Lovacott
Über Member
Feel free.Time to hit the ignore button.
Feel free.Time to hit the ignore button.
I've not made a contribution to the thread as I feel there is sufficient advice, however, I am interested to hear how you're getting on with the problem?there have been a few gems of wisdom which will get me over my problem.
I won't know for certain until I get the new rear mech tomorrow, but it seems to be a very weak rear derailleur tension spring.I've not made a contribution to the thread as I feel there is sufficient advice, however, I am interested to hear how you're getting on with the problem?
Cool... good luck... 🍀I won't know for certain until I get the new rear mech tomorrow, but it seems to be a very weak rear derailleur tension spring.
I'll post an update once I've fitted the replacement.
The amount of tension in a spring (generally) below its elastic limit does not weaken the spring. The spring's strength will very very slowly reduce with age, and yours is 6 years old. The ability of the RD to provide sufficient tension in the return stretch of the chain will be undermined by a chain which is too long.fair bit of opposing force on the rear derailleur which in turn, weakens the spring.
"The original worked a treat." You mean you didn't experience chain suck with it. This does not mean it was the correct length.I've been sizing my new chains based on the original, because the original worked like a treat.
On the subject of chain length, can you fathom this?
I'd like to think that I've avoided any replies which a reasonable person could construe as contemptuous, patronising, or vitriolic. Exasperated, maybe, but hey, ho. My aim is to get you the best outcome. AS a matter of interest, which gems of wisdom do you most appreciate, from this thread?there have been a few gems of wisdom
That may well be the case and I'm pretty sure I've never said otherwise.@Darius_Jedburgh: "Effective chain length is too long so you are getting chain suck." (answer: the old chain was fine, so the new one must be the right length)
Lol, Thing is its very easy to take some one up wrong when you are reading a reply, if there where a few cyclists (friends) sitting around talking any thing even name calling would be considered banter or fun. best thing is lots have tried to help, you posted a question and CC members have spent there time trying in my view to help not give any one a bad time, ps good luck.
I've fitted my chain by following the instructions on the tin.Place the chain over the largest sprocket and the largest chain ring and bring the ends together without routing the chain through the derailleur.
View attachment 569227
Notes:
1) Their "2 links" measure one inch.
2) If 'in between', go longer, not shorter.
3) Cannot be sure the old chain was the correct length, even if you fitted it.
Deliberately so. Follow the image you've shared and your chain will be the correct length. The extra one inch link makes the allowance needed when the chain is threaded through the RD cage. When in small/small the return stretch of the chain should be 8-15mm clear of the chain going round the tension pulley.They show a groupset without a rear mech in their chain sizing examples?
I don't doubt what you say for a second, but two links added to take up a whole rear mech? That's why I questioned the picture I posted.Deliberately so. Follow the image you've shared and your chain will be the correct length. The extra one inch link makes the allowance needed when the chain is threaded through the RD cage. When in small/small the return stretch of the chain should be 8-15mm clear of the chain going round the tension pulley.
Well I've just gone out and measured the difference in chain run (with chain on large/large) between 'direct' and 'through the RD cage' of my most accessible bike.two links added to take up a whole rear mech?
Deliberately so. Follow the image you've shared and your chain will be the correct length. The extra one inch link makes the allowance needed when the chain is threaded through the RD cage. When in small/small the return stretch of the chain should be 8-15mm clear of the chain going round the tension pulley.
The protocol (for establishing correct chain length) works for others, so there is something awry (and it isn't Shimano).I can only assume that the rear mech needs fewer links removed than Shimano claim?
Glad that is a candidate 'pearl of wisdom' (upthread) - but I'd just point out that it might seem to work but I suspect you don't know that it works (same with me: as well as that (with new chain and new cassette and all clean) I replaced the worn middle chainring (30,000+km) - chain suck ceased.On the plus side, popping a cable tie around the chain stay about 1cm behind the line of the smallest chain ring works a bloody treat.
The female body of the cable tie is exactly the right size and length to protrude out just enough to untangle a wrapping chain.