Kinetics 8-speed SA fitting

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OP
OP
srw

srw

It's a bit more complicated than that...
I'm back to square one - again. Having fitted new brake levers and rear cables (the Evans standard hybrid/mountain bike brake cable kit doesn't inlcude a long enough front cable for a Brompton, or enough outer. Grrr...) I took the bike out for a final check this afternoon. Instead of a nice easy ride around the streets of the town I found myself walking back uphill with a broken gear cable. When I've got more time and patience I'll check what's going on, but I suspect that I failed to wrap the gear cable all the way around the groove in the changer on the hub, instead letting it ride across a sharp edge.

Now I need to work out how to open up the lever to find where to insert a new cable...
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
I fitted some low rise bars to mine as I had a spare set lying around and fitted bar end so I could stretch out the riding position a little.

But I started with a H type as I wanted to ensure enough ground clearance when fully folded.

I used this diagram to work out that the H type handlebar clamp was about the same height as the S type.

13119742_10153387180356021_8038669106580357512_o.jpg


And then ended up with this set up:

13118945_10153387180656021_1191162474287702615_n.jpg


I took this much off the bars (so they're actually only about 4cm wider than the M type bars the bike came with).

13076820_10153387180611021_9056043445293047079_n.jpg


And it all folds rather nicely:

13124494_10153387180821021_5151761955718171106_n.jpg
You need a sharper saw or a better technique. My metalwork teacher would have had you in detention for that effort.
 

12boy

Guru
Location
Casper WY USA
Easiest way is to use plumbers, copper pipe cutters. They cut aluminum easily and make the cut straight and true all the way around.They will cut normal bars, road or mountain although I don,t know about 31.8. Still, I don't think folders usually use that size.
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
I know, I know.

When I rode mountain bikes in the late 80's early 90's it was all about flat bars and bar ends. The thought of putting them on risers (not that anyone rode risers at that point) was sacrilege.

Even the last MTB I bought in 2000 I had the choice of flats or risers. As I like bar ends, I went for flats.

I've just resurrected that bike and had to buy some risers and it's still too low at the front end for me these days.

I'm also in the process of rebuilding my 1994 Orange P7 and I know I'm not actually going to be able to ride it when it's done as I'm now double the age I was when I got that. And I simply can't manage that arse up, head down riding position any more.

I managed to put my back out last year on my road bike and have two compressed discs in my back, so anything I can do to get the seat and bars at about the same height is worth it for me - despite how it looks, or how my teenage self would have ridiculed it.
Or how badly it compromises the ride/handling as a result of changing the weight distribution on the bike...? ;)
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
Now I need to work out how to open up the lever to find where to insert a new cable...
Let me know how you get on. When I asked about the principle SJS told me I had to buy a new shifter which comes with the inner cable already fitted. £40 I think.
 
OP
OP
srw

srw

It's a bit more complicated than that...
Let me know how you get on. When I asked about the principle SJS told me I had to buy a new shifter which comes with the inner cable already fitted. £40 I think.
Unlike. I've found them online for £30.
 

Kell

Veteran
Or how badly it compromises the ride/handling as a result of changing the weight distribution on the bike...? ;)

Badly? It's been a massively positive change as far as I'm concerned. The bike is very stable at speed (recorded a 44.4mph downhill near me). It's much less twitchy when you're out the saddle because the bars are wider and, for the most part, the weight is further forward when leaning on them.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wNkVZltMfw
 
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GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
Badly? It's been a massively positive change as far as I'm concerned. The bike is very stable at speed (recorded a 44.4mph downhill near me). It's much less twitchy when you're out the saddle because the bars are wider and, for the most part, the weight is further forward when leaning on them.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wNkVZltMfw

I was referring to the P7
 
OP
OP
srw

srw

It's a bit more complicated than that...
Let me know how you get on. When I asked about the principle SJS told me I had to buy a new shifter which comes with the inner cable already fitted. £40 I think.
I had enough slack in the cable(s) to shorten them. I've now got what seems to be a functioning gear system - but only with a slack chain. THe gizmo that screws on to the cable and then fixes to the gear changer on the hub is fouling the chain tensioner - which was, I think, the root cause of all the trouble. There's no possibility of paring a bit off the tensioner, but it looks as though if I can find a spacer to go inside the first doobrie on the drive side (the doobrie with the bent over bit that sticks in the slot in the frame) then the tensioner will be far enough out not to foul. Unfortunately (inevitably) I don't possess such a spacer. I've got a nylon washer, but the hole is too small and isn't enlarging easily, and inner tube just fouls everything and gets crushed.

Bah humbug.
 
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cisamcgu

Legendary Member
Location
Merseyside-ish
It is rather looking like I won't be going down this route ... too much worry, too much stress, even if the problems are not insurmountable in the end. Basically, if I pay the money I expect it to work :sad:

@srw thank you so much for the ongoing thread
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
It is rather looking like I won't be going down this route ... too much worry, too much stress, even if the problems are not insurmountable in the end. Basically, if I pay the money I expect it to work :sad:

@srw thank you so much for the ongoing thread
I paid the money. It worked.

Bromptons are no more precision engineered than the next bike, dropouts misaligned, rear triangles poorly cold set, et cetera, et cetera.
 

snorri

Legendary Member
It is rather looking like I won't be going down this route ... too much worry, too much stress, even if the problems are not insurmountable in the end. Basically, if I pay the money I expect it to work :sad:
Yip, best move along, I discovered paying the money and expecting it to work was the wrong mindset for dealing with that company:sad:.
 
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