drilling pedals

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tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
ColinJ said:
You beat me to it! I had what I thought was an impossibly seized pedal once and went along to the LBS with my bike. They reached for the pedal spanner and I was about to tell them not to bother when they fished out what was virtually a length of scaffold pipe about 4 feet long. One guy held the bike and another stood on the end of the pipe. There was a loud Crack! which sounded like the crank breaking, but it was just the pedal coming loose :angry:.

Or, If you have a good strong spanner which is a good fit, secure the crank, preferably in a vice and hit the spanner a good crack with a decent sized hammer (hit it, don't tap it gently which would be a waste of time). The shock will usually be enough to free it. But if you are doing this or putting a pipe over the spanner, it needs to be a a good fit and the crank needs to be well secured. I can't see how it should be that tight anyway and it shouldn't corrode too much.
 

NickM

Veteran
DaveP said:
You will need a hefty pillar drill (complete with wide speed range) a vice that is clamped down, centre drill and a carbide (diamond, cobalt tipped) drill and plenty of lube...

Bollocks to all that faff. A trusty oak gaberoon is all you need for this job.
 

DaveP

Well-Known Member
NickM said:
Bollocks to all that faff. A trusty oak gaberoon is all you need for this job.

Yup, but even better is by Martin.....Alternatives are to buy a spare crank arm or the chainset you always wanted....

Sounds the best bet too me!!
 

dodgy

Guest
Just be done with it and buy some new cranks, it's not worth the hassle of drilling with cutting oil etc.
 

Steve Austin

The Marmalade Kid
Location
Mlehworld
Don't be daft Dodgy. Of course, drilling is the only sensible possible solution to this problem.
Trying to remove the pedals the conventional way will never work as they are stuck, so its time for the pillar drill and hardened bits in order to save a crankset. Maybe calling upon the almighty to conjure some lightning would help fix this problem.....
 
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bonj2

Guest
mickle said:
Of course it's drillable. You will need a selection of sharp drill bits from 3mm in 0.5mm increments up to 1mm smaller than whatever the internal diameter of the crank hole is. A pillar drill with some oomph and a good speed control. A good sharp centre-punch. Some cutting fluid.

When drilling steel one must use very low revs, high pressure and patience. Allow the bit to do it's thing, which is cut a thin layer per revolution. High revs will blunt the bit in a second.

Make sure the first hole is absolutely in the middle of the spindle and keep the area flooded with cutting fluid.

Mark the depth that you need to drill so that you don't waste time drilling too deep. Tape around each bit will serve as a depth marker.

It'll take you a long time.



The best option though would be to soak it in penetrating fluid overnight, dismantle the pedal, whack the axle in a vice and stick a length of pipe over the crank. Easy.

To prevent it happening again next time use peddle washers and grease your axels.

hmmm... that sounds like it may work but a bit too much of a pain in the arse.
I might have a go... i have ordered new cranks now but if that works i could send them back.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
Blow torch on the crank, then dump the pedal, spindle and all in liquid nitrogen.... (or as a cold a liquid as you can find) then big extension on pedal spanner, with the crank on the bike to provide extra leverage.
 

dodgy

Guest
You guys have some pretty well equipped home workshops - extractors, pillar drills, liquid nitrogen, vices, cutting fluid, carbide bits, oak gaberoon ( :laugh: ).
 
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bonj2

Guest
nah sod it. new cranks it is.
I might try mickle's method of disassembling the pedal and putting it in a vice and taking a heavy pipe to it (I did try it with a piece of hoover pipe and a metre-and-a-half-long broom but they showed signs of being weaker than the interface i was trying to undo - especially on the crank arm's current movable state) - there is a vice in the garage, but it's not attached to anything. I might try and attach it to something and remove the pedal just to satisfy myself that it can be done and to have a spare pair of cranks but I've ordered everything i need to change the BB and cranks and the sprocket i've ordered (19t) is going to be a bit spinny with a 46er, will probably be under 65" whereas with a 48 it'll be 66.7".
 

Steve Austin

The Marmalade Kid
Location
Mlehworld
You know that hoover pipe you were using? Was it plastic?
smiley-laughing.gif
 
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