Cassette lock ring will not budge

[derrick]

I may have exaggerated a little with 60cm tap wrench. It was more like 40 cm similar to this one:

http://www.diy.com/departments/rothenberger-basin-wrench/139416_BQ.prd

That said it was starting to bend at the joint so backed off.

I might have access to a vice later so will give it another go. I like the idea of using my bike stand leg for extra leverage though it might be tricky using it with the chain whip.

There is to much flex in that, you need something solid.

 

[Robeh]

i use one simular to this(apologys for the size off image)and have removed some realy tight lockrings lol

 

[Yellow Saddle]

i use one simular to this(apologys for the size off image)and have removed some realy tight lockrings lol

The problem with these in a really bad wheel is that the handle bends. It either twists and folds or bends like a banana. The other problem with these tools is that the handle is not hard steel, just mild steel. We've had them strip off around the black socket. I eventually banned our mechanics from trying to use the tool in such scenarios. The customer either pays as I described above or takes the wheel to someone else who can destroy their tools.

I get the impression the OP here is talking about a basket case, not your everyday grunt-and-it-will-budge case.

 

[MickeyBlueEyes]

Spanners are bending trying to release a cassette lock ring?!?! And all this talk of putting wheels in vices?!?! I can hear my wheels squealing in horror from here!

I know I'm not being much help but there is something seriously wrong if you can't undo the nut with a whip and a nudge with a spanner. 40Nm as stayed on the lock ring itself (mine anyway, cant speak for them all) is what it's been designed to be torqued to. In the world of hanging off spanners this is a mile away from there. When tightening it up without a torque wrench you can't possibly know the result of your actions. Treat yourself to a wrench and do it the way its supposed to be done.

Lockrings have a pretty shallow & fine pitched thread. Maybe threads have been crossed somehow?

 

[mcshroom]

I have a long piece of steel tubing for this sort of job which slots over the adjustable wrench. It's especially a problem for freewheels which slowly tighten in use.

Never managed to damage anything yet.

 

[Robeh]

The problem with these in a really bad wheel is that the handle bends. It either twists and folds or bends like a banana. The other problem with these tools is that the handle is not hard steel, just mild steel. We've had them strip off around the black socket. I eventually banned our mechanics from trying to use the tool in such scenarios. The customer either pays as I described above or takes the wheel to someone else who can destroy their tools.

I get the impression the OP here is talking about a basket case, not your everyday grunt-and-it-will-budge case.

i can see the need to use a FR-5 in a workshop because you arent to know how tight the lockring's are,but for me i can get away with using the tool as above.
any lockring's i remove are tighened to 40NM so i never have a problem removing them(yet)..

 

[Yellow Saddle]

i can see the need to use a FR-5 in a workshop because you arent to know how tight the lockring's are,but for me i can get away with using the tool as above.
any lockring's i remove are tighened to 40NM so i never have a problem removing them(yet)..

The problem is, once you're known as a good workshop, people bring these basket case jobs in to you. They've been everywhere else in town and blame everyone other than themselves. Usually it is the owner who is the culprit.

Someone mentioned fine-pitched thread. A fine pitch thread is much easier to overtighten than a course pitch since there is less ramp friction. Some people consider cassette installation as an exercise to prove their manhood.

 

[Robeh]

The problem is, once you're known as a good workshop, people bring these basket case jobs in to you. They've been everywhere else in town and blame everyone other than themselves. Usually it is the owner who is the culprit.

Someone mentioned fine-pitched thread. A fine pitch thread is much easier to overtighten than a course pitch since there is less ramp friction. Some people consider cassette installation as an exercise to prove their manhood.

Yeah i can imagine some off the jobs you get.you guys certainly earn your money lol

 

[derrick]

Can't see any good cycle mechanic having a problem with that, worst way take it to a local garage and get them to air gun it of. Simples

 

[slowmotion]

Use a telescopic car wheel nut wrench and fit the cassette lock ring socket into the 1/2" drive. You can get ones that are 550mm long or so. If it will remove a wheel nut, it will almost certainly shift a lock ring (assuming you can hold the cassette).

http://www.allhomespares.co.uk/rols...=b45e4f6b59c9378db320548a72cdcad1&fo_s=gplauk

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Use a telescopic car wheel nut wrench and fit the cassette lock ring socket into the 1/2" drive. You can get ones that are 550mm long or so. If it will remove a wheel nut, it will almost certainly shift a lock ring (assuming you can hold the cassette).

http://www.allhomespares.co.uk/rols...=b45e4f6b59c9378db320548a72cdcad1&fo_s=gplauk

That's a very poor tool for the job. The offset is too much and much of your force goes into levering the tool out of its seat in the lockring. The lever needs to be as close to the lockring as possible.

A job like this is a problem for a workshop. Most people start all helpful and first break the weakest tool, then the second-weakest, then skin some knuckes, then bend the expensive ParkTool heavy duty chain whip, then then then.....

At the end of the day, as a respect to everyone's safety and sanity, an air impact driver saves the most money and skin. Let the customer pay or have him take it back tot he culprit.

 

[Pat "5mph"]

I have a long piece of steel tubing for this sort of job which slots over the adjustable wrench. It's especially a problem for freewheels which slowly tighten in use.

Never managed to damage anything yet.

I use the tubing of an defunct garden umbrella for leverage, works a treat.
Once (before I killed the umbrella) there was a freewheel I could not remove.
Walked to Halfords (nearest bike shop) with the wheel and my freewheel remover: first mechanic couldn't do it, the second one to try had been to the gym

 

[fossyant]

I have a long piece of steel tubing for this sort of job which slots over the adjustable wrench. It's especially a problem for freewheels which slowly tighten in use.

Never managed to damage anything yet.

I've had to resort to a garden hoe on the end of a 12 inch spanner to remove freewheels before.

 

[ANT 666]

Last time i removed the free wheels off my MTB i used my eletric impact driver, took the use of two batteries and still it was stuck!
In the end took the free wheels to bits in situ then got some fire on the threaded part came off sweet as a nut.put it all back together again and bingo.
had to do it on both set of wheels, I had put copper slip on the threads before assembly but still they were a real bugger to get off.

 

[accountantpete]

I got fed up with one stubborn Ultegra cassette so carefully hacksawed through one of the spacers (and not the freehub).

Once the spacer was removed I pushed the small ring away from the locknut and then gave it another heave - with success!