Converting a Boardman 8.6 hybrid

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CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Difference is a tongsheng kit costs £600 but to get a bike with the equivalent torque bosch mid drives you are looking at 4k right? The difference is just too much imo. I've also seen that wait times for bosch if you have an in warranty fault can be long and if it breaks out of warranty then its going to cost another fortune.

I cant fault the TSDZ2 motor, my wife doesn't abuse it re thrashing the motor, but it is a lovely smooth device, very quiet. My friend has a Bosch with speed un limiter, again it is super smooth, but cost him £3.5k for second hand bike. The difference is minimal in feel/performance
 
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mtjnr

Regular
Yeah I still want to feel like I'm riding a bike rather than driving a motorbike as well which the mid drive seems to do better by some accounts. I have seen people say you still have to pedal hard to get full power but I'm assuming that you can still get up hills without being a sweaty mess at the end? The whole point for me is to get to work and bot need to shower and to help me go on longer rides at weekends. I'm hoping that it will help me lose some if my 151/2 stone as well! I don't do long rides now as I can't be bothered getting stuck on the numerous hills around where we live. Someone has suggested I go for the DWG hub but I feel like it might be overkill for my needs?
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Yeah I still want to feel like I'm riding a bike rather than driving a motorbike as well which the mid drive seems to do better by some accounts. I have seen people say you still have to pedal hard to get full power but I'm assuming that you can still get up hills without being a sweaty mess at the end? The whole point for me is to get to work and bot need to shower and to help me go on longer rides at weekends. I'm hoping that it will help me lose some if my 151/2 stone as well! I don't do long rides now as I can't be bothered getting stuck on the numerous hills around where we live. Someone has suggested I go for the DWG hub but I feel like it might be overkill for my needs?

If you use the highest level of assistance and lower gearing, you can climb easily with minimum exertion.

I would say that if you want to arrive at work guaranteed of feeling sweaty, you need to have more than 250W, especially if there are hills.

500W peak for short efforts, say 5 mins of climbing will certainly remove the effort of sweatiness.

Power offered by the motor is a multiple of your own power. So for example, you wanted to get up a steep hill and remain cool, non sweaty, you need a multiple of 3. Eg you produce 100W bike assists with 300W, totalling 400W.

Because my wife's bike is open software, I altered the percentage of assistance and added two extra levels. This gave her the option when faced with a steep hill to get into a gear and assist level that just made her breath heavily. We are talking a 12% gradient for 250 yds. Most folk would be gasping. She is not a regular rider.
 
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mtjnr

Regular
I had a test ride of the carerra crossfire e ams did my commute and back on that and yes you wouldn't say completely sweat free but the difference compared to non assist was that with non assist I would not be in a fit state to attend work without a shower lol
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
If you get the open software TSDZ2 you can then program different levels of assistance, increase power.

You don't have to raise the cut-off speed if you have no desire to travel a bit quicker without assistance.
 
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mtjnr

Regular
How dobyoubget the open software version? I was planning on getting the motor and battery via woosh so I can utilise cycle2work.
 
How dobyoubget the open software version? I was planning on getting the motor and battery via woosh so I can utilise cycle2work.

It is entirely understandable that modifications to the controller and the kit you receive will void any warranty you have with Whoosh.

I think you're in danger of overthinking this. You don't need more than a legal kit to do anything you have asked to do. If you're anywhere near Derby you're welcome to come and try my bike.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
but to get a bike with the equivalent torque bosch mid drives you are looking at 4k right?

Not quite, the Raleigh Motus is on offer for £1,700.

As I said the Tongsheng motor is a reasonable alternative to Bosch.

Your conversion will cost about £1,200, but unless you are skilled in this area, the finished product will look a bit scruffy, cables and cable ties all over the place.

For an extra £500, I would go for a factory built bike, not least because I rather like the Motus.

The whole package in terms of ride and handling works better than some other Bosch bikes I've tried.

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Raleigh-Motus-Cross-Bar-Derailleur-2023-Electric-Hybrid-Bike_247515.htm
 
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mtjnr

Regular
Bosch Active Line = 40nM
Tongsheng =80nM

To match that torque you need to get a bike with Bosch Performance CX.

If you can find a bike with a CX for less than 2.5/3k ill be shocked.

Also the motus has suspension fork which I don't want and downtube battery which I don't want.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Bosch Active Line = 40nM
Tongsheng =80nM

To match that torque you need to get a bike with Bosch Performance CX.

If you can find a bike with a CX for less than 2.5/3k ill be shocked.

Also the motus has suspension fork which I don't want and downtube battery which I don't want.

All torque/range figures should be taken with a large pinch of what we shake on fish and chips.

I doubt, in reality, those two motors ride significantly differently in terms of grunt.
 

gzoom

Über Member
Bosch Active Line = 40nM
Tongsheng =80nM

To match that torque you need to get a bike with Bosch Performance CX.

If you can find a bike with a CX for less than 2.5/3k ill be shocked.

Also the motus has suspension fork which I don't want and downtube battery which I don't want.

As people have said, the quoted figures makes little to no difference in the real world.

I got the Boardman 8.9e brand new onsale a few years ago for £2000.
 
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mtjnr

Regular
It's currently £2400. Twice the price of the self build I'm planning and will cost far more to fix and replace parts in 3/4/5 yrs time.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
@mtjnr To get an open software you have to either learn to program the controller and display or like I do buy abroad with it pre programmed with the Open software

I've hit a minor stumbling block getting my new (pre program open software)TSDZ2, the company I bought from last time no longer ships international. Not a problem, just an inconvenience I have to send unit to a friend in the States them have them post it on.

Re warranty, yes you lose the warranty, but having used the motor, had the extra functionality Im happy to take the risk.

Regarding wiring, there are only a few extra cables to deal with. I bought different sizes of heat shrink cable cover. Once I finished mechanical installation I tidied up all the spare cables inside heat shrink, used hot air dryer to shrink the tape and fitted it behind the seat downtube.

I suggest you join Endless sphere forum. They have a dedicated forum for the TSDZ2 and Bafang motors.

Far more open minded about modification and adaption. Have a good read before you take the decision.

Good luck. Happy to offer help on my installation, I know a few others have gone with Tongscheng on here, they seem happy enough
 
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mtjnr

Regular
Thanks for that I will take a look. Yeah I'm not fussed about the cables there are plenty of options. I plan to have a 1/2 frame bag attached anyway so cakes could easily be hidden between that and the top bar. I'm not planning on fitting the throttle either so no throttle, brakes cables etc to worry about. So it's one for the display and one for the speed sensor right? Woosh do a battery that fits in a saddle bag as well so the cable from battery to motor will just run up behind the downtube.
 
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