Hollowtech 2 Gap?

[Thomk]

although all Shimano 'road' HTII BBs and chainsets should be compatible, IME if you mix them, things like the 'little gaps' you have had trouble with do seem to appear - I always keep the chainset and BB matching for this reason.

Yep I get your point. I did have sora cranks on before these ones though albeit a different (older) version with the same BB and don't remember there being a gap.

 

[Andrew_P]

Mine is closer than that, if you have the tool for the plastic centre I would loosen it off & the bolts and tap it with a rubber mallet until its closer. If no tool take it back and ask the shop to do it.

 

[TissoT]

Thomk : A lot of the hollow tec BB are compatible there is a small few that are not and when they are fitted they stand out like a sore thumb if they are not compatible . in your picture its looks as it should look ..all this mention of cross threading etc is nonsense You need a 2/3 mm cap from the crank arm to hollow tec cone nut .which you have ..if you want a closer gap undo the two bolts on the crank arm and move it in then tighten ! What was the reason you had to change the hollowtec !

 

[Thomk]

Thomk : A lot of the hollow tec BB are compatible there is a small few that are not and when they are fitted they stand out like a sore thumb if they are not compatible . in your picture its looks as it should look ..all this mention of cross threading etc is nonsense You need a 2/3 mm cap from the crank arm to hollow tec cone nut .which you have ..if you want a closer gap undo the two bolts on the crank arm and move it in then tighten ! What was the reason you had to change the hollowtec !

I undid the bolts and the centre cap and had a good look. I tapped it a bit but realised that it was in as far as it would go so did it all back up again and went for a ride. I'm happy that all is as it should be.
The old crank arm was broken by the LBS. Not sure exactly how but I think they threaded it when they tried to replace one of the bolts with another which was slightly too big so they replaced the cranks free of charge.

 

[TissoT]

I undid the bolts and the centre cap and had a good look. I tapped it a bit but realised that it was in as far as it would go so did it all back up again and went for a ride. I'm happy that all is as it should be.
The old crank arm was broken by the LBS. Not sure exactly how but I think they threaded it when they tried to replace one of the bolts with another which was slightly too big so they replaced the cranks free of charge.

 

[djb1971]

I would get a spacer fitted behind the bb because there appears to be no preload now and it'll cause uneven wear on the bearings. HTII bb's are fickle at the best of times. I'd also check the chain set drive side to see if anything is missing or damaged, sending the axle too far through. You could try to source a wave washer to fit behind the non drive side, like FSA have but it's a temporary fix. Something is wrong and I'd fix before your miles from home and it fails.

 

[TissoT]

I would get a spacer fitted behind the bb because there appears to be no preload now and it'll cause uneven wear on the bearings. HTII bb's are fickle at the best of times. I'd also check the chain set drive side to see if anything is missing or damaged, sending the axle too far through. You could try to source a wave washer to fit behind the non drive side, like FSA have but it's a temporary fix. Something is wrong and I'd fix before your miles from home and it fails.

Nonsence ...How can you get uneven wear when the chaining spindle goes through a shaft in the hollowtec an out the the other side !

 

[TissoT]

Nonce ...How can you get uneven wear when the chaining spindle goes through a shaft in the hollowtec an out the the other side !

its plug and play

 

[djb1971]

Nonce ...How can you get uneven wear when the chaining spindle goes through a shaft in the hollowtec an out the the other side !

What do you think the preload cap is for.

And who the fark are you calling a nonce

 

[TissoT]

it should of said nonsense . not nonce .
I do know what a pre load cap is ?

 

[djb1971]

Thomk

Drop the chain off the drive side and whack the non drive hard with a rubber mallet or similar ( you may just push hard). If the axle moves, which it should do according to your photo because of the gap. You'll need to get a spacer fitted if the arm won't go on any further on as it is.

One of my old Raleigh frames had the bb faced and it ended up too short for a ht2 axle and had a gap so I fitted the spacers that come with external bb's.

 

[Thomk]

I would get a spacer fitted behind the bb because there appears to be no preload now and it'll cause uneven wear on the bearings.

Sorry I don't understand this. The preload cap it fitted and I've checked that it is just finger tight.

 

[Thomk]

Thomk

Drop the chain off the drive side and whack the non drive hard with a rubber mallet or similar ( you may just push hard). If the axle moves, which it should do according to your photo because of the gap. You'll need to get a spacer fitted if the arm won't go on any further on as it is.

What exactly is the problem then? Is the BB just not completely compatible with the crankset?

 

[djb1971]

The cap puts tension on both arms against the bearings. Unless I'm looking at your photo and missing the point, yours has a gap on the non drive side between the arm and the bb. The arms should be up against the bearings, your axle is free to move from side to side.

 

[Thomk]

Could there be a problem which I can fix by taking apart the drive side e.g. the axle isn't centred and pushed too far onto the non drive side?