Chain falling off front mech

[Peter Salt]

https://cycling-obsession.com/modern-shimano-front-derailleur-adjustment-guide/

Interesting input from peter salt led me to read about the tension lines on the FD
That link is the long winded explanation
Good awareness Peter...so thanks for that

No problemo, I just remembered reading the dealer's manual when I was installing mine so knew about it. Didn't quite remember the correct terms though

Incidentally, I seem unable to find those manuals nowadays on Shimano's website? Luckily, downloaded a copy some time ago so attaching it below.

Another thing that I practically almost always see is that manufacturers/bike shops/etc. rarely fit the outer resin cap as shown on page 17 (this also seems to be the case here). Next time you release your cable, fit one in - in my experience, it does slightly improve the shifting and extends the life of the FD. Even if it's a 'bare' cable going into it - cut off 5mm of outer cable, stick the cap on and fit it in.

 

[slowmotion]

I found this clip really good for setting up the FD limit screws.

[media]
]View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyz0bJ38Y4I[/media]


It helps of you disconnect the FD cable while going through this. You can shift from gear to gear just by pushing the FD with your fingers. Once the limit screws are set, reconnect the gear cable and fiddle about with the indexing using the barrel adjuster.

 

[fraz101]

30 miles tonight and all good so far.

 

[boydj]

With some setups, even when they are well adjusted, switching chain rings when the chain is on one of the extremes at the rear makes a chan drop more likely. Dropping to the small ring should be done before you get down to the two largest cogs at the rear, so that the chain is not at too much of an angle. Similarly, you shouldn't wait until you are on the smallest cog before changing up to the big ring. This does require a bit of planning and anticipation, looking at how the gradient is changing on the road ahead of you, but it does make a chain drop less likely.

 

[fraz101]

With some setups, even when they are well adjusted, switching chain rings when the chain is on one of the extremes at the rear makes a chan drop more likely. Dropping to the small ring should be done before you get down to the two largest cogs at the rear, so that the chain is not at too much of an angle. Similarly, you shouldn't wait until you are on the smallest cog before changing up to the big ring. This does require a bit of planning and anticipation, looking at how the gradient is changing on the road ahead of you, but it does make a chain drop less likely.

Yes I think the times when it’s fallen off mostly is approaching junctions quickly,and not having time or hoping I can remain in gear to keep going but having to change at last minute.

 

[Gunk]

I had a problem with my Campagnolo record set up, in the end I stripped the whole lot and started from scratch with alignment, cable tension, idle screws. Took about two hours but I managed with a lot of patience to get it shifting like a Swiss watch in the end.

There is something in technique, they don’t like shifting from the smaller cog up to the larger cog under load, you should almost be freewheeling to get a smooth shift.