Cassette Rubbing Frame

[Jimmy Welch]

The locking screw for the cassette was rubbing against the chain stay drop outs and tiny spacer in the freehub central axel locking nut moved the whole free hub and cassette a couple of mm away from the dropout and the point of fix for the whole rear axel is now centred on the central axel

Plus the cassette was ever so slightly out of sync as I'd put it back crudded up and a couple of cogs were missligned

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Moving away from microwaves (is that to obliterate data on the cassettes?), What was the error the OP 'found'? A missed spacer? How could adding a spacer move the cassette away from the dropout. Sorry to be dense: help me here.
It's an 11 speed cassette.

The spacer wasn’t fitted properly with a gap between it and the adjacent cogs. Taken off, refitted properly, and retightened is my understanding

 

[Sittingduck]

Agreed^ it was a gunked up spacer causing the artificially fat cassette

 

[Ajax Bay]

tiny spacer in the freehub central axel locking nut moved the whole free hub and cassette a couple of mm away from the dropout and the point of fix for the whole rear axel is now centred on the central axel

"Gunked up spacer" within the cassette? Incompatible with description above. The OP says that they inserted a 2mm washer inside the freehub locknut (on the axle) thus moving the locknut 2mm 'out' and proud of the cassette lockring.
Note this didn't move the cassette relative to the wheel, but did effectively move it 2mm left cf right dropout.
This implies that the whole wheel will now be one mm left of centre, relative to the frame.
Have you had to adjust rim brakes? (Ignore Q if discs, because the rotor will still be perfectly aligned, on the right side: that locknut hasn't moved.)
Question to the OP: Taking the QR out, is the protruding axle the same length both sides now (and for a bonus, how many mm)?

 

[Jimmy Welch]

"Gunked up spacer" within the cassette? Incompatible with description above. The OP says that they inserted a 2mm washer inside the freehub locknut (on the axle) thus moving the locknut 2mm 'out' and proud of the cassette lockring.
Note this didn't move the cassette relative to the wheel, but did effectively move it 2mm left cf right dropout.
This implies that the whole wheel will now be one mm left of centre, relative to the frame.
Have you had to adjust rim brakes? (Ignore Q if discs, because the rotor will still be perfectly aligned, on the right side: that locknut hasn't moved.)
Question to the OP: Taking the QR out, is the protruding axle the same length both sides now (and for a bonus, how many mm)?

No sorry the spacer/washer went on the end of the axle so to put a small 1mm (the width of the washer ) gap between the dropout and the freehub , as regards the spacers within, the cassette , you know the kind of muck which is so old and hard it hard to tell if it's muck or metal , until it comes away in a plate , that's what we are talking about here , So all we have done is got the spacers to sit perfectly flush on each gog and secondly ensured that when the when the QR is tightened up the dropout does not compress the cassette and dropouts together

 

[gbb]

MY fulcrums have spacer tubes either side and importantly, theyre slightly different lengths, i reassembled once and had exactly the same problem, id put them back the wrong way round .

And obviously, as mentioned, make sure the axles are sitting correctly in the dropouts.

 

[Nicthekid]

I'm having a somewhat related issue myself with cassette and chain rubbing the frame. I have a 12-speed cassette mounted on a Tune hub. It gets pushed into the frame. I've been in touch with Tune who tells me a "pinion stop ring" or "sprocket stop ring" will help me sort the issue and convert the freehub from 11 to 12speed. But I can't really picture it in front of me. Will it work or do I have to buy a whole new hub?

 

[fossyant]

Has the bike been 12 speed already. Have you changed wheels/hub ? 12 speed gets a bit complicated as SRAM and Shimano have XD and microspline freehubs for 12 speed, but some of the third party cassettes and lower end SRAM and Shimano will fit a standard freehub but you don't use a spacer. You need the last tooth of the cassette to be a couple of mm more than the edge of the freehub so that the lockring has just enough room to tighten properly.

Any more and the cassette will catch the frame.

 

[Nicthekid]

No it hasn't. I bought the wheels second hand (MCFK 35MM with Tune Prince hub) and the previous owner had 11 speed Shimano and I am using 12 speed Shimano.
So this lock ring that Tune customer service are talking about could actually do the trick?

 

[Cycleops]

In these situations a good 'eyeball' can reveal a lot. Upend the bike and have a look at the cassette side of the drop out. Can you pull that side away from the cassette to give sufficient clearance? How much does it look like it needs to move? In fact if you could post a pic that would help us. A pic of the other side of the hub would be good too.

 

[Nicthekid]

A Zipp wheel, no issues.

The Tune hub, not enough space.