lutonloony
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Disc brakes are advantageous in wet braking. However, that doesn't mean that they brake better under all conditions. The factor limiting your maximum stopping distance is isn't the brake itself, but the moment of inertia around your centre of gravity and the front wheel. In dry conditons, discs cannot make you stop quicker than reasonable quality rim brakes. You will endo before you reach the type of deceleration that will cause a front wheel to skid.
Disc brakes have some disadvantages though. They require heavier forks, are best paired with through-axle hubs rather than QR hubs, they are noisy, contamination reduces performance and increases noise and vibration and, cable disc brakes are a step backwards.
Disc brakes are still poorly understood with the trade who frequently match the wrong pads with a specific type of disc and then don't understand how the noise is generated under such conditions.
Disc brakes require very careful bedding in after each pad change and when new. Few people, including the trade, pay enough heed to this requirement and end up with substandard, disappointing brakes.
The biggest driver towards disc brakes on high-end bikes is carbon wheels, not better stopping. Carbon wheels don't like hub brakes at all. The biggest driver on entry-level bikes could be quicker reaction time in the wet but being a cynic, I'll say it is false belief that they are better overall. They are not.
That was always gonna happen, just a question of when.The experiment with discs in the pro peleton has been stopped due to some very nasty incidents during Paris Roubaix.
Open with care .....
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I don't think discs are needed on a road bike.
Please explain how you can stop (pull up?) much quicker in the dry with discs rather than other types? Tell us which brake works and does what at maximum deceleration.Have you ever ridden a road bike with hydraulic discs or a mountain bike ?
In the dry i can pull up much quicker than with rim brakes due to more power, feel and control on my road bike. The reason they are so popular on mountain biking is the level of control they give you for little effort. My mountain bike has QR hubs and i have set KOMS on it off road, through axels are better but again no issues. All brakes are noisy / perform poorly if contaminated. My old mountain bikes vbrakes would grind away in the wet and mud. I have skidded a front wheel under heavy braking due to lack of concentration on my part.
Bedding in disc brakes just takes a few sprints and hard controlled braking and you are good to go. Even better find a long hill to use.
They simply don't have more braking power. Braking is limited by end-over, not by the clamping force at the wheel. Calipers can already do an en-over, so deceleration in the dry with both brakes is equal.That was always gonna happen, just a question of when.
I also don't think they should be used in the peleton. Having greater breaking power makes crashes more likely in itself. Yes, the same or similar could happen with a chainring but a chainring 'has' to be there, a disk brake doesn't.
That was my thinking when I had the Rourke built. Apart from which rim brakes with decent blocks work just fine.Disc brakes are the future, But we are not seeing the best of them yet, The low end disc's are heavy and ugly, There will be a lot more to come from disc's, but at the moment i will stick with calipers.
Whenever I proposed this scenario on forums, people jump quickly to the "It isnt going to happen" argument." Road peleton racing is not like MTB race which is more akin to a time trial of many solo riders.That was always gonna happen, just a question of when.
Is your budget flexible? This is a good price with 105 and discs if the right size. More CX than road but you could probably add thinner slicker tyres and it doesn't sound like you want to raceIt seems that in my price range I'm unlikely to get discs and 105, so tempted to go the 105 route. Having a visit to Evans next weekend to see what " bangs for bucks" I can get