. Whether it absorbs the spike's energy or rolling energy, it has to be energy hungry.
These two properties are in direct contrast with each other. More puncture protection causes higher rolling resistance and conversely. Making the matter even worse, the rubber with the lowest rolling resistance is a silica rubber (all coloured tyres have silica (sand) as a filler, even some black ones) displays the poorest durability and wet traction.
It is a matter of physics, not marketing that dictates these things.
I am sure where you live you can find a good library that can corroborate what I state here. No need to take my word for it.
You haven't.I've already got that covered with thicker tubes.
@jowwy you've linked to GP4000S II but these tyres are not an option for the OP: "The new sizes of 23-571, 20-622 and 28-622 cover a broader range of customer requirements," - not broad enough for the OP who has specified 1 1/4" (ie 622-32). And that's the point: there are several candidate tyres at 28 but at 32 the light/fast options are very limited. What's your recommendation to the OP @jowwy ?
Some 28s on wider rims come up in size.......my 28mm conti 4000s II size up to 30mm. So i would still say gp4000s II@jowwy you've linked to GP4000S II but these tyres are not an option for the OP: "The new sizes of 23-571, 20-622 and 28-622 cover a broader range of customer requirements," - not broad enough for the OP who has specified 1 1/4" (ie 622-32). And that's the point: there are several candidate tyres at 28 but at 32 the light/fast options are very limited. What's your recommendation to the OP @jowwy ?
You haven't.
Tubes are only soft rubber and once the tyre has been penetrated the tube has no chance. A thicker tube might buy you a few yards, but nothing more.
My reading of it was that she wants 27 inch x 11/4, rather than 700c, so 630-32, not 622-32, which limits her options even more.
TBF, he doesnt actually say 'he would even consider the more expensive one with puncture protection if it was faster'...he says 'BUT, They're higher priced but I think it's because of the added puncture protection'...he at no stage says puncture protection is a requirement or important to him, but does say speed is.
I interpret that to mean the puncture protection is a facet of a particular tyre that is there, but not neccessarily of importance to him.
Perhaps Moongaze can clarify. It seems quite clear to me...but i'll happily shut up if i'm wrong.
As a side issue....i agree, thicker tubes will give little or no extra puncture protection.
What sort/make of inner tubes are they?I have thicker thorn resistant tubes.
And from the rollingresistance site, testing these tyres in 23/25/28 flavour, "on a 17C rim and an air pressure of 100 psi, all versions of the GP4000S II are a bit wider than specified. With the 23C being 25 mm wide, 25C 27 mm wide and the 28C a whopping 31 mm wide."Some 28s on wider rims come up in size.......my 28mm conti 4000s II size up to 30mm. So i would still say gp4000s II
He's going to chuck it and replace with a GP 4 Seasons (which have too high a rolling resistance to meet your criteria).Yesterday my one ride old gp4000s II lost in a fight with a sharp object and sustained a cut all the way through to the tube....resulting in a blow-out.
Im chucking it cause its ruined.......and its the first one ive ruined in 3years of commuting on them. The reason im using 4 seasons is because i have a set already in the shed. Gp4000s II will still be used at weekends on the best bike.You did say you didn't want p***ture protection, didn't you @moongaze and your thicker inners will sort that for you? @jowwy 's recommendation is the Conti 4000S II but from a thread he's just started:
He's going to chuck it and replace with a GP 4 Seasons (which have too high a rolling resistance to meet your criteria).