I cured my creaking - Cannodnale Synapse alloy

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Tojo

Über Member
For a few days I had a terrible creaking coming from my Cannondale synapse Alloy 2014.

Having convinced myself it was my seat post, I took it out and regressed it.

The creaking continued.

I decided it was coming from the handlebar area. So I watched the GCN video in headset servicing, and dropped out my forks. Would you Adam & Eve it, the headset bearings were about as dry as Ghandi's flip flop.

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With the bearings having no markings, I got out my steel ruler and measured them. I ordered some new bearings of ebay size 1-1/8'' Size:30.2X41.8X6.5/45°X45° and replaced the dried up old ones.

Creaking resolved. Silence is golden.

So please remember to look after your balls. I will be servicing mine once a year from now on.


Yes, the best thing to do is take out those stupid bearing carriers and just stick in you're own greased balls....:bravo:
 
D

Deleted member 1258

Guest
Blimey - for years I had wondered about the tiny mudguards that sometimes used to be fitted to old bikes. Clearly they wouldn't keep the rider dry OR riders behind. I hadn't thought about them keeping crud out of headsets (and brakes)! :laugh:

I remember the little mudguards, I used to hate the cold and wet muddy streak up my back in bad weather, these days I'll use full mudguards only if I can.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
I remember the little mudguards, I used to hate the cold and wet muddy streak up my back in bad weather, these days I'll use full mudguards only if I can.
Yes, not pleasant! I have Crud Roadracers squeezed onto my Basso and ride that bike in bad weather. I have a set of mudguards to put on my CX bike but will have to bodge the stays slightly to fit round its disk rotors.
 
D

Deleted member 1258

Guest
Yes, not pleasant! I have Crud Roadracers squeezed onto my Basso and ride that bike in bad weather. I have a set of mudguards to put on my CX bike but will have to bodge the stays slightly to fit round its disk rotors.

Yes I have a pair of Giant road fenders on my Eastway, they don't quite fit on the back, I have them cable tied to the seat tube just above the front mech, and both mudguards have a cut away on them which means theres no protection for the headset. The Eastway is tight on the clearances and the rain blades I originally brought wouldn't fit, I've still got them upstairs.

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/gear/product/giant.road.fenders/592/54781/


http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Raleigh-Rain-Blades-Mudguard-Set_76049.htm
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
Copper slip is better than grease at the seat tube / seat post interface (assumes both metal).
That's what it was.... But it doesn't roll off the tongue so easily to say I copper slipped my seat post!

I could see one dry bit and the rest still had the remnants of old copper slip on it.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
The concept of the copper (or nickel or whatever is chosen based on between what materials it will be used), like @Drago said is to provide a sacrificial anode. In other words, instead of the steel and aluminium post and frame to be anode and cathode, the copper becomes the anode [for both] and gets used up.

grease (of virtually any flavour) or vaseline will do as anti-seize. But given a 100 year supply of coppaslip is maybe a fiver I'd just get the right stuff.

use copper compound. The copper does two things, it provides a sacrificial anode to prevent galvanic corrosion and, copper has a low shear strength which helps other metals slide against each other under high pressure. Often, grease promotes galvanic corrosion and in some cases where the grease is massaged in the presence of water, it forms an emulsion that's deadly for some parts like seatposts and quill stems.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
You can fix the annoying ticking noise form my CAAD5 for me now! :okay:

I have convinced myself that it is from the chainring bolts, but maybe it is from elsewhere. I certainly never considered looking at the headset.

its not the headset.

So, is it ...?
  • The chainring bolts
  • The stem
  • The bars
  • The chain
  • The bottom bracket
  • The cranks/crank bolts
  • The pedals/cleats
  • The seat post
  • The saddle
  • My knees/ankles
:whistle: :laugh:

nope, its none of those.

For those who've never seen this, it's worth a read...

http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
It's none of those either!

But ... I THINK I have finally found out what the problem was! I have only sprinted up a couple of short local hills to test the bike since my 'fix' but the noise was absent, and it was there before the fix.I will report back after a decent test ride.
 

kipster

Guru
Location
Hampshire
To chip in, I had an annoying creak that I was convinced was the headset, the bearings had a little play but new ones didn't cure. Being a carbon frame i then thought I had a problem with the frame but couldn't see any cracks anywhere so took the seatpost out, cleaned, greased, carbon paste etc, no joy. I had been meaning to buy a torque wrench for some time but hadn't got around to it, I was a little surprised to find I was seriously underestermating the tightness of things, seat post clamp was at 2nm, torqued it up and creaking gone.
 
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