DIY respray

[screenman]

Sorry, wrong again, they were brand new factory fresh vehicles, in fact apart from the two I gave details of, we also bought for one of our reps a brand new Ford Escort special edition with dark blue pearlised metallic paint which, interestingly enough, had very good paint on the front end, but the rear end was terrible and chipped and flaked terribly. Ford took it back and totally resprayed the car.

As it was such a bee in my bonnet I undertook a lot of detailed research into these water based paint problems and discovered a great deal of information the most important aspect being the finite importance of temperature in the drying ovens allied to the time spent in them.

Must admit it is not something I come across even though I play with bodywork most days. Glue pulling dents is also a thing we do a lot of, if the paint comes off it is always down to a dodgy repair after the factory.

 

[screenman]

Sorry, wrong again, they were brand new factory fresh vehicles, in fact apart from the two I gave details of, we also bought for one of our reps a brand new Ford Escort special edition with dark blue pearlised metallic paint which, interestingly enough, had very good paint on the front end, but the rear end was terrible and chipped and flaked terribly. Ford took it back and totally resprayed the car.

As it was such a bee in my bonnet I undertook a lot of detailed research into these water based paint problems and discovered a great deal of information the most important aspect being the finite importance of temperature in the drying ovens allied to the time spent in them.

I worked on 8 brand new straight from the factory cars in December my mobile paint guy did paintwork on about the same. I do not doubt that you had problems, what I am doubting is that the cause was the paint itself.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I do not doubt that you had problems, what I am doubting is that the cause was the paint itself.

Solvent based paint is easy to use and reliable. You paint it on, the solvent evaporates, and the paint cures hard. You don't require closely controlled climatic conditions for it to work, beyond avoiding cold/damp conditions (or you get "bloom")
Water based paints require facilities a tiny bit more sophisticated than Joe Bloggs will have in a domestic garage or spare room in the house! .

 

[screenman]

Solvent based paint is easy to use and reliable. You paint it on, the solvent evaporates, and the paint cures hard. You don't require closely controlled climatic conditions for it to work, beyond avoiding cold/damp conditions (or you get "bloom")
Water based paints require facilities a tiny bit more sophisticated than Joe Bloggs will have in a domestic garage or spare room in the house! .

Having been painting with WB since it come out and never once having had the conditions you describe I would have to disagree. There is a lot of fear and reluctance to adjust from many within the painting business, sad really. WB, you paint it on the water evaporates, no chance of solvent problems or reactions and it cures. No real difference apart from one uses nasty solvents as a carrier and the other uses water.

I must add that I have read many scare stories about the products but having had years of experience using it I discount most of them.

WB cures lovely with a low heat high volume hair dryer, also I have an additive that makes it usable as a touch up.

 

[RamoRuon]

You could try this.

https://spray.bike/

From my own experience, I'd advise sticking with their matte colours if you are intent on buying from them - the fluoro colours have an additive that can look like sand if not done evenly. I used black and fluoro yellow, and although it looks okay from a distance, only the black holds up to closer scrutiny.


All told, with primer, black, yellow and clear coat, I spent the best part of £40 (plus a tenner for DCM paint stripper, which turned out to be weak and therefore an utter PITA).


For that kind of money it could (and should) have been done professionally. Was nice to have had a go I suppose but I definitely advise a professional strip and respray. I certainly won't be using Spray.bike again in a hurry, let's put it that way .

HTH

 

[RamoRuon]

I used the Spray.Bike cans .... It was lot of work, and it was fun to do it once, but I probably wouldn't do it again.

This. Absolutely this.

It ended up an unholy fecking mess and I had to have it done properly by my LBS within a year.

Yeah, I'm expecting to have to do the same within a similar timeframe, unfortunately. OTOH, if it lasts, I'll be pleasantly surprised.

You've either got it or you haven't.

That's the caveat with these DIY jobbies, isn't it? The pictures/videos online make it look easy-peasy for amateurs but in reality they're typically pros with dozens (if not hundreds) of hours' experience with the product.


Oh well, you live and you learn !

 

[Gravity Aided]

I removed all of the paint and applied Linseed oil, gives a nice grey finish. They used Linseed oil to protect plane wings from rusting during the war, many wings were built with Reynold's 531 tubing.

View attachment 394128

Basic procedure: Remove all the paint with paint remover, rub down with fine wire wool, clean frame of paint remover, apply a thin coat of Linseed oil, let the Linseed oil dry for a few days, repeat linseed oil for a few thin coats, ensure that the previous coat is dry before applying another coat. Apply another thin coat every summer..........

Boiled Linseed oil? Seemed to me the boiled part was critical. Pretty, shows off the lugwork, steel, and brazing to great effect.

 

[Paulus]

This is what you can do if you put your mind to it---A truly fantastic job.

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/ian-may-rebuild.249123/

 

[GuyBoden]

Boiled Linseed oil? Seemed to me the boiled part was critical. Pretty, shows off the lugwork, steel, and brazing to great effect.

Yes, it is boiled.
It's £6 from B&Q:

 

[Gravity Aided]

I have an old Fuji Grand Touring that has that as the planned finish.