The last time I went to Manchester was over 20 years ago, to see someone die in hospital, so I figured any return visit
had to be better than that. And I wasn't disappointed.
The stack of bikes accumulating at the station grew slowly bigger as more trains from London (and other places) arrived, disgorging heavily padded cyclists, waddling like ducks. Which was a handy thing bearing in mind the volume of water we encountered later on. In fact, on the train up, whilst I was slumming it in 1st Class, eating my complementary food, drinking my free drinks, and flicking through the Guardian, I had noticed the intensity of the rain as it hammered on the roof whilst we were stopped in Crewe. The fact that everyone else in the station seemed to be half naked was a good omen I thought, as clearly it couldn't be raining outside. As we set off for the Town Hall (not a church, Mice), it was only drizzling, and I said (for what was the first of many occasions, to Ben's exasperation), that it must be clearing up. Oh how wrong I was.
The Town Hall in Manchester, as well as being the epicentre of the first nuclear free zone in 1980 (according to the plaque placed 15 feet up a wall near the entrance, despite the existence of a small reactor in the University apparently....) is of course a magnificent example of Victorian architecture. In fact the whole of the area is of similar epic proportions. To be fair, it is somewhat let down at ground level, with the garish nightclubs, full of the previously mentioned half naked people.
Anyway, off we went, weaving around the taxis, heading in a vaguely northerly direction. This part of the world is unknown to me, and I hadn't bothered to closely look at the map beforehand. Although it seemed like a lot of built up area up to Bury, it was (mainly) interesting looking buildings, and weird exotic types of fast food places, no doubt selling deep fried Northern specialities. The rain was slowly growing in intensity, or more accurately, increasing in its wetness.
After forsaking the delights of Bury town centre, we deviated away onto the A58 towards Bolton. At some point the rain changed tactics and became hail, but then it changed back to biblical proportions of falling wet stuff. There were rivers of water gushing down the sides of the roads, spray flying everywhere. At times I felt like Moses, parting the Red Sea with the volume of water being displaced by my tyres, so I was glad of my mudguards. Although I had 3 powerful lights on the bike, their light output seemed to be sucked up by the water bouncing around. However, tucked up in my Night Vision jacket,
Altura waterproof leggings, overshoes AND most importantly of all, with my mudguards on the bike, throughout it all, I was smiling away. Because, as mentioned in a prediction several pages earlier, it
was beautiful weather. Just because it wasn't a balmy hot night doesn't negate the sheer majesty of the weather we encountered. However, I did feel sorry for poor Simon, shivering away in his shorts, with only a thin jacket. Of course if he'd had mudguards on, I'm sure his back wouldn't have had the splattering it got.
After swooshing through Bolton, we then turned onto the A666, rather than go onto the backroads. I'm not sure such a road number is a good idea, as at around 2.30 am (I think), we finally got completely out into the open, when we passed a sign for the West Pennine Moors, and then we were truly in wild country, with the mist closing in. I did think of the advice for the travellers in the
American Werewolf in London film at this point...... Although we had been climbing a bit and it got a bit undulating, there didn't seem to be any long drags uphill, so I was surprised (but pleased) to be able to fly down massive long stretches of downhill, such as 1.5 miles marked at 10% down - which was nice. By the time we got to Blackburn, I commented again that the rain seemed to be easing up, which it was, oddly enough. After 34 miles we reached the small village of Ribchester and the warm oasis of the half way stop. Although the rain had penetrated my jacket slightly around my chest, and my toes felt a bit damp, I'm sure without the mudguards, I would have been much wetter.
Setting off again, after 4 am, it was now daylight, and we could now start to see the glorious countryside. The tops of the hills were shrouded in mist/low cloud, but everywhere was a bright, verdant green. Being such a small group, we were never too spread out, so it was possible to zoom up the small inclines and then savour the descents, without worrying about loosing the tail end.
We edged closer to Lancaster and its magnificent castle towering over the town, running parallel to a canal which changed from being below us, to being above us. The castle grew closer, and then we zig-zagged through the streets of Lancaster, which is a very attractive town (in fact we got so attached to it later on, we zoomed round the ring road a number of times), before we crossed on the
Lune Millennium Bridge, which was a very striking design, swooping or undulating along its length. On the other side, then there was about 4 miles of probably Sustran's finest work, being a paved cyclepath to Morecambe (which in fact is part of NCN 6 which also goes through my home town of Luton). It was along this stretch that I heard a "swish swish" sound which I felt was a small air leak whenever that portion of the tyre went through water on the ground. However it seemed to stop, and someone else thought it might just have been my rear mudguard rubbing slightly. All of a sudden, we were at the promenade, and although the tide was out, it was a wondrous sight, to see the vast acres of sand. The section of sand behind Eric's statue was even combed or brushed, although it's debatable how many visitors would have enjoyed it, bearing in mind how overcast it was. As mentioned above, the Welcome Café was very welcoming, and for a full English breakfast including tea or coffee for £4.50, was a welcome bargain as well.
Heading off again around 10 am, it was back on the cycle path when I heard a familiar "swish swish" sound, only this time it carried on, and my tyre started getting soft. I quickly dropped my bike to the ground (which it turns out I should have done more gently) and Simon helped me change the tube, although I hadn't realised that one of the tubes I'd picked up to take with me was in fact one from my "to be repaired" pile. Oops. So off the tyre went again, and this time the second tube was fine. However, in my haste in originally dropping the bike, I'd bent one of the mudguard stays, so the rear of the mudguard was now rubbing on the tyre. Thanks to Andrew and his adjustable spanner, this problem was then solved, and we could head off for a (mis) guided tour of Lancaster and an open Weatherspoon's pub. Brown beer ranged in price from £1.45 to £2.10 per pint. To avoid problems from Lager Louts, they sensibly price stuff like Heineken at £2.99! After staying there for a while, all too soon, we had to find our way to the station and London bound trains, and so ended a truly epic FNRttC.
For the sheer variation of urban bits and countryside, the views, the ambiance, the friendliness of the locals, even the quality and quantity of the water, I think this route is one of the best. In addition, we seemed to have far more downhill than uphill. It's just a shame that not more of the locals could be persuaded to come along.
Many thanks to Simon and everyone else.
PS Just for Kim, my SatMap GPS also suffered with the rain. The display stopped tracking at Ribchester. It could still display the map, and I could move the map to show elsewhere, just it refused to want to leave the cafe - which is understandable, as I guess it was afraid it would carry on raining.