Double or single sided SPD pedals

[Kookas]

They're more likely to have a rigid sole, and look a bit garish to me. If I was wearing them to college I'd go for a more "skate shoe" style. Those Filters are around for not much more than the Shimanos.

Tahos?

I'm more of a heavy duty person when it comes to my shoes, so I probably wouldn't get something just for a skate appearance; I wore steel-toes before my current walking boots. It stems from when I was younger and all my shoes kept falling apart within months. I'll just stick with the M064s and see how it goes. Hopefully I won't regret the decision too much.

 

[Cubist]

Fair do's

 

[Phoenix Lincs]

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...8_1364542756_65d801c3ef67eecf6261a7eac55ac70b

If I got the above, I'm guessing these

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=167

would fit my shoes

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35525

Is it easy to do? I'm not very technically gifted!

I'm thinking I need to at least give clipless a go as I aim to up my mileage and try to improve


Reason for edit - I 'replied' to a wrong post! - see, technically challenged

 

[Kies]

M324's look like they're my kind of pedal. OK, they look a wee bit bulky but I think they may be ideal for clipping in or for short rides without the cleated shoes. Good choice?

Very good choice. They are on my goto hybrid. Means i can ride it with any footwear

 

[mangid]

I used to use Ultegra SPD which were single side, and a beautiful pedal. I recently changed to SPD A600's on road a daily hack, again single sided, and just as smooth. Never have an issue clicking the pedal hangs so the naturally orient as you put the sole of your foot against them (at least I think that's why it's so easy).

I find it hard to ride not using SPD, my feet keep coming of the pedals, it's a complete pain.

 

[shouldbeinbed]

Shimano M324 pedals with a full cage

Spd one side,normal flat pedal the other.

I have them on my hybrid - great for recreational rides,great for going to work in as i don't have the option of changing shoes when get there

These are excellent pedals I've used for years, even on fast errand/commuter roadies. The platform side grips well and is very comfy in normal shoes.

Another option if it is an image conscious road bike may be proper roadie spd's (520 etc) with the clip on and off platform that shimano do for those trips made without cleated shoes. I have this set up on my roadie and leave the platforms on to give me pedal reflectors for commute riding, again the platforms work well enough with trainers and Adidas samba type shoes.

 

[shouldbeinbed]

Another thing, avoid M424's. resin cage on a rocker mechanism round a 520 like inner, in theory gives you spd & platform on both sides. In reality, as platforms they are very uncomfortable in normal shoes as the spd is proud of the cage and you can feel it all the time effectively leaving you with an expensive, bulky & ugly M520.
Nice idea but its not quite worked

 

[Cubist]

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28051&PartnerID=2812&utm_source=Awin&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=generic&_$ja=tsid:41244|cgn:awin|kw:85386&awc=2698_1364542756_65d801c3ef67eecf6261a7eac55ac70b

If I got the above, I'm guessing these

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=167

would fit my shoes

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35525

Is it easy to do? I'm not very technically gifted!

I'm thinking I need to at least give clipless a go as I aim to up my mileage and try to improve


Reason for edit - I 'replied' to a wrong post! - see, technically challenged

The pedals you link to are my favourite entry level commute/tourer pedals. The cleats you link to will come free with the pedals, so you don't need to order any more. I don't think the shoes will be right though, as they aren't cleat compatible.

Browse again, but look to make sure the shoes are SPD compatible

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ladies/cycle/offroad-shoes/

 

[Phoenix Lincs]

The pedals you link to are my favourite entry level commute/tourer pedals. The cleats you link to will come free with the pedals, so you don't need to order any more. I don't think the shoes will be right though, as they aren't cleat compatible.

Browse again, but look to make sure the shoes are SPD compatible

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ladies/cycle/offroad-shoes/

Aren't they? These came in the box with them, and there's a 'remove this bit of sole' part.

Confused.com

 

[Cubist]

Aren't they? These came in the box with them, and there's a 'remove this bit of sole' part.

Confused.com

Whoops, I couldn't find reference to SPD in theblurb, and the price was so good I assumed they were just flat soled shoes. I've managed to make myself look a bit foolish then!

So, to answer your question again, yes, those pedals are great, the shoes ideal and you won't need to order the cleats as they will come with the pedals.

 

[Phoenix Lincs]

You don't look foolish. You look really helpful, so thank you.

I appreciate your help.

I'm now wondering whether to bite the bullet and order these on the web and risk being able to fit them myself or go to a bike shop (which will presumably cost more but I might get some help)

Thank you

 

[Cubist]

Bite the bullet..... but you'll need to bear a couple of things in mind, and have the right tools. The tools will cost what it would cost to have the job done at your LBS, unless you are an experienced eyelash flutterer, or take baked goods along as a bribe........ and you only need to buy the tools once!

