Help ! Bottle cage bolt stuck in frame.

[Flixton]

Cheers Stevede, I found the same one myself this morning and thanks for the offer of help. I have only been on the forum 24 hours and already my faith in mankind is restored !

 

[Flixton]

Having something rattling around in my frame would drive me insane, I would have to remove the headset and try and shake it out.

Yeah. It's gonna be a learning curve having never removed a bottom bracket.............everyday is a school day. ! Alternativly a big blob of silicon though the hole to cover the bolt should set and hold it still inside the frame should work. I must admit though knowing it's there would bug me.

 

[stevede]

Yeah. It's gonna be a learning curve having never removed a bottom bracket.............everyday is a school day. ! Alternativly a big blob of silicon though the hole to cover the bolt should set and hold it still inside the frame should work. I must admit though knowing it's there would bug me.

Bolt will drop to the bottom and the silicone will probably never touch it. A good amount of spray grease through the hole may do as it will run to the bottom and when it thickens it should hold the bolt. Taking the BB out is not too difficult but again, you may need a trip to the tool shop. If it's not causing any issue, leave as is, and remove in the future when doing maintenance on the BB.

The crankset you have will determine the tools required for the BB removal.

 

[Banjo]

You could hacksaw the bolt off flush then fix a strap on bottle cage over the top .

Or use these. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/elite-vip-bottle-cage-clamps/

 

[Flixton]

Bolt will drop to the bottom and the silicone will probably never touch it. A good amount of spray grease through the hole may do as it will run to the bottom and when it thickens it should hold the bolt. Taking the BB out is not too difficult but again, you may need a trip to the tool shop. If it's not causing any issue, leave as is, and remove in the future when doing maintenance on the BB. The crankset you have will determine the tools required for the BB removal.

Hi again, My idea was a big blob of silicon through the hole and then tip the frame forward and back till the bolt got stuck in the silicon blob then let it set. I prefer to get it out though. Forgive my ignorance as I am fairly new to doing any maintenance besides the basics. If I leave the bolt in there (and probably some swarf) until I get round to removing the BB will it cause any damage to bearings etc.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

 

[stevede]

Hi again, My idea was a big blob of silicon through the hole and then tip the frame forward and back till the bolt got stuck in the silicon blob then let it set. I prefer to get it out though. Forgive my ignorance as I am fairly new to doing any maintenance besides the basics. If I leave the bolt in there (and probably some swarf) until I get round to removing the BB will it cause any damage to bearings etc.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

A quick look on the Spesh website suggests you have a hollowtech crankset (no bolt head showing on the chainwheel side, 2 small allen head bolts on the other). My experience is not exhaustive but the ones I have dealt with have a plastic sleeve to stop debris in the tubes reaching the bearings, therefore you should be safe.

Regards

Steve

 

[Flixton]

A quick look on the Spesh website suggests you have a hollowtech crankset (no bolt head showing on the chainwheel side, 2 small allen head bolts on the other). My experience is not exhaustive but the ones I have dealt with have a plastic sleeve to stop debris in the tubes reaching the bearings, therefore you should be safe.

Regards

Steve

Cheers Steve, A bit of an update...................Job half done ! Protected the frame with a bit of duct tape sawed the bolt off and proceeded to saw slots into the bolt and rivnut flange with a fine hacksaw blade rotating it and cutting slot after slot to wear away the metal. After 15 mins of sawing I had worn it down sufficiently to try a gentle tap with a centre punch and with a little ping the whole lot went inside the frame and then somehow rolled across the garage floor. I turned the bike upside down only to find that where the downtube meets the BB is open ! I hadn't expected that and hadn't thought to look. The only way I can describe it is that the downtube is staggered slightly below the BB leaving a semi circular gap. So now hopefully the easy bit buy a Rivnut tool off ebay and finish the job. Many thanks to yourself and others confirming my ideas and giving me the confidence to have a go myself. Cheers

 

[robgul]

Ah - the hacksaw technique was in essence what I was advocating with the angle grinder (much more fun, with SPARKS and NOISE !!!) - final tip : be aware that you can get Rivnuts in both steel and alloy ... steel are slightly tougher to pull up with the gun but there's a lot less chance of cross-threading the bolt you insert - and there's no cause for concern with the frame and Rivnut being unlike metals ... if you are worried touch up the Rivnut flange with a very thin coating of clear nail varnish.

Rob

 

[Flixton]

Ah - the hacksaw technique was in essence what I was advocating with the angle grinder (much more fun, with SPARKS and NOISE !!!) - final tip : be aware that you can get Rivnuts in both steel and alloy ... steel are slightly tougher to pull up with the gun but there's a lot less chance of cross-threading the bolt you insert - and there's no cause for concern with the frame and Rivnut being unlike metals ... if you are worried touch up the Rivnut flange with a very thin coating of clear nail varnish.

Rob

Rob. The new rivnut could be made out of marshmallow ..............I will NEVER crossthread a nut again !

 

[young Ed]

Rob. The new rivnut could be made out of marshmallow ..............I will NEVER crossthread a nut again !

i find it is easy to remove mash mallow rivet nuts when you do cross thread then and when they are done for they are still tasty!

ore seriously is your frame alu or steel or what?
Cheers Ed

 

[young Ed]

Ah - the hacksaw technique was in essence what I was advocating with the angle grinder (much more fun, with SPARKS and NOISE !!!) - final tip : be aware that you can get Rivnuts in both steel and alloy ... steel are slightly tougher to pull up with the gun but there's a lot less chance of cross-threading the bolt you insert - and there's no cause for concern with the frame and Rivnut being unlike metals ... if you are worried touch up the Rivnut flange with a very thin coating of clear nail varnish.

Rob

spesh site suggests he has alu frame
Cheers Ed

 

[grumpyoldgit]

spesh site suggests he has alu frame
Cheers Ed

I you use an aluminium rivenut,be careful not to strip the thread,very easy to do.

 

[Flixton]

It's deffo an aluminium frame. Rivnuts and tool ordered. Only problem I can foresee now is the hole seems to be approx. 7.5mm and the rivnuts are 6.9mm. The hole may have been enlarged by the Rivnut spinning whilst trying to drill it out before I gave up and sawed the flange off. I will test the rivnuts in a offcut of aluminium with a 7.5mm hole and if they don't bite I may try a bit of Araldite on the shank of the nut before inserting. I will post how I get on in case it's of use to others.

 

[Globalti]

Rivnuts are very soft aluminium. You can get them from good car accessory shops.

 

[grumpyoldgit]

Rivnuts are very soft aluminium. You can get them from good car accessory shops.

Also available in bzp mild steel & stanless steel,might be worth seeing if you can get the half hex version,it may afford more grip,not sure on the last bit,as I have never tried them.
Forgot a bit,they come in countersunk & non countersunk version,best establish which you have before buying.