Car D.I.Y.

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Fastpedaller

Über Member
Absolutely, I am suprised more people do not do the same.

Our one (that's failed) has been used regularly as we are aware of the need to do so. I don't know if I mentioned the car is 8 years old and on 92k, genuine as we had it from new.The air con is particularly useful in Winter to demist as stated above, so we shall miss that .......... unless ..... maybe the recirc function will be beneficial as (hopefully) no moisture will be coming in if it's used? And then once the engine has some warmth that can take over?
 

screenman

Legendary Member
Our one (that's failed) has been used regularly as we are aware of the need to do so. I don't know if I mentioned the car is 8 years old and on 92k, genuine as we had it from new.The air con is particularly useful in Winter to demist as stated above, so we shall miss that .......... unless ..... maybe the recirc function will be beneficial as (hopefully) no moisture will be coming in if it's used? And then once the engine has some warmth that can take over?

The recirc button without air conditioning will mist your car up in seconds. Think about the moisture in your breath. Hundreds of people go to garages daily in the winter, complaining their car is misted up. The honest garage will show them the button they have wrongly pushed, while the less honest garage will charge them for fictitious work.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
The recirc button without air conditioning will mist your car up in seconds. Think about the moisture in your breath. Hundreds of people go to garages daily in the winter, complaining their car is misted up. The honest garage will show them the button they have wrongly pushed, while the less honest garage will charge them for fictitious work.

But if you recall, I suggested now the aircon is U/S that we leave the window open :laugh:
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
This bit of yours confused me.
"maybe the recirc function will be beneficial as (hopefully) no moisture will be coming in if it's used? And then once the engine has some warmth that can take over?"

You are correct. There will be moisture from our breath. If using recirc we need to either leave the window open or hold our breath.
Neither will be good in winter. I wish I knew how to fix aircon myself.
 

screenman

Legendary Member
You are correct. There will be moisture from our breath. If using recirc we need to either leave the window open or hold our breath.
Neither will be good in winter. I wish I knew how to fix aircon myself.

You could try using a gas canister from the likes of Halfrauds but I doubt it will do much use. Aircon is not really a DIY job, although changing most of the parts is not difficult, but the recharge etc required proffesional equipment.
 

Fastpedaller

Über Member
You could try using a gas canister from the likes of Halfrauds but I doubt it will do much use. Aircon is not really a DIY job, although changing most of the parts is not difficult, but the recharge etc required proffesional equipment.

It's finding the problem more than anything - I'll replace parts if I KNOW they are faulty, finding out what's wrong could be very expensive.
 
I’ve just had a wheel off the ’free Corsa’, as it’s had a slow puncture for a couple of years (given the (very low) mileage covered annually, it wasn’t an issue

I dumped it in the pond (no fish in it!), & held it down
There’s a carpet-tack in it
I’ve looked at it constantly for those past 2 years, but never seen anything (even when on hands & knees)

Still, it’s satisfied my curiosity that it’s the tyre & not a faulty wheel
IF we do insurance/get VED on it, it needs new tyres anyway, as they’re greying & cracking
Even worse, the cord seems to be showing!!!
(original set at 12 year old)

IMG_0795.jpeg

EDIT @ 20:27
It's not the 'cord', I was going from a photograph that I took & it was the wetness shining
When the tyre was inspected a few minutes ago, with a torch, there's no 'cord' exposed
 
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Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Getting the car camping ready

Last week tackled a couple of advisories on the MOT.

First was a rear anti roll link bar essentially a ball joint on the L shape I wasn't looking forward to trying to undo.
That came off nicely and was done in 15mins.

The second was a rear control arm where the bushing had failed. The Axle end was in a really fiddly location allowing about 1/16th of a turn the Chassis end was a pain, the nut came off but the bolt had corroded into the metal sleeve on the bushing and would not come out, access was poor and despite heat, plus gas and lump hammers and drifts it wouldn't shift. I ended up having to use the angry grinder to cut the bolt. But also nicked the bracket which might need welding up.

The cut bolt was of course the only bolt / nut not in the kit, so then had to go out and buy one.

The new part had a bushing sleeve slightly wider than the original, so ended up having to grind that down too.

To cap the day off, just as I was taking the tools away I dropped one and put a small cut in the boot of the ball joint on the new part. So it'll need changing again soon. I'm going to do it before winder to avoid dealing with it seizing up again as the new part should last the remaining life of the car.


Swear words were uttered....


Next Job.... Tow Bar.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Spurred on by the recent successes, and imminent need to use, I decided to fit the towbar which had eventually arrived after I inadvertantly ordered it from Milan instead of Manchester.

Unwrapping found it to be the correct type, but very heavy.
Under the car i found that the was the requisite captive bolts in the chassis, but the idea of putting caps in them to stop them fouling up was a step too far for the manufacturers.
Never the less everything seemed to fit where it should and of course fouled access. Two small cuts were needed to a plastic undertray and a back box heat shield.

The plastic I will refit once I am satisfied all is well, the exhaust heat shield disintegrated and the securing studs sheared off. A decision will need to be make if I look at rebuilding the old one or acquiring a less tattered version.

3 studs also snapped off the rear bumper slam panel that perhaps didn't need to come off, so they needed grinding off and drilling out too!

Anyhow all was well with 3 of the 4 chassis bolts being persuaded in one reluctantly, the 4th and thankfully most accessible would not start in the hole/thread. Handily the pretty vague instructions listed the thread as being M12 1.25pitch. I could of course locate taps with every pitch but 1.25, so ended having to buy one. I am not entirely sure that I cleaned the original thread as intended or cut a new one, but a bolt was eventually located in the hole and tightened with a 2ft breaker bar - so its secure and not spinning in the hole. Having the tap to hand i used it to clean up the other grotty thread.

Then on to the electricals which to my surprise was easier than I expected, once I had traced the cables back to function. Only the LHS indicator needed lengthening and the interior trim wasn't too much of a nightmare to refit. I had no perm live in the boot, so ended up taking a feed from the boot cigarette lighter socket which comes on with the ignition. This means I get a "pip pip pip" from the relay box when I put the ignition on. A perm live to the boot has been on the to do list for a while, but I haven't been able to face pushing a cable the full length of the car.

1721857577771.png


1721857632762.png

^^^^Only one Side loosely attached at that point - hence the slant!

Only lost 4 plastic trim bungs!


Just need to get a trailer now - Its not like we go away in a week or anything!
 
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johnnyb47

Guru
Location
Wales
I used some Silicone Grease on all the rubber seals to get them nice supple and waterproof on my convertible car on Tuesday.
We had a bit of rain on Wednesday and to my delight there was no more leaks plus all the creaking from the folding metal lid had been eliminated...... Success 😀
I was suppised at expensive Silicone Grease is.
£10 for a tube the size of a tooth paste tube.
Worth the money though as it's done the job
 
OP
OP
Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
I used some Silicone Grease on all the rubber seals to get them nice supple and waterproof on my convertible car on Tuesday.
We had a bit of rain on Wednesday and to my delight there was no more leaks plus all the creaking from the folding metal lid had been eliminated...... Success 😀
I was suppised at expensive Silicone Grease is.
£10 for a tube the size of a tooth paste tube.
Worth the money though as it's done the job

I use Gummi Pflege.
 
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