Headsets again...

[PpPete]

>>>>>>

 

[theclaud]

That would work aswell, as long as the diameter at the tip of the cone is smaller than the inside diameter of the top cartridge bearing, and the taper matches the taper on the inside of the top cartridge bearing (I think that makes sense) it will work, with the stem bolts (the ones that hold the stem to the fork steerer) just touch tight, tighten the bolt through the centre of the stem/fork steerer, you should be able to feel if it is working properly just by rotating the forks, make sure the front wheel is out, the extra weight of the front wheel makes it harder to feel the perfect headset adjustment. Apologies if I'm insulting your ability with too much detail, don't mean to.

Not at all, and thanks. When I tried adjusting it I was using the horrible bear-trap thing that came with the forks - the choice seemed to be between rattly or over-tight. I've given up on that and ordered an expanding bung. I'll give it a go with that before I abandon the headset!

 

[GilesM]

Not at all, and thanks. When I tried adjusting it I was using the horrible bear-trap thing that came with the forks - the choice seemed to be between rattly or over-tight. I've given up on that and ordered an expanding bung. I'll give it a go with that before I abandon the headset!

I'm a big fan of the Hope head doctor, it really works well and I've never had one come lose, and both my mtbs have had a lot of rough love over the last few years, it's locked in place with an 8 or 10 mm allen key, very solid.

 

[theclaud]

I'm a big fan of the Hope head doctor, it really works well and I've never had one come lose, and both my mtbs have had a lot of rough love over the last few years, it's locked in place with an 8 or 10 mm allen key, very solid.

I don't think you can get em in 1", though, can you?

 

[GilesM]

I don't think you can get em in 1", though, can you?

Ah yes, unfortunately you're right.

 

[Crankarm]

Pics claud pics ............ would be most helpful. I wouldn't buy Ritchey after my namesake the LH non drive side snapped . I have to say I think Ritchey stuff is cheap and nasty which is probably why it is on the Boardman bikes to keep costs down. I am looking at replacing the headset on my Spec Sirrus which I feel might be Ritchey as well with Hope or Cane Creak. The steering feels really heavy and sluggish and this is before I even put the bar bag and front panniers on.

 

[theclaud]

Pics claud pics ............ would be most helpful. I wouldn't buy Ritchey after my namesake the LH non drive side snapped . I have to say I think Ritchey stuff is cheap and nasty which is probably why it is on the Boardman bikes to keep costs down. I am looking at replacing the headset on my Spec Sirrus which I feel might be Ritchey as well with Hope or Cane Creak. The steering feels really heavy and sluggish and this is before I even put the bar bag and front panniers on.

I think you're right on this - I have some fairly nice Ritchey cranks but the stems and headsets seem pretty duff. Keep forgetting pics - bike at home and computer at work - but if I haven't sorted it this weekend I'll put some snaps up...

 

[Crankarm]

I think you're right on this - I have some fairly nice Ritchey cranks but the stems and headsets seem pretty duff. Keep forgetting pics - bike at home and computer at work - but if I haven't sorted it this weekend I'll put some snaps up...

Don't be lulled into a false sense of security as I say mine snapped . It's hard cycling 14 miles in the dark with just one pedal and an aching ......... For me it is now only Campag Record/Chorus, Shimano XT or Ultegra cranks. The more cost conscious Shimano Deore is ok as well which are favoured by Chris Juden of CTC fame.

 

[theclaud]

Don't be lulled into a false sense of security as I say mine snapped . It's hard cycling 14 miles in the dark with just one pedal and an aching ......... For me it is now only Campag Record/Chorus, Shimano XT or Ultegra cranks. The more cost conscious Shimano Deore is ok as well which are favoured by Chris Juden of CTC fame.

Well I'm going to give the cranks a go but I've had enough of the headset. It seems to me that because it lacks an effective centering device, the only way to stop lateral play is to overtighten it. The bear-trap thing seems to work, but looks horrible. I'm off to find a better headset and an expander plug. Bit of a nuisance cos I can't fit headsets myself and I'm trying to stay out of the LBS because he has some temptingly blingy wheels that I really can't afford

 

[PpPete]

Porkypete, they look a bit more complex, but they do have their advantages, unitl a few years ago I only had bikes with quill stems, but I have now been converted, and when you look at the Hope or Thomson X4 stems, they really of a thing of engineering beauty, however I used to think the same about the Cinelli 1A stems.

Quite prepared to believe some of them are things of engineering beauty.... but what precisely are the advantages of Aheadsets over quills?

 

[Tim Bennet.]

but what precisely are the advantages of Aheadsets over quills?

The ability to adjust (and even lube) your headset whilst away on a tour with just an allen key. No more searching for a garage that has two 32 or even 35 mm spanners

 

[MacB]

I've used Ritchey and been less than impressed, for bits I now tend to look first at the BBB range. Dotbike do them and I have one of their 1" Turnaround headsets on the Dawes. This converted from the old threaded forks and uses 1" threadless steel ones now. I've had no issues and have changed stems etc several times.

http://www.dotbike.com/ProductsP4010.aspx?utm_source=internal&utm_medium=5&utm_campaign=DPL

 

[theclaud]

I've used Ritchey and been less than impressed, for bits I now tend to look first at the BBB range. Dotbike do them and I have one of their 1" Turnaround headsets on the Dawes. This converted from the old threaded forks and uses 1" threadless steel ones now. I've had no issues and have changed stems etc several times.

http://www.dotbike.com/ProductsP4010.aspx?utm_source=internal&utm_medium=5&utm_campaign=DPL

That's nice. I like BBB stuff. But I've just bought a Cane Creek - it wasn't much more expensive and it looks nice...

 

[GilesM]

Quite prepared to believe some of them are things of engineering beauty.... but what precisely are the advantages of Aheadsets over quills?

As Tim Bennet mentioned, easy to adjust with just an allen key, no need for big spanners. The stem is lighter, with a quill stem you have a large section of stem inside the steerer tube, the shape of the stem means that it can be machined easily from one piece of aluminium bar, no casting required, should be lighter, stronger and cheaper to make, no threads on the steerer to worry about, so all forks can come with the same length steerer on them, you can just cut them to whatever length you need.

 

[GilesM]

That's nice. I like BBB stuff. But I've just bought a Cane Creek - it wasn't much more expensive and it looks nice...

I recently put one on my better half's mtb, I was impressed, half the price of the Hope, but seems to be working well.