DIY respray

[Colin_P]

WB is brilliant paint, why do you think most cars you see are done using it.

I thought the base coats were WB but the outer laquer coat was still 2 pack as WB wasn't durable enough or have things moved on ?

No idea how solid colours work or are they now clear 2p over base wb ?

 

[Drago]

WB is brilliant paint, why do you think most cars you see are done using it.

Because of laws limiting evaporative solvent emissions.

 

[screenman]

I thought the base coats were WB but the outer laquer coat was still 2 pack as WB wasn't durable enough or have things moved on ?

No idea how solid colours work or are they now clear 2p over base wb ?

Correct.

 

[screenman]

Because of laws limiting evaporative solvent emissions.

WB gives better coverage and a lot better fade out for local repairs, also I am sure you like the point that you made. WB interior gloss is also something I like, bit different to apply but the ability to not yellow is a real bonus, and I would add I feel it is tougher.

 

[bikeman84]

Would anyone happen to know of any places I could get my bike resprayed in Liverpool? Or would any car paint shop do the job?

I am wanting my bike military green matte and the rims/spokes matte black so I'm guessing I would have to buy the paint for them?

 

[screenman]

I once bought a brand new, bright red VW Golf, it was manufactured approx. a year after VAG had started to use water based paints.
Within a week and only 150 miles of very careful and slow back road miles the body was peppered with in excess of 400 chips in the paint, not only to the leading edges of the front end, but in quite obscure places such as the rear end and in door shut lines. The chips were so very obvious as the base coat colour was white!

I immediately brought this matter to the attention of the service manager of the supplying garage, he immediately dismissed the matter as being stone chips! On hearing this I insisted on the VW service rep. inspecting the car and he too said it wasn't a matter of concern to VW as they were stone chips, so at my expense I then arranged for a paint expert engineer to undertake tests and his totally damning report was presented to both the garage and VW, their response was totally dismissive!

To cut a long story short, I took the matter to court and after 3 long years, during which time my credit rating was damned as I had opted to take my legal right of cancelling the finance package. In the end I was up against the very large garage franchise group, VAG UK Ltd. and the finance company in the County Court. If I had lost my case it was estimated that their combined legal costs would have been in excess of £150,000 which I would have had to pay, but I didn't I won!

A few years later I bought a new Land Rover Discovery, it had beautiful (water based) dark green metallic paint, very shortly after buying it, I noticed to my horror that the paint was very prone to stone chipping! So I brought the problem to the attention of the garages service manager, he immediately dismissed the matter as stone chips and as such not covered by the guarantee.
On hearing this, I asked him to walk with me to the front of their premises in Doncaster and pointed up the road to the nearby Jaguar dealership/franchise which so happened to be owned by the same large motor group as had owned the VW dealership. I suggested he went up to this dealership to ask them about their organisations legal battle with me about paint. The effect was immediate, without any more ado, he agreed their was a distinct problem with the paint and made immediate arrangements for another brand new Discovery to be supplied to me ASAP!

Very fortunately, these days, most companies now know how to apply water based paints!!

I owned a lot of cars with faded paint, flaking paint and other defects prior to WB paints being used. Your stone chipping problem is down to other factors as well more cars on roads throwing up more debris, thinner paint applications, driving style is another factor which effects many around thsess parts. Both our cars are wb painted my doing 25,000 a year Pam's about 15,000 neither are badly chipped.

 

[Poacher]

I hate anything to do with painting and tend to leave my bikes "as found" but can do it perfectly well if I need to. Preparation is everything and cannot be rushed. I'd also recommend waiting for some of the mythical hot summer days as it is best done outside on warm, dry days unless you have a very good dry, warm, garage.

It depends on what you want to achieve with regards to what paints to use and how to apply them. Rattle cans can give a very good finish but I've found it can chip easily, as can car paints sprayed on. It will look great for a special occasion bike and you can lacquer over the transfers.

