Do your toes touch the ground?

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Nathjh

Guest
Wow! I'm glad I found this thread! The guy in my lbs set mine up with me on the bike, had me sat on the seat and being able to touch the ground partially but raised it a little as my legs were crunched up. Now I've read this and I'm all over the show! Tomorrow after I've done a bit of maintenance I shall be raising the seat to a mor comfortable level. Thanks.
 

Cyclopathic

Veteran
Location
Leicester.
The distance between the ground and your seat height is irrelevant. The only distance that counts is the saddle to pedal distance. When you come to a stop, you slide forward off your seat.
Or stop near the kirb.
 
Can't touch the floor with my toes either. I get really sore knees if the saddle isn't high enough and sounds like you need to up it a bit too if legs are getting cramped
 

Nathjh

Guest
Right. I've just been and had a look. Leaned myself against a wall so I didn't fall off. Bum on seat, heel on pedal. Absolutely straight leg... I'm stumped! Maybe I need a different size bike?! This cycling game isn't half confusing!!
 

Chris S

Legendary Member
Location
Birmingham
Should your toes be able to reach the floor when on the saddle?

Some people recommend this for safety reasons - it allows you to do an emergency stop if your brakes fail. The chances of both brakes failing at the same time are rather slim though.

Perhaps it only applies to those fixie riders who don't have them? It's not unknown for a chain to slip off.
 

Kookas

Über Member
Location
Exeter
Some people recommend this for safety reasons - it allows you to do an emergency stop if your brakes fail. The chances of both brakes failing at the same time are rather slim though.

Perhaps it only applies to those fixie riders who don't have them? It's not unknown for a chain to slip off.

If my brakes failed, putting my legs down is the last thing I'd want to do. I'd just find the steepest hill (easy enough in Birmingham) and go up without pedaling.

I'd definitely not trade off the benefit that applies to 100% of the time spent cycling just for a risk that will only apply to less than 1% of it.
 

deadpool7

Well-Known Member
I can barely touch with my tip toes but it wouldn't do me much good when stopping. I slide forward off the saddle at stops.
 

T.M.H.N.E.T

Rainbows aren't just for world champions
Location
Northern Ireland
Barely and I'm not challenged in the leg length department :whistle:
 

robjh

Legendary Member
Agree with most that's been said - can do tiptoes and leaning, but mostly by sliding forward off the saddle when I stop (or stop at a kerb and stay seated).
In the other direction, you can over-raise the saddle, and I find myself sitting very heavily on a saddle and getting back-ache. Sometimes just 1/2 cm adjustment can make all the difference.
 

Sara_H

Guru
I've got really bad balance (legacy of a herniated disc a few years ago) and if I can't touch the ground after stopping I'm prone to toppling over.
 

Monkreadusuk

Über Member
Had mine setup by my LBS using the heel method. However that doesnt seem to have done the trick. After a week of commuting (around 150 miles) my right knee is killing me. Doctor has said ive got fluid on the knee. Will have for fork out for a bike fit session me thinks :sad:

I have to lean to put a foot down, but not by much.
 
I can easily get both feet flat on the ground when I unclip after I've stop.
But I normally leave both my feet clipped in when I stop as it makes setting off so much easier/quicker.

Then again, I'm riding a recumbent trike and my bums only 8" off the ground ............... :laugh:
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
I can't see how you could put both feet down while sitting on the saddle and have your saddle height correctly adjusted - it is just not possible. When stopping you move forward off the saddle.
 

Blurb

Über Member
I can just touch on tiptoes and slide off or seek the kerb if stopped for any length of time.
Regarding the heel on pedal straight leg method. I think this is recommended as a starting point and adjust from there depending on your personal body structure. I actually used this method and had to move the saddle slightly higher on all my bikes to get comfortable. Shoe/foot size will make a difference.
My personal knee pain epiphany came when I realised it wasn't the height, but the fore-aft relative position of pedals to saddle. Once fixed all my knee issues were relieved.
 
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