I'd have fitted a 12-28 for a bit tighter cluster, but a triple's better than a compact IMO.
along with maybe a 28/38/50 on the front, though a new chainset is need usually. I have a really odd sized inner ring so I am stuck with the 30th, not that these days it gets used much what I did do is change the middle from 42 to 40, I would prefer a 38th, but I believe it won't do 38-52 on a shimano triple, option a 30/38/50 would mean the inner and middle are pretty close. I would be happy to lose the 12th and have an 18th for better cadence.
Cadence sensors, the novelty hasn't worn off me yet after two years, if anything its the one thing I do watch above my speed, my avg is about 90rpm up and down I can do this because i do watch my cadence, this summer I have worked on getting my cadence up, my speed has improved marginally, but I am using shorter gears, hence the real need for the 18th rear.
@kayajs24 There are stand alone bike computers that do cadence, however if you are using a gps unit i.e. Bryton/Garmin/Mio/Holux ect, any unit that is Ant+ (a communication protocol between sensor and unit) should do cadence, you will need at least the middle of the range units, Brytons R20 (R21 is the new modal, I have one, it has its shortfalls, but very good as a basic unit) does cad/hr/sp the garmin 200 doesn't.
Getting a high spin rate takes practice
@smokeysmoo it's easy to think you are spinning quickly when you start when in fact you are not, I find even 90rpm is slow these days but without a sensor it is sometimes difficult to tell if I am 90+ or 80+, and does make a huge difference.
@kayajs24 you will get use to the gears, or rather how they work quickly, getting used to a particular set of gears and when best to use each one takes a little practice, I find being in a lower gear than I think I shoud be helps or even two, depends like
@raleighnut says how close a grouping the rear cassette is.