For an everyday practical bike, I'd brush paint it in quality enamel, with patience it will look really good and once it finally cures will be very durable. The most recent one I done was a Royal Mail Pashley which came to me FOC but in terrible condition. I'm very happy with the outcome but I put an awful lot of work into taking it back to bare metal (complicated by the fact that it appeared to have dozens of coats of paint applied over the years so it took a lot of time to strip it. Nitromers didn't help much, I used a wire brush in the drill (wear a mask). A blowtorch and scraper can be good too.
View attachment 394069
Paintwork was in really poor condition and it needed re-painted simply to preserve the frame, otherwise I'd have left it alone (but I'm lazy!)
View attachment 394070
View attachment 394071

I feel it turned out fine but it took a lot of work. Bare metal re-paint - I did my very best to get rid of all the rust but still treated it with Hammerite Kurust, then two coats of red oxide primer and and two top coats of a red enamel which I felt looked a reasonable match for RM red. It also takes ages for these types of paints to dry enough for the next coat. Where people go wrong I feel is applying the second coat too quickly and the brush marks the base coat and leaves deep brush marks.

Absolutely brilliant work!
I recently repainted my old (early '70s?) Bob Jackson with brushed Japlac - it looks OK from about 10 feet away with one eye closed. If I ever pluck up enough courage I'll post a pic or two, probably in 'artistic' soft-focus...

 

[Alan O]

Would anyone happen to know of any places I could get my bike resprayed in Liverpool? Or would any car paint shop do the job?

I am wanting my bike military green matte and the rims/spokes matte black so I'm guessing I would have to buy the paint for them?

View attachment 394085

I've never used them myself, but I've seen recommendations for C & G Finishes, 274b Smithdown Road.

 

[bikeman84]

I've never used them myself, but I've seen recommendations for C & G Finishes, 274b Smithdown Road.

Thanks, might ride up there today. Any rough idea on their prices?

 

[buzzy-beans]

I owned a lot of cars with faded paint, flaking paint and other defects prior to WB paints being used. Your stone chipping problem is down to other factors as well more cars on roads throwing up more debris, thinner paint applications, driving style is another factor which effects many around thsess parts. Both our cars are wb painted my doing 25,000 a year Pam's about 15,000 neither are badly chipped.

Sorry but you are totally missing the point or possibly I didn't make it clear enough. The problems I experienced were not caused by the impact of stones, but because the paint was not adhering to the base coats, you could quite literally peel the combined top coat and lacquer off the base coat.

 

[C R]

Now that looks like something even I would attempt. I'm sort of hankering after an old steel frame for nostalgic reasons, if one comes up with decent tubing but tatty enough to make it cheap enough to make a hash of I could be tempted. Thanks for the link.

I can vouch for the spray.bike stuff, the paint was really easy to apply, great coverage and no significant runs, the lacquer, however was quite a bit trickier to get right without runs. As other people said, preparation is the key.

 

[Alan O]

Thanks, might ride up there today. Any rough idea on their prices?

No idea, sorry.

 

[screenman]

Sorry but you are totally missing the point or possibly I didn't make it clear enough. The problems I experienced were not caused by the impact of stones, but because the paint was not adhering to the base coats, you could quite literally peel the combined top coat and lacquer off the base coat.

Must admit I have never come across that on a factory painted car, I would suggest maybe an after factory paint job, many are.

 

[buzzy-beans]

Must admit I have never come across that on a factory painted car, I would suggest maybe an after factory paint job, many are.

Sorry, wrong again, they were brand new factory fresh vehicles, in fact apart from the two I gave details of, we also bought for one of our reps a brand new Ford Escort special edition with dark blue pearlised metallic paint which, interestingly enough, had very good paint on the front end, but the rear end was terrible and chipped and flaked terribly. Ford took it back and totally resprayed the car.

As it was such a bee in my bonnet I undertook a lot of detailed research into these water based paint problems and discovered a great deal of information the most important aspect being the finite importance of temperature in the drying ovens allied to the time spent in them.

 

[GuyBoden]

I removed all of the paint and applied Linseed oil, gives a nice grey finish. They used Linseed oil to protect plane wings from rusting during the war, many wings were built with Reynold's 531 tubing.

Basic procedure: Remove all the paint with paint remover, rub down with fine wire wool, clean frame of paint remover, apply a thin coat of Linseed oil, let the Linseed oil dry for a few days, repeat linseed oil for a few thin coats, ensure that the previous coat is dry before applying another coat. Apply another thin coat every summer..........