Complete noob looking for a hybrid(?) bike for daily commute, around 5 miles each way

[DCBassman]

Could you explain a bit about the suspension

Sure. This type of fork was developed gor mountain biking. By their nature, they are heavy lumps of kit. And at these lower price points, they are poor forks, hard to service. And they add weight, did I mention weight? If your bike can take wide tyres, say 38mm and up, then at the right pressure, they'll be great suspension on their own.

 

[MichaelW2]

MTB suspension forks are expensive, lightweight, finely tunes race kit. Hybrid suspension forks are fairly crude and heavy. They generally lack attachment eyelets for bolt on mudguards.
I ride a 2" fat slick tyre on rigid forks and float over rough cobbles.

 

[Electric_Andy]

Could you explain a bit about the suspension? I believe the suspension fork "bounces" with the surface as opposed to staying firm on the other bicycle, the university bike hard a "hard/firm" suspension and I had no issues with it, I'm not sure why this would be so crucial?

Suspension (front or back) is designed to give you a smoother ride over bumps and jumps. but if you're mainly cycling on the road or on fairly smooth ground, it is unecessary. Having suspension reduces the efficiency of your cycling because energy is absorbed through the forks and not transferred to the road. Also as others have said, suspension on cheaper bikes is usually poor quality and mostly for looks. Adjustment will be poor, so they'll be stiff like a pogo-stick or otherwise ineffective, and they'll be heavy. That's why you don't see suspension forks on road bikes generally.
Don't get me wrong, suspension has it's place and if you buy a bike with cheap suspension it's not going to be dangerous or anything, but it will make you burn a few more calories and possibly slow you up marginally

 

[DCBassman]

MTB suspension forks are expensive, lightweight, finely tunes race kit. Hybrid suspension forks are fairly crude and heavy. They generally lack attachment eyelets for bolt on mudguards.
I ride a 2" fat slick tyre on rigid forks and float over rough cobbles.

Exactly this. Mine are 54mm and very comfy.

 

[harlechjoe]

My priority would be to ensure the frame of your bike is right size and in good condition. Components are usually are upgraded or replaced when worn. Second hand bikes offer great value for money.

 

[Reynard]

As others have said, you don't need suspension for the kind of riding you intend - at that price point they're going to be more of a hindrance than a help, anyway. The best suspension comes from picking the right tyres. And using your knees.

If you're not adverse to buying used or doing a bit of tinkering, something like a rigid mid-1990s steel MTB with 26 inch wheels might suit - the precursor to the "modern" hybrid. They're nigh on unburstable, they're a comfy ride and are really good workhorses. Plus they're not "flashy" so ultimately less nickable as well. Something like a Raleigh Pioneer or, if you're lucky to find one, an M-trax. Then stick some commuter tyres on, like a Schwalbe Road Cruiser (slick, but with good puncture protection) and you're pretty much sorted.

And of course, don't forget to budget for a rack, panniers, decent (full-length) mudguards, lights and a couple of decent locks. Best to lock the bike front and rear if it's out of your sight for any length of time.

 

[TaylorCycle541]

Hi all,

Thank you for the many replies and apologies for my lack of replies, it's been a long few days without internet. The consensus seems to be a 2nd hand option but I am still set on new where possible, I'm unsure if what I am looking for is unavailable within my budget (£320~ ceiling), or if a 2nd hand bike will get me going so that I can identify what I would like in a more expensive model. I know this may be a cardinal sin in the cycling world but the three year bike care/warranty Halfords offer is very attractive to me, the idea of an issue arising before/after work then trying to fix it before tomorrow isn't very appealing.

I have created a separate budget for other components such as lights, locks and helmet so the bike purchase is separate from those. I appreciate all the advice however, for the most part I am still confused. The Apollo bike listed within my original post seems good value at a glance as it comes with mud flaps, has a rigid fork, good brakes(?) and an average of 4.2/5 with 151 reviews. However, @MichaelW2's previous post about low end Apollo items has given me some doubts.

I am starting to see bicycles deals posted frequently on the "HotUKDeals" website which is an option, although a purchase without enough time to thoroughly research, along with the comments on there also conflicting one another is not ideal. Is there a general order of importance for the components so I can snatch a good bike should one appear in a deal? For example:

1. Frame material
2. Tyre width
3. Brake material
4. Gears

 

[MichaelW2]

The decent mass market frame material is aluminium . I dont pay much attention to the various numbers. It all works well enough.
Steel is used for new low end bikes ( hi ten steel) with very poor frame alignment. It used to be used for entry level midrange made to higher standards and quite rideable.
Steel is also used on new high end.
In the used market all grades/ price ranges. Chromoly or a Reynolds steel is a mark of quality.
Pick up the bike. It it weighs like an anchor avoid it.

Tyre clearance is set at the brakes and frame. I find 32mm just fine but a bit more is better. 38 is the useful max. V brakes, cantilever and disk brakes do not limit tyre size.

With gears you need a low enough gear for worst case load, gradient surface.
Mtb/ hybrid bikes with 3 front chainrings give good low and wide gear range.
2 chainrings can be set too high ratio for racing (39/52). Some have smaller/lower ratio rings( compact double 34/50).
I like 8 speed for everyday riding, cheap widely available and enough options.

 

[DCBassman]

The Apollo bike listed within my original post seems good value at a glance as it comes with mud flaps, has a rigid fork

I'd agree that everything's ready to go. Halfords' reputation for delivering a properly built bicycle is, however, somewhat variable. If you buy from Halfords, be prepared to check it or get it checked elsewhere. Otherwise, if the Apollo appeals, go for it!