Linear Pull V-Brake Set Up

[rogerzilla]

Also, if you're using levers designed for caliper brakes, cantis, or discs, you're on a hiding to nothing.

 

[plastic_cyclist]

No, the wheels are not true now you mention it, as I tighten up the quick release on the front and it does make things a lot tighter sometimes, then I re-adjust the wheel until its more free. Well, I'm glad I posted this up, as if you recall earlier in 2020 I had a pretty bad crash due to these exact brakes (which caused quite a long thread!) failing on both front and back down a steep hill, and they aren't filling me with confidence still. Since then I have a new bike which has discs so this cross bike is more for winter, which is even more so of importance that brakes are tip top condition in the adverse weathers.

I always think I should attempt to do any servicing or maintenance on a bike myself, I'm not bad at that kind of stuff, however when it comes to stopping, I may be forced to take this into the old LBS.

 

[weareHKR]

when it comes to stopping, I may be forced to take this into the old LBS.

Looking at the washer arrangement on those brakes, I think that is a very wise decision...

 

[T4tomo]

this cross bike is more for winter, which is even more so of importance that brakes are tip top condition in the adverse weathers.

does this cross bike have flat bars or drop bars?

If it has drop bars then you need cantilever brake, not the V-brakes you have.

If it has flat bars the V brakes are appropriate, but you need to sort out the washer arrangement as many have pointed out, and you may need to tweak the balancing screws on either side so both blocks meet / grip the rim at the same time.

 

[plastic_cyclist]

Drop Bars

 

[plastic_cyclist]

Aren't Linear-pull or v-brakes just an evolved version of cantilever brakes that provide more power through increased leverage?
And why would the company who made the bike use the incorrect braking system?

 

[fossyant]

It's the way you've got them set up. As a minimum new inner cable and ditch all those washers between the pad and the caliper arm. It's a right mess.

 

[Big John]

All the advice given has been given assuming you have the proper brake levers. V brakes won't work with your levers, not properly anyway. Cantilevers work but not v brakes. Your best bet is to get dual pivot brake calipers. Had we all seen your levers I think the entire thread would have taken a different tack 😉

I guess because you have the fittings on your forks the bike was originally kitted out with cantis. You could go down that route but if it were me I'd fit dual pivot. Someone at some time has decided to put v brakes on but they weren't on that bike originally.

 

[Ajax Bay]

if you're using levers designed for caliper brakes, cantis, or discs, you're on a hiding to nothing.

This.

in 2020 I had a pretty bad crash due to these exact brakes (which caused quite a long thread!) failing on both front and back down a steep hill

Not surprised. The brakes fitted are for a 'mountain bike': normal V-brakes (see OP image) to be used with flat-bar brake levers. They'll not work properly with road STIs (see image above).

All the advice given has been given assuming you have the proper brake levers. V brakes won't work with your levers, not properly anyway. Cantilevers work but not v brakes. Your best bet is to get dual pivot brake calipers. Had we all seen your levers I think the entire thread would have taken a different tack 😉

For this 'cross' bike, mini-Vs are maybe the solution (not expensive - see link); or cantis. Mini-Vs are specifically designed for the pull ratios a drop bar brake lever offers.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/tektro-926al-mini-v-brake/rp-prod34580

 

[Ajax Bay]

I tighten up the quick release on the front and it does make things a lot tighter sometimes, then I re-adjust the wheel until its more free.

Would you care to elaborate? What sort/make/model of front hub? A QR just needs to be 'dent-in-palm' tight. "Re-adjust the wheel" in what way? "More free" in what way?

 

[plastic_cyclist]

Oh man, its so tough being a noob even after 1 year!!

When I tighten the QR lever it seems to seize the whole wheel in-between the pads (i.e. wheel doesn't spin) - then I release it, adjust again maybe loosen the QR a touch, and when its clipped back in, wheel now spins (more freely).

This makes sense also as I wondered why the arm of the brake seemed to catch the fork as it sprung back, there is a wear mark on the fork as if the brake isn't in the right position (see second photo)

 

[plastic_cyclist]

Okay, so I enquired about the original brakes to the original shop it was purchased from and sent my photos:

"We are currently fully booked up for servicing for the next 2-3 weeks.
The brakes on this model of Tri-Cross are original and are compatible with drop and flat bar brake systems.
However, they are probably best suited to flat bar brake levers and not STI levers. The later V-brakes were slightly shorter to reduce any flex but eventually, they were changed to disc brakes.
Please get in touch in a couple of weeks to see how we are placed to take in bikes for servicing if you still require this to be done.

Kind Regards

Colin Murray
Nicholsons Dundee"

Hmm, strange.

 

[rogerzilla]

V-brakes with normal levers require the pads to run with minimal clearance to the rim, which means they rub on climbs. There is a risk of running out of lever travel, too.

It sounds as if these are "mini Vs", which sort of work with normal levers.

 

[Ajax Bay]

It sounds as if these are "mini Vs", which sort of work with normal [road] levers.

Roger - I think that the brakes fitted - see image in OP, are 'normal' V-brakes and so the amount of cable an STI can pull will not operate them satisfactorily, you've given the limitations. Now compare that OP image with the mini-Vs I shared an image of.
The OP crashed this bike and damaged himself because both front and rear brakes (mysteriously) failed on a steep (assumed) downhill.
I think we can surmise why.
Edit: there is a wear mark on the fork (see latest post by OP). This wear is probably caused by the 'long' brake arms flexing under load and pushing the brake block bolt/washers onto the fork blade.

 

[figbat]

Did Specialized supply the Tricross with v-brakes and drop bars? I’d say not, so it looks like something odd going on.