prior to selling a 2011 Subaru Forester I wanted to remove a CB antenna grounding strap from under the rear hatch piston support arm mounting bracket. but when reattaching the bracket I tightened the bolt too much & twisted the bolt head off.
I drilled a hole in the bolt & tried a hardened steel bolt extractor but broke it off inside the hole
I made the following mistakes:
used too narrow a bit and & for the bolt I was trying to extract
used locking vise grip instead of tap wrench
so I had to drill out the hardened steel bolt extractor & use a better extractor
I bought a spiral fluted extractor tool (at an auto parts store) (Autocraft brand) which came with a drill bit as well. the drill bit was sh*t so I found a suitable titanium bit in my stuff and got the hole drilled and the tool in place.
I was able to turn the broken bolt enough to be visible, meaning I can see that it turned and came out a tiny bit, I also heard a very distinct creak. I thought I was doing good so I just cranked on the tool more but broke it in the hole.
I was unable to drill out the broken piece with the drill bit I was using so embarked on a long term project hunting for the right tools
I did not know "a drawback to tapered screw extractors is that their wedge action tends to expand the drilled, and thus weakened, screw. This wedging action can lock the screw even more tightly in place, making it difficult or impossible to extract: (thank you wikipedia) idiot indication #1
I also did not know about needing a tap wrench for the screw extractor, and used locking vise grips instead idiot indication #2
I then needed a straight fluted extractor a cobalt bit
FYI this is a M6-1.0x16mm cap screw that screws into the body of the car. it is one of two that hold the bottom bracket for the left hatchback support arm
on my car (over torqued one of the bolts holding my rear hatch on). needed special harder
cobalt bits
needed several bits because they dull going into a hardened steel removal tool
a cpl
lefthand bits too. then, when you get a new hole in the "Easyout" (which is stuck in the bolt), or after you drill it out completely leaving just the original broken bolt (with a nice centered hole) then I used a
straight, fluted, (not spiral) extraction tool, the correct size & used a
proper tap wrench to turn it
it took me weeks
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in the end you want this in your hand
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these are my NAPA straight fluted screw extractors. guess I got them at an auto parts store. part # SER 720
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER720
this is a tap wrench to use w the fluted extractors
https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Ameri...rds=tap+wrench
the spiral tools & so called Easyouts & similar tools are inferior
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a hole the correct size matched with the correct extractor allows the extractor to be inserted a decent depth, not just the tip
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was so nice getting the new bolt installed
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I was so happy I started telling a neighbor I didn't know all about it. they Kindly listened but who knows what they were thinking