Car D.I.Y.

[Fastpedaller]

It might only be a weep...

I have to my disgrace been looking at the tide mark on the expansion bottle thinking it was the water level.

The is a bit of crust around one side of the radiator, which is quite new... Being OAT coolant, you don't get the old c
blue crustyness hence the dye idea.

I was looking at this type of thing (I have access to a good UV lamp)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37228593...6Rec-NnSUe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


What got me thinking about the coolant was a humid feeling in the car making me think about the heater matrix, but we have been on a camping holiday with lots of beach and wet towels and wetsuits in the car.

I need to do more research, but the car seems to have an electric heater, not sure if it is additional / Aux or if it has a traditional matrix too.

I thought we had a leak into the underside of my Wife's car - when I took the spare out (was having a tyre changed and taking the wheel to them rather than have them 'dugga -dugga' the wheelnuts) the wheel had a little rust and was damp underneath....... then I found the small folded umbrella which was still damp, and had somehow got under the boot liner into the spare wheel well

 

[Tom B]

I had a slow drip after taking radiator out to change starter motor a couple years ago, but radweld stopped it, and has lasted, bit surprised but happy

That or Kseal is plan B

I need to establish how quickly it's loosing fluid, could be miniscule or moderate.

No use for that car until Sunday so I won't know until then and maybe not even then.

 

[fossyant]

Works van had a new Ad-Blue tank under warranty, despite being quite high mileage and using a fair bit of the stuff, it failed, I suspect crystallised, the Wynns additive gets good reports, even just bang it in the tank and it clears the blockage, I think it’s going to be more prevalent in low mileage vans to crystallise as a tank full lasts about 5000-6000 miles, I do about 6 full tanks of Ad-Blue a year, the 1.6 Diesel has, touch wood, been pretty good, the 2.0 120BHP seem to eat clutches, and drive shafts, but ours are loaded up to the max all the time.

Looking at about a 3/4 year old van, low mileage as poss (limited market for the van I want), but it won't have a high mileage - it won't move all week, then go on trips at weekends, so the adblue could be in there some time. Might need to know how to drain it as 5k miles a year would be a push on use.

 

[Drago]

You can get stuff to put in the adblue to prevent unwanted crystallisation.

An additive for the additive - oh then irony!

 

[DRM]

You can get stuff to put in the adblue to prevent unwanted crystallisation.

An additive for the additive - oh then irony!

Yep it’s utterly ridiculous isn’t it, I’d try the Wynns stuff out, rather than trying to drain it, it’s awful stuff and stains and leaves crystals on the floor/paint work if spilled

 

[Drago]

The only trouble I had with Adblue was hitting some debris in the road (a rusty silencer) and smashing the combined tank/pump unit. The parts alone were over a grand so I left it to the insurers to resolve. And then sold the car.

 

[Cletus Van Damme]

Been preparing my 2013 Honda Civic for rust proofing today. Took the rear wheel arch liners off, engine cover, huge mid section cover and the rear cover that sits just behind the suspension beam. The car is in really good shape as its only done 37K, had a Mazda 2 before this and that was rust city compared to this. Crap job, but want this to last a while. Couldn't be bothered taking the front wheel arch liners off as they are usually way better than the rears, going to do that next year and not bother taking any other covers off just top up the bits outside of the covers.

Going to spray it with degreaser tomorrow and lightly pressure wash it. Then hopefully the day after cover the bottom of the car with Bilt Hamber UB and UC, use S50 cavity wax in chassis legs and the sills. Then the day after have to put all this crap back on. Pleased I bought some spare trim clips as broke quite a few. All in all a pretty horrible thing to do, but well worth it..

The squashed cooking oil bottle on the ramp is something I read on the internet, to let you know when the car is on the ram, near the end. Some great stuff on there at times.

 

[Jameshow]

You can get stuff to put in the adblue to prevent unwanted crystallisation.

An additive for the additive - oh then irony!

I brought ad blue from Wickes cheap but then the engine service light came on. Could it be dodgy ad blue?

 

[Drago]

I brought ad blue from Wickes cheap but then the engine service light came on. Could it be dodgy ad blue?

I know VW have rejected warranty claims on the basis that the adblue was not to spec (even when allegedly the adblue was purchased from a dealer!) so I guess it's possible. It doesn't like sunlight, degrades more quickly, so I avoid anything in a clear container.

