GDZ's random bikes

[GeekDadZoid]

Edit:- rather than a new thread I'll combine some of my random vintage bikes and questions in here untill a bike deserves its own thread.

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Another week another bike.

This one popped up on Facebook at a quite inflated price in my opinion. Anyway I dropped them a message saying what I would pay if they didn't get a better offer.

After a week or so they got back in touch after being messed about.

its been converted to single speed with 700c wheels, so it's quite hard to date as there is nothing original on it I don't think. I am guessing early 80s but I can't find any Viking catalogues out there. Can anyone help identify it?

 

[Smokin Joe]

Sixties or maybe a bit earlier I'd say. They were quite popular among club cyclists back then.

 

[Cycleops]

I'm no Viking expert but I'd say late seventies early eighties. Foregoing models had a rather nice enameled head badge but this foil substitute might indicate the company were looking to save money before they went bust.
The Weinmann brakes came from that era too.

 

[GeekDadZoid]

Its very similar to a Viking Vision from what I can tell, but I guess there was a range of similar ones.

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/fs-78-viking-vision-bike-531-sold.111152/

 

[GeekDadZoid]

Everything but seat post and headset cups removed now.

Seat post is very very stuck, currently soaking in wd40 but after giving it some Welly it's possibly going to have to have some drastic attention.

The bottom bracket was as stuck as I have seen one too, needed a very long breaker bar to get it off.

 

[classic33]

Can you increase the side of seat tube slot. It looks as though it's tighten to the last.

 

[Cycleops]

Hate to be wise after the event but the seat post should be the very first thing you check when buying an old bike.
Some useful videos on YouTube.

 

[GeekDadZoid]

Can you increase the side of seat tube slot. It looks as though it's tighten to the last.

It was and I have tweaked it open a bit now see if the WD40 penetrates a bit better.

Hate to be wise after the event but the seat post should be the very first thing you check when buying an old bike.
Some useful videos on YouTube.

At the price I paid it wasn't really too much of a worry, I was pretty sure it would be problematic. If I was paying proper money I certainly would.

I'll give some of the YouTube methods a try, quite fancy trying the Caustic Soda method 🤪

 

[Gillstay]

WD40 is not good at penetrating. Bilt Hammer have some stuff that is much better at a reasonable price.

 

[Cycleops]

At the price I paid it wasn't really too much of a worry, I was pretty sure it would be problematic. If I was paying proper money I certainly would.

I'll give some of the YouTube methods a try, quite fancy trying the Caustic Soda method 🤪

Okay I understand.
If you go the caustic soda route you'll destroy the paint so maybe try cutting it out. It's a long slog but less damage on the way.

 

[classic33]

It was and I have tweaked it open a bit now see if the WD40 penetrates a bit better.



At the price I paid it wasn't really too much of a worry, I was pretty sure it would be problematic. If I was paying proper money I certainly would.

I'll give some of the YouTube methods a try, quite fancy trying the Caustic Soda method 🤪

Most methods on YouTube involve alloy seatposts stuck in steel seat tube. From the seat clamp, I'd say yours is steel on steel.

Worth trying store brand cola, works better at cleaning, than a named brand.
Plug the end of the seat post before pouring it into the frame.

 

[GeekDadZoid]

WD40 is not good at penetrating. Bilt Hammer have some stuff that is much better at a reasonable price.

Might give that a whirl

Okay I understand.
If you go the caustic soda route you'll destroy the paint so maybe try cutting it out. It's a long slog but less damage on the way.

Thanks for the tip

Most methods on YouTube involve alloy seatposts stuck in steel seat tube. From the seat clamp, I'd say yours is steel on steel.

Worth trying store brand cola, works better at cleaning, than a named brand.
Plug the end of the seat post before pouring it into the frame.

Yes it is steel so I'll make sure to look for the right tips.

 

[Once a Wheeler]

Comments on seat pillar removal here. Note Cyclops' reservations, though, a few posts further on.
I would agree with the 70s–80s dating. Some of the 60s Vikings had a pair of reinforcing struts between the seat tube and the chainstays, positioned behind the chainwheel. I suspect that was their heyday and this is a later mid-range model.

 

[TTSS]

There is a lovely Viking on Facebook but it ain't this one. Very average. The one I'm talking about has a full Shimano 600 group set but it's a 60 cm frame !

 

[GeekDadZoid]

So, interesting week. I've been slowly cutting the seat post but getting a little frustrated so put it to one side for now whilst I do other jobs.

In a twist of fate, the bike I originally planned on buying this month was a random Dawes I had spotted a few miles from me on eBay. It had some other bids so I gave up on it, however it popped up the other day in my watched items with no bids??? I therefore won it at the opening price.

It's approximately 1980-1981 vintage and I imagine one of the lower end models, but I think it will make a fantastic runaround. The lady who was selling it had bought it for herself brand new when she was in her late teens, she said she just bought the smallest frames men's bike in the shop, as there where no diamond framed ladies bikes available. She rode it up till about 10 years ago where she left it in the shed.

More research needed but here are some pics, the metallic brown is the original colour, the gold she sprayed on to make it less attractive to thieves.