RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
Rick we are all delighted to be able to help others, but I am afraid we are doing it remotely here so guesses have to be made, and potentially omissions and mistakes can be made by all of us.
IMHO going for a tiagra front mech is not itself the obvious answer. It is because it is a road mech, and you have mtb shifters. A mtb shifter does not deliver the same cable pull a road front mech expects for each "gear", and the difference is quite significant (your front shifter moves 44% more cable per "gear" a tiagra expects). Alas like many things in this business mixing in a road front mech might work just fine for some in some circumstances, but if I were you, I would look for a solution elsewhere first.
The problem you have, is that you have mtb shifters, a mtb front mech, but a road chainset.
Solution 1
The silver lining, is that road and mtb chainrings have the same pitch (i.e. distance between rings). So if we park the 12T/10T problem for the moment, essentially the problem you have is that your road chainset is approximately 5mm too close to the frame.
If I understand it correctly you said you are using a 110mm long / 68mm shell bb. If so by my estimation if you change it to a 118mm long one, your chainline should be practically if not exactly 50mm. Such a bb can be bought for peanuts or, more preferably, £15 including p&p.
However since there is this 12T/10T difference issue outstanding, if you are comfortable doing it, before swapping bb what I would suggest is to do a cost free experiment first: I would remove the drive side chainset, and wrap a layer or two of oven tin foil evenly and tidily on the tapered bit of the square taper, and reinstall the chainset as normal. The objective is to utilise the tin foil as a shim to move the chainset out by roughly 5mm. It shouldn't take many layers, but it has to be done by trial and error.
Once you have your approximately 50mm chainline, you can try setting the front mech up following this. Chance is you should be able to hit all the gears without undue rubbing, including being able to use the large front ring, by setting the front mech height by avoiding clash with the middle, not large ring.
Solution 2
A more costly but technically more correct alternative is to swap the road chainset for a mtb one, but be aware it also needs a matching bb, which is probably not the same as above. I have provided a link to a compatibility chart earlier. You are the only one who can decide whether this is preferable compared to Solution 1 (with or without swapping the middle chainring).
Solution 3
If you wish you can swap the front mech for a road one, but you may well have to swap shifter(s) too.
I hope whichever solution option you choose works well for you. If not please do come back.
IMHO going for a tiagra front mech is not itself the obvious answer. It is because it is a road mech, and you have mtb shifters. A mtb shifter does not deliver the same cable pull a road front mech expects for each "gear", and the difference is quite significant (your front shifter moves 44% more cable per "gear" a tiagra expects). Alas like many things in this business mixing in a road front mech might work just fine for some in some circumstances, but if I were you, I would look for a solution elsewhere first.
The problem you have, is that you have mtb shifters, a mtb front mech, but a road chainset.
Solution 1
The silver lining, is that road and mtb chainrings have the same pitch (i.e. distance between rings). So if we park the 12T/10T problem for the moment, essentially the problem you have is that your road chainset is approximately 5mm too close to the frame.
If I understand it correctly you said you are using a 110mm long / 68mm shell bb. If so by my estimation if you change it to a 118mm long one, your chainline should be practically if not exactly 50mm. Such a bb can be bought for peanuts or, more preferably, £15 including p&p.
However since there is this 12T/10T difference issue outstanding, if you are comfortable doing it, before swapping bb what I would suggest is to do a cost free experiment first: I would remove the drive side chainset, and wrap a layer or two of oven tin foil evenly and tidily on the tapered bit of the square taper, and reinstall the chainset as normal. The objective is to utilise the tin foil as a shim to move the chainset out by roughly 5mm. It shouldn't take many layers, but it has to be done by trial and error.
Once you have your approximately 50mm chainline, you can try setting the front mech up following this. Chance is you should be able to hit all the gears without undue rubbing, including being able to use the large front ring, by setting the front mech height by avoiding clash with the middle, not large ring.
Solution 2
A more costly but technically more correct alternative is to swap the road chainset for a mtb one, but be aware it also needs a matching bb, which is probably not the same as above. I have provided a link to a compatibility chart earlier. You are the only one who can decide whether this is preferable compared to Solution 1 (with or without swapping the middle chainring).
Solution 3
If you wish you can swap the front mech for a road one, but you may well have to swap shifter(s) too.
I hope whichever solution option you choose works well for you. If not please do come back.