Firstly you need to remove the old pedals. They'll either have spanner flats or allen key slots, or both. The spanner flats will be 15mm, so you need the right spanner, and a specific pedal spanner is better because of its shape, but not compulsory. The allen key slots will be on the inside of the pedal axle and will either be 6mm or 8mm.

The pedals are threaded differently on either side. On the drive side (right hand side) it's normal threading, so you need to turn the spanner anti-clockwise to remove it. Easiest way to remember is to set the crank arm so it's facing forwards at 3 O'clock. Put the pedal spanner on at 12 O'Clock and push towards the back of the bike to undo it. Put the chain on the biggest chainring and cover it with a rag before you try to undo the pedal, as this reduces the chances of spanner rash as the spanner slips and sends your knuckles towards the teeth of the chainring! It's likely to be stiff to remove, so be prepared to us quite a bit of leverage.

On the left, or non-drive side the thread is reversed, so you need to turn it clockwise to undo it. Again, put the crank horizontal with the pedal towards the front wheel, the spanner vertical and push towards the back wheel to undo it.

To put the new pedals on make sure you know which is left and which is right. It'll be marked on the pedals, but with your A520s it should be obvious. (the squarer end is at the back with the mechanism facing upwards. ) but to be certain look at the spanner flats where you'll see an L or an R . Clean the internal threads on the crank arm with a squirt of GT85 or similar, and apply a layer of grease or coppaslip to the pedal threads. Start on the right and start off the thread by hand. Do this reasonably carefully, as it's easy to cross-thread them. If it doesn't feel right stop and start again. You should be turning the thread towards the front of the bike. Snug it up by hand then use the spanner or allen key to tighten it properly. It needs to be quite firm.

repeat on the non-drive side, again, thread by hand turning towards the front wheel.

Hope this helps.

 

[Phoenix Lincs]

AMAZING help. Thank you so much. I'll copy this and print it out then check what I have in the garage before hitting the shops once I've pressed the 'checkout' option on my purchase

Half excited, half scared!!!!!!

Thanks for being a star. I may be back for more explanation though so watch this space.

Once I get to my laptop I'll send you a gold star or a medal! In the meantime, have a big smile :-D

 

[Phoenix Lincs]

Only just gone and ordered them! Hurry up postie!

 

[Phoenix Lincs]

Bite the bullet..... but you'll need to bear a couple of things in mind, and have the right tools. The tools will cost what it would cost to have the job done at your LBS, unless you are an experienced eyelash flutterer, or take baked goods along as a bribe........ and you only need to buy the tools once!

Firstly you need to remove the old pedals. They'll either have spanner flats or allen key slots, or both. The spanner flats will be 15mm, so you need the right spanner, and a specific pedal spanner is better because of its shape, but not compulsory. The allen key slots will be on the inside of the pedal axle and will either be 6mm or 8mm.

The pedals are threaded differently on either side. On the drive side (right hand side) it's normal threading, so you need to turn the spanner anti-clockwise to remove it. Easiest way to remember is to set the crank arm so it's facing forwards at 3 O'clock. Put the pedal spanner on at 12 O'Clock and push towards the back of the bike to undo it. Put the chain on the biggest chainring and cover it with a rag before you try to undo the pedal, as this reduces the chances of spanner rash as the spanner slips and sends your knuckles towards the teeth of the chainring! It's likely to be stiff to remove, so be prepared to us quite a bit of leverage.

On the left, or non-drive side the thread is reversed, so you need to turn it clockwise to undo it. Again, put the crank horizontal with the pedal towards the front wheel, the spanner vertical and push towards the back wheel to undo it.

To put the new pedals on make sure you know which is left and which is right. It'll be marked on the pedals, but with your A520s it should be obvious. (the squarer end is at the back with the mechanism facing upwards. ) but to be certain look at the spanner flats where you'll see an L or an R . Clean the internal threads on the crank arm with a squirt of GT85 or similar, and apply a layer of grease or coppaslip to the pedal threads. Start on the right and start off the thread by hand. Do this reasonably carefully, as it's easy to cross-thread them. If it doesn't feel right stop and start again. You should be turning the thread towards the front of the bike. Snug it up by hand then use the spanner or allen key to tighten it properly. It needs to be quite firm.

repeat on the non-drive side, again, thread by hand turning towards the front wheel.

Hope this helps.

Can't find a star - hope this will do, Cubist. Cheers, I owe you a ...
Lesley