mrandmrspoves
Middle aged bald git.
- Location
- Narfuk
Quick links are the way to go. I would recommend that every cyclist carries one in their on the road repair kit.
Is my chain splitter rubbish?
- Thread starter MattDB
- Start date
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dddd
Regular
- Location
- So-far dry California
I was given one of Shimano's basic chain tools when I attended one of their tech seminars, over ten years ago.
I've used that basic 10-speed-compatible model to break perhaps thousands of chains, and it appears it will last forever.
Looks about like an old Rivoli, but it's the smoothest I've ever used for breaking modern chain. The original pin is still arrow-straight and not even a burr on it!
I used many other brands in the past and never had one that didn't at least end up with a mangled or broken pin before too long, or became quite hard to turn.
I've used that basic 10-speed-compatible model to break perhaps thousands of chains, and it appears it will last forever.
Looks about like an old Rivoli, but it's the smoothest I've ever used for breaking modern chain. The original pin is still arrow-straight and not even a burr on it!
I used many other brands in the past and never had one that didn't at least end up with a mangled or broken pin before too long, or became quite hard to turn.
RichardB
Slightly retro
- Location
- West Wales
The pin has to deliver immense pressure to the chain link, hence the very fine thread to multiply the torque from your fingers. However, fine threads are prone to being stiff through the increased friction of the mating surfaces. I always run some light oil onto the thread of any chain splitter and spin the thread end to end a couple of times before starting on the actual job, so that every turn of the thread has a light coating of oil. As long as the pin is exactly aligned with the pin in the chain, it should push it out with firm pressure. The only problems I have had with chain splitters (bicycle or motorbike) have been when I have failed to align them correctly, and this usually ends with a snapped pin on the splitter. With motorbike chains, it is usually easier if you remove the peening on the link with an angle grinder first, but I wouldn't have thought that was necessary with a bicycle chain. Just a thought.
Smokin Joe
Squire
- Location
- Bare headed cyclist, Smoker
The more powerful the splitter the less chance of misalignment and broken pins. It's when you're struggling with some inadequate piece of junk that happens.
overmind
My other bike is a Pinarello
- Location
- Reading, Berkshire
I have a decathlon chain spitter. Its probably not Park Tools quality but I have split/joined dozens of chain with it and it is still going strong. Sorry for the big image below. I could not figure out how to reduce the size.
To split a bmx Gusset model "tank" chain, being a 1/8" width with 3/16" plates, the impressive looking heavy IceToolz Pro didn't work - a chain link didn't even fit the thing. While it did fit in the small ParkTool CT-5, and also succeeded splitting, but it was a very hard and slow job to do so, clearly the CT-5 wasn't strong enough to survive any slightest out of center - going.
I finally found a tool that is sold under the code YC-324, also present in some bicycle toolkits. It's the best chain tool I've found so far. The back (against which is pressed) is mounted on thread so adjustable to fit any chain, and it has a small fixing bolt so that you can "remember" to which point you have to turn in order to get the pin just before the farest plate without pushing it out entirely.
And it wasn't expensive, under 20 British Pound (have seen 15).
Another difference between the IceToolz Pro and the YC-324 is that when you turn the handle of the former, you can see that the pin has more tolerance, making a skew off more likely. The YC-324 doesn't show any visible deviation when turning, possibly due to a more precise thread.
I finally found a tool that is sold under the code YC-324, also present in some bicycle toolkits. It's the best chain tool I've found so far. The back (against which is pressed) is mounted on thread so adjustable to fit any chain, and it has a small fixing bolt so that you can "remember" to which point you have to turn in order to get the pin just before the farest plate without pushing it out entirely.
And it wasn't expensive, under 20 British Pound (have seen 15).
Another difference between the IceToolz Pro and the YC-324 is that when you turn the handle of the former, you can see that the pin has more tolerance, making a skew off more likely. The YC-324 doesn't show any visible deviation when turning, possibly due to a more precise thread.
