Damn Shifting!

[nmfeb70]

The cable was Shimano. I've never had this problem with Clarks cables in the past so maybe I'll go for those with a spray of GT85 in future.

 

[nmfeb70]

A probable cause. There are a number of kinks in the cable the same distance apart.. Shimano use zip ties to keep the cable tidy in the packaging which without a doubt causes this. From what I remember Clarks pack their cables in a cardboard package with no ties.

 

[Lovacott]

With a top quality pair of Draper cutters. It was as clean as a whistle.

During lockdown one, I didn't have access to a pair of decent cutters so I improvised with a pair of pliers I got from Lidl a couple of years ago.

What worked was neatly and tightly wrapping the cutting point in Cellotape and then cutting at the centre with pliers (constant force, no wiggling).

The tape prevented fraying and when removed, it was neat enough to fit the nipple end.

I've since got hold of a decent German made wire cutter.

Where I was getting frays was at the pinch bolts on the old mechs (very basic Shimano as fitted on a Halfords Apollo cheapy MTB) . They were very crappy. Basically a hex nut and pan head bolt shoved through a hole.

The new mechs have much better designed pinch bolts (Allen key with proper clamping plates) so I don't envisage the same thing happening again.

Time will tell .

 

[Gunk]

Little tip that I always do when fitting a new mech cable is to hold the mech firmly and then change gear a just a couple of clicks with the shifter.

not only does this pre-stretch the cable but it pushes all the end caps/ferrules into place.

I also tighten the cable with the chain on the second smallest cog and then adjust it out so it easily moves to smallest gear. This way you get much smoother indexing.

 

[Lovacott]

A probable cause. There are a number of kinks in the cable the same distance apart.. Shimano use zip ties to keep the cable tidy in the packaging which without a doubt causes this. From what I remember Clarks pack their cables in a cardboard package with no ties.

Kinks will do it. Anything which increases friction won't help.

Looks like you've solved your own problem?

 

[Lovacott]

Little tip that I always do when fitting a new mech cable is to hold the mech firmly and then change gear a just a couple of clicks with the shifter.

not only does this pre-stretch the cable but it pushes all the end caps/ferrules into place.

I also tighten the cable with the chain on the second smallest cog and then adjust it out so it easily moves to smallest gear. This way you get much smoother indexing.

Is that front or back or both?

 

[Gunk]

This is rear

but same principle applies to front, and I know it’s obvious, but set the limit screws without the cable attached.

 

[Lovacott]

This is rear

but same principle applies to front, and I know it’s obvious, but set the limit screws without the cable attached.

I set the small cog limit before I attached the cable last week when I fitted the new rear mech (as per Shimano instructions").

I set the big limit with the cable attached.

Judging by the strength of the spring in the new front mech, there is no way I will be able to pull it out to its big ring limit by hand.

 

[nmfeb70]

Problem hopefully solved. I fitted a Clarks cable this afternoon with a bit of GT85 and it slid smoothly into the new housing. A little indexing followed by a ride and everything seems ok (although the housing could be slightly longer). I'm disappointed with the Shimano packaging though - a top brand making a p*ss poor mistake like that.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I fitted a Clarks cable this afternoon

Great outcome. Which Clarks cable?
?? https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...s-universal-inner-bike-gear-cable-239608.html (£2 - stainless steel)

 

[nmfeb70]

Great outcome. Which Clarks cable?
?? https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...s-universal-inner-bike-gear-cable-239608.html (£2 - stainless steel)

Universal stainless steel cable with housing.

 

[Lovacott]

Problem hopefully solved. I fitted a Clarks cable this afternoon with a bit of GT85 and it slid smoothly into the new housing. A little indexing followed by a ride and everything seems ok (although the housing could be slightly longer). I'm disappointed with the Shimano packaging though - a top brand making a p*ss poor mistake like that.

What pissed me off, was having to pay £30 at Halfords six months ago for one half of this which cost me £17 from Clarks direct two weeks ago.

It's a front and rear disc brake set with calipers, discs, inner cables, outer cables and a spare set of disc pads for both front and back, for £17.00.

Crazy.

 

[Lovacott]

Universal stainless steel cable with housing.

Oooh. What grade of stainless steel was it?

 

[nmfeb70]

What pissed me off, was having to pay £30 at Halfords six months ago for one half of this which cost me £17 from Clarks direct two weeks ago.

View attachment 570160


It's a front and rear disc brake set with calipers, discs, inner cables, outer cables and a spare set of disc pads for both front and back, for £17.00.

Crazy.

Yes I know, I usually purchase them from eBay but my other bike is off road until I replace the shifter so I wanted the cable asap. I only buy tubes from Halfrauds, otherwise I don't go near the place.

 

[Lovacott]

Yes I know, I usually purchase them from eBay but my other bike is off road until I replace the shifter so I wanted the cable asap. I only buy tubes from Halfrauds, otherwise I don't go near the place.

Living where I Iive, there really isn't a lot of choice. The local bike shop wants a kings ransom for a pair of brake pads and they won't let you out of the door until you've purchased a £2000 bike with an extended warranty.

Harsh, but true.