I'm tempted to have it mapped out on the camper but the environmentally aware part of me baulks at the idea. I'll see how it goes.

 

[Fastpedaller]

Just P#ss in the pipe?

 

[screenman]

Been preparing my 2013 Honda Civic for rust proofing today. Took the rear wheel arch liners off, engine cover, huge mid section cover and the rear cover that sits just behind the suspension beam. The car is in really good shape as its only done 37K, had a Mazda 2 before this and that was rust city compared to this. Crap job, but want this to last a while. Couldn't be bothered taking the front wheel arch liners off as they are usually way better than the rears, going to do that next year and not bother taking any other covers off just top up the bits outside of the covers.

Going to spray it with degreaser tomorrow and lightly pressure wash it. Then hopefully the day after cover the bottom of the car with Bilt Hamber UB and UC, use S50 cavity wax in chassis legs and the sills. Then the day after have to put all this crap back on. Pleased I bought some spare trim clips as broke quite a few. All in all a pretty horrible thing to do, but well worth it..

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The squashed cooking oil bottle on the ramp is something I read on the internet, to let you know when the car is on the ram, near the end. Some great stuff on there at times.

Another tip, tie some rope around the bottom of the ramp, take the other end and place it just in front and under the back tire, then when you move forward the weight of the car on the rope stops the ramp from moving. It is amazing the things I have picked up after over fifty four years in the motor trade fifty of those running my own businesses.

 

[DRM]

Works van had a new Ad-Blue tank under warranty, despite being quite high mileage and using a fair bit of the stuff, it failed, I suspect crystallised, the Wynns additive gets good reports, even just bang it in the tank and it clears the blockage, I think it’s going to be more prevalent in low mileage vans to crystallise as a tank full lasts about 5000-6000 miles, I do about 6 full tanks of Ad-Blue a year, the 1.6 Diesel has, touch wood, been pretty good, the 2.0 120BHP seem to eat clutches, and drive shafts, but ours are loaded up to the max all the time.

So, I spoke too soon, the latest fault has now reared it’s ugly head, Citroen/Peugeot strikes again, had a week off, came to swap car and van round ready for going to work , stupid thing won’t start, just turns over, not a cough or any evidence of fuel getting through, i’m thinking fuel fault, or immobiliser fault, not my problem AA can sort it, or recover it, Monday morning AA Called, out described what’s going on and he says, I think it’ll go, so he jumps in keeps turning it over until after much coughing knocking & rough running it goes, according to AA man they’re renowned for it on this engine, they develop a pin prick in fuel system that allows all the diesel to drain back to the tank, it lets air in, but not diesel out, also they don’t have a priming pump on them so you just have to keep turning it over until it starts and leave it ticking over 15 to 20 minutes to self bleed, what a pile of junk! It did the same after this bank holiday but was a bit quicker to go.

 

[Cletus Van Damme]

Another tip, tie some rope around the bottom of the ramp, take the other end and place it just in front and under the back tire, then when you move forward the weight of the car on the rope stops the ramp from moving. It is amazing the things I have picked up after over fifty four years in the motor trade fifty of those running my own businesses.

That's a great tip thanks. Should've tried that one, would've been easier than what I ended up doing. Got fed up of the ramps moving, more so when you reverse with a FWD car. I ended up rawl bolting a 2 x 6 batton to the garage floor, then used 2 lengths of 4 x 6 against the batton to the back of the ramp. Had to use a couple of bits wood as a Persimmon garage is not much good for anything. Would have to crawl under the car to get my tools, could never get past the car if it was in the garage doorway.

Still don't like using ramps, but they are secure with this method. Never wanted to get under a car that is only supported by axle stands.

 

[figbat]

Another tip, tie some rope around the bottom of the ramp, take the other end and place it just in front and under the back tire, then when you move forward the weight of the car on the rope stops the ramp from moving. It is amazing the things I have picked up after over fifty four years in the motor trade fifty of those running my own businesses.

I have a couple of small pieces of carpet I fold over the bottom rung for the same reason.

 

[DaveReading]

I have a couple of small pieces of carpet I fold over the bottom rung for the same reason.

Though not quite so effective, as once the front wheels are on the ramp there's no restraining force.