andy_wrx said:
OK, to let Mickle out of his misery...
Best all-purpose spray lube : WD-40
It took 40 attempts to get this water displacing formula right, back in 1953. Today it's the mechanic's trusted friend. It's a secret mix of petroleum distillates, and repeated application leaves a yellowish coating that provides excellent corrosion protection - to remove the build-up you just use more WD! WD-40 frees seized parts, and can be used as a daily chain lube. If you park your bikes outside, or you only want to have one bottle of lube around the house, this is the one to go for.
OK, I may be being a bit semantic here, but I think the key word here is DAILY (well and also can as opposed to anything more forceful).
IMO, WD40 is a great solvent with mild short-term lubing capability, I think the word DAILY is important as it's lubing effect will not last much longer. Experience shows this to be the case with other lubing jobs around the house where simple oil is far more effective in long-term performance.
I'm becoming of the opinion that chains don't need a great deal of lube, there's not vast amounts of movement going through them and agree that chainrings and cassettes need very little too, so just a thin layer to keep it all quiet and smooth is fine. I don't subscribe to the grinding paste argument of heavily lubed chains either.
I'll go with the KMC advice/Mickle method and keep using that, every so often as required depending on bike use, no solvents required, no daily application.
Chain life it seems would be a great college project...
BTW, not just bicycles where the debate rages, plenty on motorcycles too...
Subject: Chain lubing and WD40
From: vfr@xxxxxxxxxxx at INTERNET
Date: 1/19/96 7:36 AM
Hi all, been almost lurking a while but had some time today.
One note about WD40 is that it is not a 'lubricant' for anything other
than light loads and corrosion protection coating. Also, it has some
kerosene in it, which is what makes it so good for cleaning things. In
my opinion, it should only be used for cleaning (I use straight
kerosene because I don't want to risk the propelants) and not for lubing.
O-ring chains do have lubricant in them, as discussed on this list before,
but that lube is only for the internal pivot points of the chain. That
lube will NOT protect the external wear surfaces (between plates and
sprocket contact) and an additional lubricant is required. One that
has enough body to stay on, and that is safe for o-rings. Going without
lubricant will only accelerate wear of all components and let things
rust.....leading to kinks and binding and all those other bad things.
As for not lubing a chain for off-road competition, I would agree with
that because the added grit you pick up in the dirt would add heavily
to wear. And typically these chains are cleaned and lightly lubed (WD40)
between races/events, and the chains are not expected to last 20K miles.
This does not work on the street where the grit level is much reduced,
and longevity is of concern. A lube (correct for o-rings whether
wax or oil or spray lube) is required. Yes, this will pick up some
grit and debris, but that is why cleaning is recommended. Both must
occur, and they require different products.
Just my opinion.
Carl, 94 VFR