DIY advice.... plumbing this time.

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MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
The old chest of drawers is now stripped and beeswaxed and is looking good... :thumbsup:

I've also built a new sink unit which is ready and waiting to replace my existing sink, and the taps will be connected to the h/c water pipes with flexible hoses... I'm no plumber, but I reckon I'd be OK with old fashioned grommet fittings so long as i clean up the ends of the old 'painted' copper pipes... but have noticed a variety of push-fit flexi-hoses. Are these any good? Any tips on getting a leak free fit? There seems to be more than one type: push fit, speedfit. etc... are they all the same, some better than others... or am i best off just get the old fashioned compression/grommet thingies with oodles of PTFE???

pipes are 15mm, old and painted.

cheers ^_^
 

stephec

Squire
Location
Bolton
I fitted a new toilet using a push fit flexible, with a valve at one end, to 15mm copper pipe without any problems.

Might be worth cleaning the paint off first though to get a good seal.
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
All those flexible tap hoses work, but really do have to make sure that all the paint is removed off the end of the 15mm copper you are connecting to. If you don't, things may get horrible in the near or distant future. The problem with removing the paint is that you usually can't see the back of the pipe you are cleaning. I usually start with something like 100 grit sandpaper and then a lot of twists with some steel wool. Overdo the cleaning, don't skimp.

Another thing, never try to make the connection to the copper pipe too close to a bend in the copper...just don't. No jointing system will work on a rigid pipe that isn't straight where it is supposed to seal.

Finally, get a flexible hose that has a large internal bore in the flexible part. A lot are from abroad where there are high pressure mains water supplies. The often just dribble in the UK.

Edit: as User9609 said, if it's not actually metric copper, pushfit tap connectors are a bit of a no-no. You can get special olives that convert imperial pipe to metric compression fittings, but not in the DIY sheds.
 
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MontyVeda

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
[QUOTE 2819094, member: 9609"]If it is really old it may be ½" (internal) and it can sometimes be a bugger getting 15mm fittings to go on. Sometimes yorkshire fittings go on better, can you solder where it's at?[/quote]

I'd be able to get in to solder, but whether i can actually do the soldering bit is another question... I haven't noticed any flexi pipes with solder fittings though. Maybe a silly question... If it is 1/2" internal, what would the external be? 14-15mm i guess :blush: ... I assume i need to know before hand.

And thanks @slowmotion , I'm looking at something like this, i assume the 13mm is the internal bore. Similar products on Ebay state 'big' 12mm bore, others have 10mm... is the 10mm too small? Is 13 too small???

I shall utilise a small mirror to check the back of the pipe for paint :thumbsup:

cheers :smile:
 

Cycling Dan

Cycle Crazy
I never get them plumping tutorials on the internet. They keep banging stuff and leave a mess but the plumping is never finished. In fact I dont think they had much to do with plumping at all.
 
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MontyVeda

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
I never get them plumping tutorials on the internet. They keep banging stuff and leave a mess but the plumping is never finished. In fact I dont think they had much to do with plumping at all.
'video' and 'article' marketing has ruined the interweb! I've never fitted a ceramic tile in my life but I've written numerous 'how to' guides for all sorts of tiling jobs :wacko:
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
If you have never attempted a soldered joint before, it really isn't a good idea to start on an existing system when it is impossible to inspect the quality of the joint. You can't do it with a mirror round the back of the pipe, 30mm from the wall. Please don't.

Actually, I'll send you a PM. Ring me on Friday evening. I can explain it a lot better over the phone. Pipe and fitting sizes are a bit confusing if you are starting out.
 

Cycling Dan

Cycle Crazy
Do they all have dodgy 'taches and refer to the customer as , "oh yeah baby?"
I don't think Monty got it first time ha
That comment left me in a childish giggle
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
In that location with old, painted pipes I would go for compression fittings every time, with the additional precaution of a bit of PTFE tape wound round the olives.

Get the old paint off by heating it with the blowtorch and wiping it off with a big wad of wire wool, held in a thick leather glove, obviously.
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
I've never had a problem with 15mm and 1/2" it is with 22mm / 3/4" when you need a conversion olive or fitting.
Yes, absolutely. Imperial 3/4" pipe is 21.44 mm outside diameter which is too small for a metric 22mm olive, hence the need for a conversion olive. Imperial 1/2" pipe is 15.08mm outside diameter which should work with a standard 15mm metric olive.
 
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MontyVeda

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
cheers for all your help guys... I think I've now got the confidence to tackle it. I reckon I'll try to get the compression fitting as opposed to pushfit.

Now all i need to find is a flexible hose measuring between 600mm and a 1000mm with 15mm and 3/4" tap fittings, with an isolation valve... the iso-valve doesn't seem to feature on the longer hoses I've found.
 
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