Head tube bearing in my 1960s Carlton

[Johnsco]

I've recently brought my old Carlton back from the dead after some 35 years of neglect.
During this time, a friend (???) borrowed and abused the bike - So badly that it wouldn't go at all when I got it back.
I've a number of questions.
Forgive me if some of them appear elementary.
I'm a reasonably competent engineer, but I've not that much experience on bicycle engineering.
First question:

While riding, I notice a "clacking" sound from the head tube.
To check it out, I pulled on the front brake, and then rocked the bike backwards and forwards against the brake.
I could feel play between the large nut [labelled "B"] and the head tube.
I loosened off the smaller nut [labelled "A"], which I guess locks the larger nut.
I then found that the larger nut was only finger-tight and I could rotate it.
I tightened it about one full turn.
Any more than this appears to stiffen up the steering.
This appears to have eliminated the free-play.
I then tightened down the smaller nut around the stem tube, making sure that the little bracket supporting the brake cable was central.
Now, when I ride over bumps, the "clacking" sound has gone.
Question ... Have I done the right thing ?
Could I have done any damage ?
Is lubrication or replacement of this bearing ever required ?
Is there a "How to" that relates to overhaul of this part ?
Any help or guidance would be most welcome.
Thanks
(Other questions may follow soon !!)

 

[rogerzilla]

You've done it right. They repainted over the headset!

 

[Cycleops]

Yes, correct. I’d disassemble the headset and apply some fresh grease, the old is bound to have dried out after 35 years.

Youll need to loosen the bolt on the stem some way then give it a tap to release the wedge (D) in the head tube. Can only hope it’s not stuck after so long.

 

[raleighnut]

Yep to both of the above, be careful when disassembling though, they're likely to be loose ball bearings in there and they'll try to escape everywhere DAMHIKT

Good news is a bag of sufficient bearings to replace them is only a couple of quid.

 

[Reynard]

BTW, if you're not sure whether the bearings are loose or caged, it helps to lay the bike on its side and undo stuff over a large plastic tray. The ones from pre-packed pork chops or big punnets of mushrooms are just the ticket. I always have a supply to hand.

Having recently wrestled a sticky quill stem into submission in order to service a neglected headset, a good quality long-handled allen key is what you'll need to undo the bolt. You may need to marinate it in WD40 for a while prior to that. And be prepared to apply some serious welly.

 

[Ajax Bay]

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

 

[Johnsco]

Thanks Rogerzilla.
That was what I was wanting to hear.
I'm afraid that it's me who has painted over the headset in silver Hammerite Smooth.
All the silver parts (in fact the whole bike) was rusty and the chrome parts really needed replacing.
See the BEFORE and AFTER pics here.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Johnsco]

Thanks Cycleops for the useful diagram.
I had no idea how the quill and the wedge worked to secure the fork steering tube.
I assume that the fork steering tube will drop down as the wedge releases, and that I'll be able to lift out the quill with the wedge on the end of it.
I have been worried about the lubrication of the head bearings.
It's something I never did in all the time I've had the bike.

One of the reasons I wanted advice is because I remember watching someone else do a bike repair when I was young.
He soon had ball bearings all over the floor.
Useful advice.

So - Thanks everyone for your help.
The quill stem bolt on mine is a hex bolt rather than an allen-head bolt.
I'll get some good penetrating oil on it tonight, and hope it's not too tight.
Fingers crossed.

 

[Reynard]

One of the reasons I wanted advice is because I remember watching someone else do a bike repair when I was young.
He soon had ball bearings all over the floor.

Hence the plastic tray Far better than chasing after escaped ball bearings with a magnet...

So - Thanks everyone for your help.
The quill stem bolt on mine is a hex bolt rather than an allen-head bolt.
I'll get some good penetrating oil on it tonight, and hope it's not too tight.
Fingers crossed.

Hex keys and allen keys are the same thing. You may need an imperial set rather than metric given the age of the bike, but Screwfix is your friend there, they have all sorts.

 

[Ajax Bay]

What's the saddle?

 

[Johnsco]

I've loads of tools - Both metric and imperial.
I meant a flat-sided hexagonal-headed bolt ... Not an allen socket headed bolt.
It will be imperial, but I'm sure I'll have a socket to fit.
Thanks.

 

[Johnsco]

What's the saddle?

The saddle is a 1960s brooks B5N .... Now deceased ... See my thread:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/brooks-saddle-failure.265332/

 

[C R]

Thanks Cycleops for the useful diagram.
I had no idea how the quill and the wedge worked to secure the fork steering tube.
I assume that the fork steering tube will drop down as the wedge releases, and that I'll be able to lift out the quill with the wedge on the end of it.
I have been worried about the lubrication of the head bearings.
It's something I never did in all the time I've had the bike.

One of the reasons I wanted advice is because I remember watching someone else do a bike repair when I was young.
He soon had ball bearings all over the floor.
Useful advice.

So - Thanks everyone for your help.
The quill stem bolt on mine is a hex bolt rather than an allen-head bolt.
I'll get some good penetrating oil on it tonight, and hope it's not too tight.
Fingers crossed.

The fork will remain in place when the wedge releases. The wedge only holds the stem, the fork is held by the nuts threaded at the top of the steerer.

 

[Blue Hills]

the threaded headset wedge system really is a bizarre bodge - but works - was amazed the first time I ventured inside one and found what looked like a crude bit of pig iron shoved in there.

 

[midlife]

Don't forget you have to tap / smack the nut on top of the stem to release the wedge.